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All or nothing. By Hector Silva Peralta
09/08/2019 - Alpinism
All or nothing. By Hector Silva Peralta
The first of two parts written by Hector Silva Peralta, a Chilean mountaineer who lived in Italy for 9 years before traveling to Chile, Canada and Alaska pursuing his dream: to become a mountaineer.
Laserz North Face, 80-year-old Lienz Dolomites Direttissima climbed by 70-year-old
05/08/2019 - Alpinism
Laserz North Face, 80-year-old Lienz Dolomites Direttissima climbed by 70-year-old
On 5 August 1939 the North Face of Laserz in the Lienz Dolomites, Austria was climbed by Gustl Thaler and Gerald Leinweber. Mountain guide Lisi Steurer reports about this historic first ascent 80 years ago and her recent repeat with...
Siebe Vanhee, David Leduc sweep up new climb in the Dolomites
28/07/2019 - Alpinism
Siebe Vanhee, David Leduc sweep up new climb in the Dolomites
Belgian climbers Siebe Vanhee and David Leduc have made the first ascent of Spazzacamino up the Terza Pala di San Lucano (Pale di San Lucano, Dolomites). The new multi-pitch climb was established ground-up, all free and with one bivouac on...
Roger Schaeli, Stephan Siegrist establish Silberrücken up Jungfrau in Switzerland
17/07/2019 - Alpinism
Roger Schaeli, Stephan Siegrist establish Silberrücken up Jungfrau in Switzerland
Swiss alpinists Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli have made the first ascent of Silberrücken up Rotbrätt on the West Face of Jungfrau. With difficulties up to 8a+, all pitches have been freed individually and a one-day redpoint is still outstanding.
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
12/07/2019 - Interviews
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
German rock climber Robert Leistner has made the first free ascent of Vertreibung der letzten Idealisten up the Nonnengärtner tower in the Elbsandstein massif in Germany. Graded 12a, or French 8c, this is now the most difficult climb in the...
Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles
27/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles
Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska established from 13 - 23 May...
Dave MacLeod coasts along The Golden Road in Scotland
18/06/2019 - Climbing
Dave MacLeod coasts along The Golden Road in Scotland
Scottish rock climber Dave MacLeod has made the first ascent of The Golden Road. Located at  Creag Mo on the Isle of Harris, Outer Hebrides, this trad climb checks in at E9.
Norway Lofoten Islands new rock climbs
09/06/2019 - Alpinism
Norway Lofoten Islands new rock climbs
In May 2019 Bernat Bilarrassa, Gerber Cucurell and Jordi Esteve established two new rock climbs in the Kirkefjord area of the Lofoten Islands in Norway
Bischofsmütze North Face, new mixed climb established by Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer, Hans Zlöbl
03/06/2019 - Alpinism
Bischofsmütze North Face, new mixed climb established by Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer, Hans Zlöbl
Mountaineering in East Tyrol: Austrian alpinists Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer and Hans Zlöbl have made the first ascent of Kitchen Window, a 'severe mixed climb' up the North Face of Bischofsmütze in Austria.
Steve McClure masters GreatNess Wall, huge E10 trad route at Nesscliffe
29/05/2019 - Climbing
Steve McClure masters GreatNess Wall, huge E10 trad route at Nesscliffe
Britain’s Steve McClure has made the first ascent of GreatNess Wall, the long-standing trad climbing project at Nesscliffe, England. Graded E10 7a, this checks in as one of the most difficult trad climbs in Great Britain.
Sense retorn, new climb up Mont-Rebei in Spain in memory of Hansjörg Auer
23/05/2019 - Alpinism
Sense retorn, new climb up Mont-Rebei in Spain in memory of Hansjörg Auer
On Pared de Catalunya at Mont Rebei in Spain Siebe Vanhee, Roger Molina and Jorge Solórzano have made the first ascent of Sense retorn - No turning back, a new rock climb dedicated to Hansjörg Auer.
Val di Mello: agreement reached for contested path for the disabled
17/05/2019 - Environment
Val di Mello: agreement reached for contested path for the disabled
After months of controversy concerning a planned expansion in Val di Mello, Italy, of an existing path that would make it accessible to wheelchairs and the disabled, an agreement has now been reached to protect the pristine valley. The peaceful...
Greenspit, the dream of a generation climbed in Valle Orco by Matteo della Bordella, Francesco Deiana
03/05/2019 - Climbing
Greenspit, the dream of a generation climbed in Valle Orco by Matteo della Bordella, Francesco Deiana
Matteo della Bordella and Francesco Deiana have both repeated Greenspit, one of the most famous crack climbs in the world in Valle Orco freed by Didier Berthod.
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
30/04/2019 - Interviews
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
Interview with Dmitry Golovchenko after the 18-day alpine style first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Jannu in the Nepalese Himalaya with Sergey Nilov. The two Russian mountaineers have called their climb Unfinished Sympathy (ED,...
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
26/04/2019 - Alpinism
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
Vinicius Todero reports about a 40-day climbing trip to southern Greenland with fellow Brazilian climber Marcos Costa in August 2018, during which the two repeated the famous Moby Dick on Ulamertorsuaq and, on the west face of the same mountain,...
Ice climbing in Val Pramper, Dolomites: new mixed route La Piccola Sgualdrina
18/04/2019 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Val Pramper, Dolomites: new mixed route La Piccola Sgualdrina
In January 2019 Francesco Fazzi and Matteo Pilon made the first ascent of La Piccola Sgualdrina (130m M8 WI5 III), a new mixed route up in Val Pramper, Dolomites, immediately next to the famous icefall Gran Dama. Fazzi, a mountain...

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