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Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Civetta, Dolomites
29/09/2022 - Alpinism
Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Civetta, Dolomites
The report by 24-year-old mountain guide Janluca Kostner from Ortisei (Val Gardena, Italy) who between 13 and 14 September 2022 made the first rope-solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Mt. Civetta (Dolomites). Graded IX, the route on the North West Face of Punta Civetta was established between 2007 and 2008...
Colin Haley completes first winter solo of Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
26/09/2022 - Alpinism
Colin Haley completes first winter solo of Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley has made the first solo winter ascent of the classic Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
Filip Babicz climbs Mont Blanc’s Grand Capucin in just 49 minutes
25/09/2022 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz climbs Mont Blanc’s Grand Capucin in just 49 minutes
On 23/09/2022 Filip Babicz climbed Grand Capucin in the Mont Blanc massif in just 49 minutes solo and without a rope via the Swiss Route and O Sole Mio exit.
Tim Howell completes North Base paralpinism Project on 6 great North Faces of the Alps
21/09/2022 - Interviews
Tim Howell completes North Base paralpinism Project on 6 great North Faces of the Alps
British mountaineer Tim Howell has completed his ambitious North Base Project which aimed to climb and fly the six great North Faces of the Alps. Depending on the mountain, the 33-year-old Brit either made a wingsuit flight or BASE jump. The Eiger, Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile, Petit Dru,...
Jonas Hainz completes free solo ascent of Moulin Rouge on Dolomites Rotwand
14/09/2022 - Alpinism
Jonas Hainz completes free solo ascent of Moulin Rouge on Dolomites Rotwand
On 20/06/2022 South Tyrolean mountaineer Jonas Hainz made a free solo ascent of Moulin Rouge on Rotwand / Roda de Vael (2806m) on Rosengarten. This is one of the most important free solos in the Dolomites in recent years.
Fabian Buhl in Flight mode: disconnect to reconnect
10/09/2022 - Alpinism
Fabian Buhl in Flight mode: disconnect to reconnect
The video portrait, directed by Matteo Pavana and Marco Zanone, of Fabian Buhl. In order to find his own way, the German alpinist has decided to take a step back so as to make a step forward.
Alexander Huber frees Ramayana on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
06/09/2022 - Climbing
Alexander Huber frees Ramayana on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
On the 18th of July German climber Alexander Huber made the first free ascent of Ramayana, a 6-pitch 8b+ on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria.
Remembering Wolfgang Güllich, one of greatest climbers of all times
31/08/2022 - Climbing
Remembering Wolfgang Güllich, one of greatest climbers of all times
30 years ago today German climbing legend Wolfgang Güllich died in a car crash aged just 31. He established the world’s first 8b, the world’s first 8b+, the world’s first 8c and, with Action Directe in Frankenjura, the world’s first 9a. A truly visionary figure, his influence extends well beyond...
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
25/08/2022 - Alpinism
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
In the Ak-Su Valley in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan, Italian alpinists Federica Mingolla and Niccolò Bartoli have made the first ascent of Vivere la vita, an 800m big wall with difficulties up to on the South Buttress of Pik Slesova, also referred to as Peak 3850m.
Seb Bouin frees Nordic Marathon, 130m 9b/+ at Flatanger
26/07/2022 - Climbing
Seb Bouin frees Nordic Marathon, 130m 9b/+ at Flatanger
French climber Sébastien Bouin has made the first ascent of Nordic Marathon at the Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger, Norway. The 130m line is a combination of different routes and is graded 9b/+
Nicolas Hojac, Adrian Zurbrügg race across Eiger, Mönch & Jungfrau skyline in 13 hours
21/07/2022 - Alpinism
Nicolas Hojac, Adrian Zurbrügg race across Eiger, Mönch & Jungfrau skyline in 13 hours
On 12 July Swiss mountaineers Nicolas Hojac and Adrian Zurbrügg made a swift enchainment of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, climbing the classic skyline in 13 hours, 8 minutes and 49 seconds.
Alex Honnold, Cedar Wright and the 2014 free solo of El Sendero Luminoso
19/07/2022 - Climbing
Alex Honnold, Cedar Wright and the 2014 free solo of El Sendero Luminoso
Cedar Wright has released support footage of Alex Honnold's 2014 free solo of El Sendero Luminoso (7b+/c, 500m) on El Toro, Potrero Chico, Mexico.
Simon Gietl completes rope-solo first ascent of stunning Dolomites Peitlerkofel NW Pillar Arête
17/07/2022 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl completes rope-solo first ascent of stunning Dolomites Peitlerkofel NW Pillar Arête
Last week Simon Gietl completed a new route up the Arête of the North-West Pillar of Peitlerkofel / Sass de Putia (2875m) in the Dolomites. The South Tyrolean mountaineer climbed alone and rope-solo and made one bivouac on the climb.
Pietro Radassao at Colle dell'Orso frees Homo Vitruvianus 8c+
14/07/2022 - Climbing
Pietro Radassao at Colle dell'Orso frees Homo Vitruvianus 8c+
At Colle dell'Orso close to Frosolone (Molise, Italy) Pietro Radassao has made the first ascent of Homo Vitruvianus 8c+.
Nanga Parbat Aosta Valley Express variation climbed by François Cazzanelli, Pietro Picco
27/06/2022 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat Aosta Valley Express variation climbed by François Cazzanelli, Pietro Picco
On the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Pietro Picco have added a difficult new variation start to the Kinshofer route. Called Valle d'Aosta Express, the 1400m addition breaches difficulties up to AI 90° M6 85°, and was climbed on 26 June.
Marc-Andrés Vision on Torre Egger in Patagonia
21/06/2022 - Alpinism
Marc-Andrés Vision on Torre Egger in Patagonia
The video by Brette Harrington documenting the first ascent of Marc-Andrés Vision, a climb on Torre Egger in Patagonia imagined by Marc-André Leclerc and completed in 2020 by Harrington, Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton.

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