19 News found
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from...
25/04/2023 - Alpinism
Big new mixed climb on Mount Morrison, the Eiger of the Sierra, by Jack Cramer, Tad McCrea, Vitaliy Musienko On 14 and 15 of April 2023 Jack Cramer, Tad McCrea, Vitaliy Musienko made the first ascent of Troll Toll (600m, M5) on the ENE Face of Mount Morrison in California, USA. Located in the Sherwin Range of the Sierra...
29/07/2022 - Alpinism
New climb on Jirishanca in Peru by Alik Berg, Quentin Roberts Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts have established a new route on Nevado Jirishanca (6094m) in Peru. The complex line is called Reino Hongo and graded 5.8/90°/M7.
09/09/2019 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Aleš Česen, Tom Livingstone, Luka Stražar ascents honoured by Piolets d’Or 2019 The solo ascent of Lupghar Sar West carried out by Hansjörg Auer, the solo ascent of Lunag Ri carried out by David Lama and the ascent of Latok 1 completed by Aleš Česen, Tom Livingstone and Luka Stražar are the...
11/10/2017 - Alpinism
Farewell Hayden Kennedy and Inge Perkins, an indescribable tragedy for alpinism 27-year-old Hayden Kennedy and his girlfriend Inge Perkins have lost their lives. Kennedy was considered one of the leading climbers of his generation.
19/03/2017 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre - David Lama, Peter Ortner in A Snowball's Chance in Hell The entire film A Snowball's Chance in Hell, featuring Austrian alpinists David Lama and Peter Ortner making the first free ascent of the Compressor route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia, carried out in January 2012.
09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine...
16/02/2016 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre SE Ridge Compressor Route: second free ascent. Interview with Mikey Schaefer Interview with American alpinist Mikey Schaefer who, together with Andrew Rothner and Josh Wharton, carried out the second free ascent of the Southeast Ridge Compressor Route on Cerro Torre in Patagonia from 4 to 6 February 2016. The first free...
20/02/2015 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2015 and the big list of 58 climbs 58 ascents carried out in 2014 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the most prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 9 - 12 April, 2015 at Courmayeur and Chamonix, at the foot of...
13/06/2014 - Climbing
Tommy Caldwell, Sonnie Trotter and Josh Wharton add new route to Sicily's Monte Monaco On Monte Monaco at San Vito Lo Capo in Sicily Tommy Caldwell, Sonnie Trotter and Josh Wharton have made the first ascent of the new climb You Cannoli Die Once (7c/+, 6 pitches).
20/09/2013 - Interviews
Great Trango Tower: Raganowicz and Tomaszewski climb Bushido Interview with Polish alpinist Marek Raganowicz who talks about the new big wall Bushido (VII– A4 VII+), established together with Marcin Tomaszewski up Great Trango Tower, Karakorum, Pakistan.
11/04/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2013, the videos of the ascents The videos of the six ascents which all won the 21st edition of the Piolet d'Or 2013: Kamet, Shiva, Muztagh Tower, Baitha Brakk (Ogre), Nanga Parbat and Kyashar. The videos were created for the award's celebration of the Piolets...
11/03/2013 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2013, the nominations for the 21st edition They come from France, Britain, Russia, the United States and Japan and all made beautiful and difficult climb up highest mountains in the world: the candidates for the 21st edition of the Piolet d'Or, the most prestigious international mountaineering award...
20/02/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre an impossible mountain, the petition in favour of the bolt chopping The petition, promoted by Rolando Garibotti, concerning the recent bolt chopping of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia by the Americans Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk.
20/01/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre, Kennedy and Kruk and the Compressor route by fair means On 17/01/2012 Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed the SE Ridge (the Compressor route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia) via a route "by fair means" with difficulties up to 5.11 A2. In descent the two removed a significant portion of the...
15/02/2011 - Alpinism
Coda, new route on Aguja Desmochada, Patagonia On 9-10 February 2011 Neil Kauffman and Josh Wharton established Coda (V 5.11+ AO) on Aguja Desmochada, Fitz Roy massif, Patagonia.
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