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François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl speed up the Peutérey Integral, Mont Blanc
22/07/2019 - Alpinism
François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl speed up the Peutérey Integral, Mont Blanc
The two mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl have carried out an extremely fast ascent of the Peutérey Integral Ridge in the Mont Blanc massif in just 12 hours and 12 minutes. The round-trip back to the starting point...
Camilla Bendazzoli at Arco climbs her first 8c
16/07/2019 - Climbing
Camilla Bendazzoli at Arco climbs her first 8c
At Narango above Lake Garda close to Arco, Italy, Camilla Bendazzoli has redpointed Cinque Uve. This is her first 8c sports climb.
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
12/07/2019 - Interviews
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
German rock climber Robert Leistner has made the first free ascent of Vertreibung der letzten Idealisten up the Nonnengärtner tower in the Elbsandstein massif in Germany. Graded 12a, or French 8c, this is now the most difficult climb in the...
Cima Grostè, new Brenta Dolomites rock climb by Francesco Salvaterra, Nicola Castagna
11/07/2019 - Climbing
Cima Grostè, new Brenta Dolomites rock climb by Francesco Salvaterra, Nicola Castagna
Francesco Salvaterra and Nicola Castagna have made the first ascent of Via Greta, a new multi-pitch rock climb up the South Face of Cima Grostè in the Brenta Dolomites.
Cima Grande di Lavaredo: Jacek Matuszek & Łukasz Dudek make their Premiere
28/06/2019 - Alpinism
Cima Grande di Lavaredo: Jacek Matuszek & Łukasz Dudek make their Premiere
Polish climbers Jacek Matuszek & Łukasz Dudek have made the first ascent of Premiere, a big new rock climb up the North Face of Cima Grande in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Dolomites, Italy.
King Cobra on Mount Barrill, big wall variation to Cobra Pillar in Alaska
20/06/2019 - Alpinism
King Cobra on Mount Barrill, big wall variation to Cobra Pillar in Alaska
Daniel Joll, Kim Ladiges, Alastair McDowell and John Price have made the first ascent of King Cobra (550m, 5.11), a 350m variation to the famous Cobra Pillar on the East Face of Mount Barrill (2332m) in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska.
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
14/06/2019 - Alpinism
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
In September 2019 the Polish mountaineer Krzysztof Wielicki will receive the Piolets d'Or Carrière 2019. In the past this prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington, Wojciech Kurtyka,...
Five first ascents in Alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson
07/06/2019 - Alpinism
Five first ascents in Alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson
Despite challenging conditions Simon Richardson and Mark Robson have made the first ascent of five hitherto unclimbed peaks in the Stikine Range in South-East Alaska, including Peak 7180, one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the region. Richardson reports.
Denis Trento and his exceptional spring ski mountaineering in Valle d'Aosta
05/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denis Trento and his exceptional spring ski mountaineering in Valle d'Aosta
Anomalous spring conditions across the Alps were exploited to the max by Denis Trento who managed to ski almost every day up in the Valle d’Aosta mountains. While “seeking the best conditions rather than famous descents”, Trento’s mountaineering always starts...
Bischofsmütze North Face, new mixed climb established by Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer, Hans Zlöbl
03/06/2019 - Alpinism
Bischofsmütze North Face, new mixed climb established by Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer, Hans Zlöbl
Mountaineering in East Tyrol: Austrian alpinists Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer and Hans Zlöbl have made the first ascent of Kitchen Window, a 'severe mixed climb' up the North Face of Bischofsmütze in Austria.
Aiguilles Marbrées: new mixed climb Mtbness in Mont Blanc massif
24/05/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguilles Marbrées: new mixed climb Mtbness in Mont Blanc massif
Ezio Marlier reports about Mtbness, a new mixed climb up Aiguilles Marbrées (3535 m) in the Mont Blanc massif, first ascended with Luigi Santini, Jonathan Bracey and David Horwood.
Cima Scarpacò NW Face, Dallavalle brothers complete demanding ski descent
Cima Scarpacò NW Face, Dallavalle brothers complete demanding ski descent
Luca Dallavalle reports about what is likely to be the first ski descent of the NW Face of Cima Scarpacò (3252m) in the Adamello - Presanella group, climbed and skied on 22/04/2019 with his brother Roberto Dallavalle.
Mezzalama 2019 ski mountaineering marathon postponed to Sunday 28 April
Mezzalama 2019 ski mountaineering marathon postponed to Sunday 28 April
The Mezzalama Trophy 2019 has been postponed due to adverse weather conditions. The legendary ski mountaineering competition on Monte Rosa will now take place on Sunday 28 April.
Zion Canyon new rock climb by Jeremy Collins and Jarod Sickler
23/04/2019 - Alpinism
Zion Canyon new rock climb by Jeremy Collins and Jarod Sickler
Jeremy Collins and Jarod Sickler have made the first ascent of Moonshadow, a big new climb to the right of the famous Moonlight Buttress in Zion, USA.
Remembering Hansjörg Auer. By Nicola Tondini
22/04/2019 - Alpinism
Remembering Hansjörg Auer. By Nicola Tondini
Italian alpinist Nicola Tondini remembers Hansjörg Auer, the great Austrian mountaineer who died last week in an avalanche in Canada, along with David Lama and Jess Roskelley.
Slovenians supreme in Russia, Janja Garnbret and Jernej Kruder win Bouldering World Cup in Moscow
15/04/2019 - Competitions
Slovenians supreme in Russia, Janja Garnbret and Jernej Kruder win Bouldering World Cup in Moscow
The second stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2019 took place in Moscow, Russia, last weekend and was won by the Slovenian climbers Janja Garnbret and Jernej Kruder. The first stage of the Speed World Cup 2019 was won on...

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