557 News found

Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder Faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, Ciavaldini had made the third...

Italian climber and new router Maurizio Oviglia once again focuses on the safety of climbing bolts and anchors on sport climbs in seaside environments and has launched a campaign to raise funds in order to re-bolt some marine crags in Sardinia with titanium bolts.

On Church Buttress at Bidean nam Bian in Glen Coe, Scotland, Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson have made the first ascent of New Age Raiders, an impressively steep 2-pitch winter climb graded IX 9.

Earlier this autumn alpinists Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer established two new mixed routes, Käse-Greiner and Nordwandrampe, on the north face of Großer Greiner in Austria’s Zillertal Alps.

On 29/11/2020 Simon Gietl and Aaron Durogati made the first ascent of a new 500m route on the hitherto unclimbed north face of Mount Rauchkofel in the South Tyrol, Italy. After the ascent, the two climbers paraglided back down to valley. Durogati reports about this latest paralpinism adventure.

Benjamin Lieber reports about two big new climbs ascended in Alaska’s Hayes Range: DeWilde Style (800m AI4+) up the SE Face of Peak 9,250ft with Alex Hansen and Longing For Light (700m AI5) on the NE Shoulder of Mount Moffit climbed above the Trident Glacier with Hansen and Austin Schmitz.

Italian mountaineer Leonardo Gheza reports about his solo ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney in the Mont Blanc massif on 6/08/2020. This might well be the first solo ascent in just a single day. In any case it was an amazing experience on one of the most famous faces...

At Céüse in France the German climber Alex Megos has made the first ascent of Bibliographie and suggested the grade 9c. This is now the most difficult sport climb in France and only the second in the world this difficult.

In Sardinia the Polish rock climber Aleksandra Taistra has repeated two difficult multi-pitches: Unchinos at Badde Pentumas and Amico Fragile at Monte Donneneittu.

Swiss climber Cédric Lachat has repeated Wogü, the 8c alpine sports climb established by Beat Kammerlander and freed in 2008 by Adam Ondra in Rätikon, Switzerland.

How does our love for the mountains affect the climate? And what can we do to change this process? Germany's Lena Müller, who is currently doing a PhD on the effects of climate change at the University of Innsbruck and recently repeated the E9 Prinzip Hoffnung at Bürs, shares her...

The report by Kirill Belotserkovskiy about his new route up the west face of peak Trud in Kazakhstan climbed with Grisha Chsukin

Giovanni Spitale and Angela Bonato discuss their Hike & fly; powered only by their own means they reach point where to liftoff and fly their paragliders. An eco-friendly and sensible way to enjoy the mountains in these particular times. By Giovanni Spitale.

Aaron Durogati reports about his Monday 3 June ascent with Bruno Mottini of the North Face of Ortler and the NE Face of Königspitze / Gran Zebrù. The duo enchained the mountains using a paraglider and needed 9.5 hours for the linkup.

At the crag Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco, Italy, Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of Beginning 9a/+.

Two difficult new sport climbs in the Zillertal, Austria: Walk the Line 9a freed by Jakob Schubert at Monkey Island and Der Weg zur Quelle 8c+ freed by Jorg Verhoeven at Schwarze Wand.