6782 News found

03/12/2020 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites Campanile Basso West Couloir climbed by Francesco Salvaterra, Piero Onorati A deep couloir is located between the west face of Torrione Comici and the shoulder of Campanile Basso. Uninviting in summer, this gully is an extremely interesting winter. climb. Mountain guide Francesco Salvaterra reports about his 15 November 2020 ascent with Piero Onorati.

02/12/2020 - Climbing
Bernd Zangerl explores his limits on Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco Austrian boulderer Bernd Zangerl has made the first ascent of a difficult crack called Grenzenlos in Valle Orco, Italy. Protected with a pecker, it is a mix between a trad climb and a highball.

30/11/2020 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla frees Angels and Demons in Valle Orco On Caporal in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, Federica Mingolla has made the first free ascent of 'Angels and Demons', the multi-pitch rock climb started by Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina 15 years ago Mingolla completed the route with Leonardo Gheza before freeing it with Simone Papalia. Her report, as well as...

28/11/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin makes first repeat of Fred Rouhling’s De l’autre Côté du Ciel French rock climber Seb Bouin has made the first repeat of another Fred Rouhling 1990’s testpiece, De l’autre Côté du Ciel at Les Eaux Claires.

27/11/2020 - Alpinism
Rosengarten Dolomites climb in memory of Andrea Concini Mountain guide Marco Bozzetta reports about the new multi-pitch rock climb established up Pala di Socorda (Dirupi di Larsec, Rosengarten group, Dolomites) with Giovanni Andriano. The new route is dedicated to Andrea Concini who perished last winter on the north face of Cima Brenta, and with whom Bozzetta had started...

26/11/2020 - Alpinism
Alaska's autumn nets two big new climbs in Hayes Range Benjamin Lieber reports about two big new climbs ascended in Alaska’s Hayes Range: DeWilde Style (800m AI4+) up the SE Face of Peak 9,250ft with Alex Hansen and Longing For Light (700m AI5) on the NE Shoulder of Mount Moffit climbed above the Trident Glacier with Hansen and Austin Schmitz.

26/11/2020 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi - The Way to Change The first three episodes produced by Stefano Ghisolfi and Sara Grippo documenting the Italian’s repeat of Change, the world’s first 9b+ located at Flatanger in Norway.

25/11/2020 - Competitions
Viktoriia Meshkova, Sascha Lehmann European Lead Champions 2020 In Moscow earlier today Viktoriia Meshkova from Russia and Sascha Lehmann from Switzerland won the 2020 European Lead Championship.

25/11/2020 - Alpinism
Dolomites Pale di San Lucano: big new climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth The South Tyrolean mountaineers Alex Walpoth, Titus Prinoth and Martin Dejori have made the first ascent of Guardiano dei Sogni on Terza Pala di San Lucano, Pale di San Lucano, Dolomites. This big, 1400m new route was established with three bivouacs.

24/11/2020 - Alpinism
24 hours of freedom on Sagwand in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, Sven Brand In mid-November 2020 Martin Feistl and Sven Brand in Valsertal, Austria, made the first ascent of 24 hours of freedom (300m, M6, WI 4, X) on the north face of Sagwand. This is a direct start to Rampenführe, the original line up the face, and shares a short section with...

23/11/2020 - Competitions
Viktoriia Meshkova & Jernej Kruder crowned European Boulder Champions 2020 In Moscow today Viktoriia Meshkova from Russia and Jernej Kruder from Slovenia won the 2020 European Bouldering Championship. Chloe Caulier and Sergei Luzhetskii won silver, Stasa Gejo and Nikolai Iarilovets bronze.

23/11/2020 - Climbing
Fred Rouhling's Akira finally repeated after 25 years by Sébastien Bouin, Lucien Martinez Akira, the famous sport climb established by Fred Rouhling in 1995, has finally been repeated for the first time by Sébastien Bouin and Lucien Martinez. According to the two young Frenchmen the route is a difficult 9a, and not 9b as suggested by Rouhling 25 years ago.

23/11/2020 - Climbing
Laura Rogora repeats The Bow 9a+ at Arco, Julia Chanourdie and Eva Hammelmüller send 8c+ Yesterday at Padaro in Arco, Italy, Laura Rogora claimed the first repeat of The Bow, a 9a+ established in July by Stefano Ghisolfi. Julia Chanourdie and Eva Hammelmüller for their part have both repeated 8c+.

22/11/2020 - Competitions
Ekaterina Barashchuk, Danyil Boldyrev crowned European Speed Champions in Moscow Ekaterina Barashchuk from Russia and Danyil Boldyrev from the Ukraine were crowned European Speed Champions in Moscow, Russia, yesterday after beating Elizaveta Ivanov and Lev Rudatskiy. The bronze medal was won by Iuliia Kaplina and Marcin Dzienski. Kaplina set a new Speed World Record in the qualification round, stopping the...

22/11/2020 - Alpinism
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher free Magellan on Urlkopf in Austria Last August Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher made the first free ascent of Magellan, a 15-year-old project on Urlkopf close to Loferer Alm in Austria. Huber reports.

20/11/2020 - Climbing
Mélissa Le Nevé Action Directe trailer The trailer of the film that documents Melissa Le Nevé making the first female ascent of Action Directe, the world’s most revered 9a put up by Wolfgang Güllich in the Frankenjura
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