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Neil Gresham settles the Final Score, E10 at Iron Crag in UK
12/10/2020 - Climbing
Neil Gresham settles the Final Score, E10 at Iron Crag in UK
British rock climber Neil Gresham has established Final Score, an E10 trad climb at Iron Crag in England.
Two New Routes on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in Mont Blanc massif
09/10/2020 - Alpinism
Two New Routes on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in Mont Blanc massif
Simon Richardson reports about two new routes climbed on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in the Mont Blanc massif with Michael Rinn, the ephemeral mixed route Dinosaur Gully and the traditional multi-pitch rock climb Autumn Vibes.
Pol Roca Lopez adds Animalistic 8c Deep Water Solo to Mallorca
08/10/2020 - Climbing
Pol Roca Lopez adds Animalistic 8c Deep Water Solo to Mallorca
Spanish climber Pol Roca Lopez has made the first ascent of Animalistic, an 8c Deep Water Solo climb on the island of Mallorca.
New line on Mount Robson Emperor Face by Ethan Berman, Uisdean Hawthorn
07/10/2020 - Alpinism
New line on Mount Robson Emperor Face by Ethan Berman, Uisdean Hawthorn
Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn have made the first ascent of Running in the Shadows (VI AI5 M6 2000m), a big new mixed route up the famous Emperor Face of Mount Robson in the Canadian Rockies.
Climbing in Aladaglar, Turkey: Zorbey Aktuyun adds difficult trad route, completes Orient rope solo
06/10/2020 - Climbing
Climbing in Aladaglar, Turkey: Zorbey Aktuyun adds difficult trad route, completes Orient rope solo
Turkish rock climber Zorbey Aktuyun has made the first ascent of the 8a trad climb Kült at Pınarbaşı Canyon in the Aladağlar massif. Furthermore, on the striking Parmakkaya obelisk he has made a rope solo ascent of the classic Orient climb, established by Helmut Gargitter and Pauli Trenkwalder.
Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja meeting for Sports Festival in Italy
05/10/2020 - Alpinism
Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja meeting for Sports Festival in Italy
On Thursday 8 October the video will be aired documenting the encounter between Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja, two of the most famous mountaineers in the world, in the run-up to the Gazzetta dello Sport Festival which take place in Milan, Italy, from Friday 9 to Sunday 11 October.
Mathew Wright repeats Hubble, the Ben Moon masterpiece at Raven Tor
02/10/2020 - Interviews
Mathew Wright repeats Hubble, the Ben Moon masterpiece at Raven Tor
22-year old British rock climber Mathew Wright has made a rare ascent of Hubble, the Ben Moon masterpiece at Raven Tor. First ascended in 1990 and hailed as the world’s first 8c+, this is increasingly considered the world’s first 9a.
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
01/10/2020 - Alpinism
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
In September 2020 Georgian mountaineers made a 16-day trip to Svaneti in Central Caucasus and completed two new routes. The first, by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Levan Lashkarashvili, up the SW Face of Ailama (4,547m), the second by Badriashvili and Tepnadze up the NW Face of Ushba. Badriashvili reports.
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer
30/09/2020 - Alpinism
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer
Martin Sieberer reports about his repeats with Hannes Hohenwarter of Locker vom Hocker on Schüsselkar, Tschechenplatte in the Karwendel and Pumprisse in the Wilder Kaiser. Three classic limestone trad climbs in Tyrol, Austria, climbed one day after the next, and reached by train and bike.
Silvan Schüpbach, Matteo Della Bordella, Yannick Glatthard discover their Ying Yang on Gross Wellhorn
29/09/2020 - Alpinism
Silvan Schüpbach, Matteo Della Bordella, Yannick Glatthard discover their Ying Yang on Gross Wellhorn
On Gross Wellhorn in Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland the alpinists Silvan Schüpbach, Matteo Della Bordella and Yannick Glatthard have completed Ying Yang, a 450m multipitch climb graded 8b.
Remembering Kurt Albert, German climbing legend and father of the redpoint
28/09/2020 - Climbing
Remembering Kurt Albert, German climbing legend and father of the redpoint
Precisely 10 years ago German climbing legend Kurt Albert died at the age of 56. He invented the redpoint philosophy in Frankenjura in 1975, considered nowadays the standard for sport climbing worldwide, and established numerous important rock climbs and big walls across the globe.
Nebelgeist climbed by Simon Messner, Barbara Vigl on Schüsselkar, Austria
25/09/2020 - Alpinism
Nebelgeist climbed by Simon Messner, Barbara Vigl on Schüsselkar, Austria
Barbara Vigl reports about the first ascent of Nebelgeist, established this summer with Simon Messner on Söllerköpfe on Schüsselkar in Austria's Wetterstein mountain chain.
Simon Lorenzi sends Quoi de neuf classic roof bloc at Orsay in France
24/09/2020 - Climbing
Simon Lorenzi sends Quoi de neuf classic roof bloc at Orsay in France
The video of Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi on Quoi de neuf, an 8B + boulder problem at Orsay in France.
Alessandro Zeni claims Cani Morti Plus, 8c Dolomites multipitch
24/09/2020 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni claims Cani Morti Plus, 8c Dolomites multipitch
In combining the first two pitches of Cani Morti, the difficult multi-pitch first ascended in 2003 by Maurizio Zanolla Manolo and Riccardo Scarian on Campanile Basso di Lastei in the Pale di San Martino group, this summer Alessandro Zeni created Cani Morti Plus. Graded 8c, this is now one of...
Ang Rita Sherpa, Nepal's legendary Everest mountaineer, passes away
23/09/2020 - Alpinism
Ang Rita Sherpa, Nepal's legendary Everest mountaineer, passes away
Ang Rita Sherpa, the legendary Nepalese mountaineer nicknamed Snow Leopard and famous for having climbed Everest 10 times without the use of supplementary oxygen between 1983 and 1996, passed away yesterday at 72.
Adam Ondra climbing Beginning, Stefano Ghisolfi's endurance test at Arco
22/09/2020 - Climbing
Adam Ondra climbing Beginning, Stefano Ghisolfi's endurance test at Arco
The video of Adam Ondra making the first repeat, thanks to a cunning kneebar, of Beginning, the route freed in May 2020 by Stefano Ghisolfi at Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco, Italy.