Blede alla riscossa - Piccolo Lagazuoi
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Francesco Tremolada, Mountain Guide
1 / 5
Blede alla riscossa
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Siro Cannarella & Gianpaolo Rosada, 09/2004
By
Francesco Tremolada, Mountain Guide
Orientation
West
Height
360m
Difficulty
5+
Route
A great little route up good rock, well protected, which climbs the West Face of Piccolo Lagazuoi directly above the museum "Forte Tre Sassi". All the belays are equipped with bolts and the hardest sections along the routes are bolt-protected, too.
Getting there
Reach Passo Valparola from the Agordo valley, Alta Badia or from Cortina by driving up the SR 48. Access
Park by the museum "Forte Tre Sassi" and ascend diagonally from the right towards the left to reach the base of the wall and the obvious black streaks (40 minutes). The route starts at the base of left-hand streak (bolts clearly visible from below). Itinerary
P1: 5+, 35m
P2: 5, 55m
P3: 1, 50m
P4: 4, 40m
P5: 5, 55m
P6: 4, 45m
P7: 5, 50m
P8: 4, 25m Descent
Descend on foot, first south towards the summit, then right to follow the path used by the Austrians during the First World War to reach the Fort. Gear
55m rope, 10 quickdraws, slings and camming devices. Notes
Grade: max 5+ (the first pitch is the hardest), predominantly grade 4 with some grade 5 sections. Superb rock on the first two pitches, then good but needs some cleaning.
Reach Passo Valparola from the Agordo valley, Alta Badia or from Cortina by driving up the SR 48. Access
Park by the museum "Forte Tre Sassi" and ascend diagonally from the right towards the left to reach the base of the wall and the obvious black streaks (40 minutes). The route starts at the base of left-hand streak (bolts clearly visible from below). Itinerary
P1: 5+, 35m
P2: 5, 55m
P3: 1, 50m
P4: 4, 40m
P5: 5, 55m
P6: 4, 45m
P7: 5, 50m
P8: 4, 25m Descent
Descend on foot, first south towards the summit, then right to follow the path used by the Austrians during the First World War to reach the Fort. Gear
55m rope, 10 quickdraws, slings and camming devices. Notes
Grade: max 5+ (the first pitch is the hardest), predominantly grade 4 with some grade 5 sections. Superb rock on the first two pitches, then good but needs some cleaning.
Comments
30/08/2012 David Bogyo
The first two pitch is awesome, but the rest is horror - except chimney pitch 5, which was the crux (maybe VI-) for me. The second half of the sentence "Superb rock on the first two pitches then good but needs some cleaning." is not true, I think because of the line in chimneys, ledges etc it will never cleaned because of down running water.
Only people who like loose rock ;)
18/08/2011 renzo Bragantini
Fatta ai primi di agosto 2011 con Piero Pagliani. Belli solo i primi due/tre tiri. Poi pure il più attento fatica a evitare che la corda butti giù sassi anche di grosse dimensioni. Buone le soste e adeguatamente protetta, ma anche in alto la roccia non è un granché. La sconsiglio.
05/08/2011 tommaso regesta
fatta il 3/08/2011 con Luca e alessandro. Stupendi i primi due tiri, il resto un pò discontinuo con roccia cosi cosi specie nel penultimo tiro. soste ottime.in via dietro di noi il mitico Pierino Radin!!!!
Beauty
First ascent
Siro Cannarella & Gianpaolo Rosada, 09/2004
By
Francesco Tremolada, Mountain Guide
Orientation
West
Height
360m
Difficulty
5+
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
