Cheeky Monkeys added to Coulm d’Mez in Switzerland by Marco Majori and Davide Terraneo

On the east face of Coulm d’Mez, a 2983m peak in the Bernina group in the Swiss Alps, Italian mountaineers Marco Majori and Davide Terraneo ascended a mixed line that could well have been previously unclimbed. Called Cheeky Monkeys, the route is on the lefthand side of the Roseg Valley and is reached after a circa 2-hour approach from Pontresina. Despite being clearly visibile, all initial research indicates it may have never been climbed before.

Majori, an Italian mountain guide and member o Mountain Military Squad,,explained: "The got the idea one day while ski mountaineering up in the valley. I was blown away by the beautiful face, the lines simply crying out to be climbed. Having verified that the face isn’t inside the Swiss park, as soon as my climbing partner was free and conditions were safe enough, I set off with Davide. Who better than this steep skier, who’s considering becoming a guide and who asked me to give him a ring next time I wanted to climb some ice. Not bad for one of his first times out ice climbing I’d say!

It’s impossible to remain indifferent to this face. A beautiful icefall, climbed with a friend and extreme skiing veteran. A day crowned with the first ascent of the queen line of the face. Two impertinent monkeys on the only section of the valley outside the borders of the Swiss Park.

TOPO: Cheeky Monkeys, Coulm d’Mez, Switzerland