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Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer
24/10/2019 - Alpinism
Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer
30 years today: on 24 October 1989, Polish mountaineer Jerzy Kukuczka died while attempting Lhotse. Kukuczka was the second man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders after Reinhold Messner and an absolute legend of high altitude Himalayan mountaineering.
Orco Valley climbing: two classic rock climbs up Sergent
22/10/2019 - Alpinism
Orco Valley climbing: two classic rock climbs up Sergent
Italian mountain guide Umberto Bado introduces two absolute classic rock climbs in Valle dell'Orco: Fessura della Disperazione and Via Locatelli.
Eiger North Face Meltdown established rope solo by Robert Jasper
02/10/2019 - Alpinism
Eiger North Face Meltdown established rope solo by Robert Jasper
German mountain guide Robert Jasper has made a rope solo first ascent of Meltdown up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland.
New Tre Cime di Lavaredo Dolomites rock climb by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Nicola Tondini
01/10/2019 - Alpinism
New Tre Cime di Lavaredo Dolomites rock climb by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Nicola Tondini
Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini and Nicola Tondini have made the first ascent of big new multi-pitch rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Cédric Lachat fast as lightning up Zahir in Wenden
25/09/2019 - Climbing
Cédric Lachat fast as lightning up Zahir in Wenden
In just a single session Swiss climber Cédric Lachat managed to climb Zahir, the 8b+ multi-pitch route up the compact Wendenstöcke limestone in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland.
Cédric Lachat fires first one day ascent of Fly in Lauterbrunnental
13/09/2019 - Climbing
Cédric Lachat fires first one day ascent of Fly in Lauterbrunnental
Swissman Cédric Lachat, climbing with Tobias Suter, has made the first repeat and first one day ascent of Fly, the difficult multi-pitch climb in Lauterbrunnental, Switzerland.
Roger Schaeli climbs the Eiger 50 times
04/09/2019 - Alpinism
Roger Schaeli climbs the Eiger 50 times
Swiss mountaineer Roger Schäli has celebrated his 50th complete ascent of the Eiger in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland.
Roger Schaeli, Stephan Siegrist establish Silberrücken up Jungfrau in Switzerland
17/07/2019 - Alpinism
Roger Schaeli, Stephan Siegrist establish Silberrücken up Jungfrau in Switzerland
Swiss alpinists Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli have made the first ascent of Silberrücken up Rotbrätt on the West Face of Jungfrau. With difficulties up to 8a+, all pitches have been freed individually and a one-day redpoint is still outstanding.
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
12/07/2019 - Interviews
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
German rock climber Robert Leistner has made the first free ascent of Vertreibung der letzten Idealisten up the Nonnengärtner tower in the Elbsandstein massif in Germany. Graded 12a, or French 8c, this is now the most difficult climb in the...
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the...
Bernd Zangerl frees top boulder problem in Valle dell’Orco
25/06/2019 - Climbing
Bernd Zangerl frees top boulder problem in Valle dell’Orco
In Valle Orco, Italy, Austrian climber Bernd Zangerl has made the first ascent of the sitdown start to I Coloniali, describing it as 'one of the best boulders I've ever climbed.'
Angela Eiter powers through Pure Dreaming at Massone, Arco
10/06/2019 - Climbing
Angela Eiter powers through Pure Dreaming at Massone, Arco
Austrian rock climber Angela Eiter reports about her recent redpoint of Pure Dreaming, a 9a sports climb freed by Adam Ondra at Massone, Arco, Italy.
Norway Lofoten Islands new rock climbs
09/06/2019 - Alpinism
Norway Lofoten Islands new rock climbs
In May 2019 Bernat Bilarrassa, Gerber Cucurell and Jordi Esteve established two new rock climbs in the Kirkefjord area of the Lofoten Islands in Norway
Denis Trento and his exceptional spring ski mountaineering in Valle d'Aosta
05/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denis Trento and his exceptional spring ski mountaineering in Valle d'Aosta
Anomalous spring conditions across the Alps were exploited to the max by Denis Trento who managed to ski almost every day up in the Valle d’Aosta mountains. While “seeking the best conditions rather than famous descents”, Trento’s mountaineering always starts...
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Saro Costa reports about the first ski descent of the ENE Face of Piz Morteratsch (3752m) in the Bernina range in Switzerland, climbed and skied via the Zippert / Kohler route on 23/05/2019 together with Davide Terraneo and Mattia Varchetti.
Cheeky Monkeys added to Coulm d’Mez in Switzerland by Marco Majori and Davide Terraneo
24/03/2019 - Alpinism
Cheeky Monkeys added to Coulm d’Mez in Switzerland by Marco Majori and Davide Terraneo
On the east face of Coulm d'Mez in Switzerland Marco Majori and Davide Terraneo have climbed Cheeky Monkeys, a possible new icefall in the Bernina group.