The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

82
Routes in archive
Iron Man
Iron Man - Torre Murfrëit
V+, M7+, WI5+
Beautiful modern mixed route on Torre Murfrëit close to Passo Gardena in the Sella group, established by Santiago Padrós and Giovanni Andriano over two days, on 17 and 19 December 2019. According to Padròs this is one of the most...
Kalipe
Kalipe - Peitlerkofel
M6
Kalipe is a sustained mixed climb up the North Face of Peitlerkofel with a crux pitch that is difficult to protect. Five pitons were placed, only at the belays.
Kofler
Kofler
II/4+
Nice icefall, one of the best in the area, not to be missed. Even if it faces SW the icefall receives the sun at the start of February only.
L'Onda di Hokusai
L'Onda di Hokusai - Molignon di Dentro 2852m
WI5+, 60°, M3
The Molignon peak dominates the upper Duron valley with its imposing face that marks the southern end of the Seiser Alm. The route takes a line up the eastern flank and finished immediately to the right of the Molignon di...
La bizzarra
La bizzarra - Col Pelous
WI 6+/M 8+
A beautiful and psychologically demanding outing as many sections require trad gear for protection... This latest addition to the valley, during a Mountain Guide training course in 2011, offers difficult ice and delicate mixed climbing!
La Concha de la lora
La Concha de la lora - Crozzon di Val d'Agola
WI4+M7 R4 IV
Top-class line on the north-east face of Crozzon di Val d'Agola, with beautiful climbing, at times quite difficult and exposed.
La farfalla tigre
La farfalla tigre - Cima Bifora
WI4 M6
A new route that came about almost by chance, from a sudden glance at the face immediately to our left as we approached the classic ice gullies on Monte Nero. Much to our delight the route developed, one pitch after...
La Penultima
La Penultima - Elferkofel
WI4 M5+
Beautiful and varied mixed climb on Elferkofel / Cima Undici in the Sexten Dolomites. The route climbs an obvious up to the Cengia degli Alpini ledge and ends here.  Thos ewishing to repat the route are advised to take cams,...
La Stangata
La Stangata
5+
Beautiful icefall that climbs two distinct sections, first ascended by the Mountain Guides Patrick Ghezzi and Alessandro Lucchi on 5/2/2012 and repeated a few days later by Fabio Salvadei and Tommaso Andreolli.
La Strega + Evolution
La Strega + Evolution - Vallunga, Selva di Val Gardena
WI 5+ M9+
A really beautiful route to the right of La Piovra that offers some difficult mixed climbing. Something for experts. The first pitches that lead to the roof were climbed for the first time in 1992 by the brothers Cristoforo and...
Last Minute
Last Minute - Rienztal
WI 6
Last Minute high up in Rienztal is a slender drip exposed to the sun. All pegs used during the first ascent were left in-situ.
Leben ist jetzt
Leben ist jetzt
IV / M7+ / ice 80/90 degrees
The first pitch starts 10m to the left of the route "Pustertaler - Halbgefrohrenes". The pegs are clearly visible on this first section, and the first belay is shared with "Pustertaler - Halbgefrohrenes". The second pitch climbs left above the...
MFG
MFG - Rastentalfall
M9, WI6
The mixed climb MFG is located on the Rastentalfall, to the left of the classic "Crazy Diamond". The outing is a beautiful mixed climb that ascends, via a series of good hooks, thin cracks and hanging ice daggers.
No Country for Old Men
No Country for Old Men - Koflerbach
M9 / WI5
Demanding mixed climb immediately to the left of Räuber Hotzenplotz and therefore to the left of the famous icefall Koflerbach close to Sand in Taufers. Pitches 3 and 4 offer some challenging mixed climbing past thin ice. The crux on...
Nunca con prisa, siempre con gana
Nunca con prisa, siempre con gana - Castello di Vallesinella
M9 WI5+
An incredible line up Castello di Vallesinella in the Brenta Dolomites, on absolutely amazing rock. Logical, elegant and short. The route follows a crack that takes plenty of pro and which allowed us to make the first ascent onsight.
Once in a lifetime
Once in a lifetime - Col Turont
WI6+, M8
Spectacular ice climb located opposite Jumbo Jet in Val de Lietres, Dolomitesi The route is also protected with bolts and pegs.


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