The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

114
Routes in archive
Hybrid
Hybrid - Mur de Pisciadù
M8+, WI6
Interesting modern mixed climb to the left of the historic summer route Schwarze Wand and, in winter, the Mur de Pisciadù Eisfall.
Il Cigno Nero
Il Cigno Nero - Cima Falkner
5+, M7, 40°
Cigno Nero, the black swan, climbs a logical line up the ice of the north-east face of Cima Falkner in the heart of the Brenta Dolomites.
Il regalo della Befana
Il regalo della Befana - Santo Stefano di Cadore
II/4
Interesting and fun drip at the start of Val Grande in a quiet setting. Although the route was climbed in two pitches, we suggest the second pitch is split into two.
Illuminati
Illuminati - Vallunga
M11+/WI 6+
On 24 January 2006 Albert Leichtfried made the first ascent of "Illuminati", a 5 pitch mixed outing located in Val Lunga, close to Selva Gardena, N. Italy. The 30 year old Austrian has put forward the impressive grade M11+/WI 6+.Leichtfried...
Iron Man
Iron Man - Torre Murfrëit
V+, M7+, WI5+
Beautiful modern mixed route on Torre Murfrëit close to Passo Gardena in the Sella group, established by Santiago Padrós and Giovanni Andriano over two days, on 17 and 19 December 2019. According to Padròs this is one of the most...
Kalipe
Kalipe - Peitlerkofel
M6
Kalipe is a sustained mixed climb up the North Face of Peitlerkofel with a crux pitch that is difficult to protect. Five pitons were placed, only at the belays.
Kofler
Kofler
II/4+
Nice icefall, one of the best in the area, not to be missed. Even if it faces SW the icefall receives the sun at the start of February only.
L'Onda di Hokusai
L'Onda di Hokusai - Molignon di Dentro 2852m
WI5+, 60°, M3
The Molignon peak dominates the upper Duron valley with its imposing face that marks the southern end of the Seiser Alm. The route takes a line up the eastern flank and finished immediately to the right of the Molignon di...
La Bella
La Bella - Cima del Focobon
AI5+, 90°
Alpine outing up the north face of Focobon, offering great but somewhat severe climbing due to the poor pro. La Bestia is technically harder but offers more pro with cams on the rock. Both La Bella and La Bestia ascend...
La Bestia
La Bestia - Cima del Focobon
AI5+, 90°
Alpine outing up the north face of Focobon, offering great but somewhat severe climbing due to the poor pro. La Bestia is technically harder but offers more pro with cams on the rock. Both La Bella and La Bestia ascend...
La bizzarra
La bizzarra - Col Pelous
WI 6+/M 8+
A beautiful and psychologically demanding outing as many sections require trad gear for protection... This latest addition to the valley, during a Mountain Guide training course in 2011, offers difficult ice and delicate mixed climbing!
La Bruixa
La Bruixa - La Palazza
WI6, M6?
Cascata di ghiaccio sulla parete denominata La Palazza, in Val Zemola, Dolomiti d'Oltrepiave, salita il 05/01/2017 da Santiago Padrós e Luca Vallata. 
La chula
La chula - Val Travenanzes
WI 5+
Beautiful and by no means easy ice climb with a slightly overhanging exit.
La Concha de la lora
La Concha de la lora - Crozzon di Val d'Agola
WI4+M7 R4 IV
Top-class line on the north-east face of Crozzon di Val d'Agola, with beautiful climbing, at times quite difficult and exposed.
La Penultima
La Penultima - Elferkofel
WI4 M5+
Beautiful and varied mixed climb on Elferkofel / Cima Undici in the Sexten Dolomites. The route climbs an obvious up to the Cengia degli Alpini ledge and ends here.  Thos ewishing to repat the route are advised to take cams,...
La Piccola Sgualdrina
La Piccola Sgualdrina - Val Pramper - Val di Zoldo
M8 WI5 III
La Piccola Sgualdrina is a mixed climb in Val Pramper, Dolomites, immediately next to the famous icefall Gran Dama. "All things considered I believe this route become a classic mixed outing, never trivial but not too difficult either. The line...


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