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Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
17/10/2018 - Alpinism
Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
Last Saturday a young man fell into a crevasse on the Col del Toula glacier (Mont Blanc). He is currently in hospital in Sallanches. The report and considerations of Ezio Marlier, a well-known alpinist and mountain guide from Valle d'Aosta who, together with Rifugio Torino hut warden and Mountain Guide...
Adam Ondra, Stefano Ghisolfi and the special sense of climbing at the Arco Champions Challenge
15/10/2018 - Events
Adam Ondra, Stefano Ghisolfi and the special sense of climbing at the Arco Champions Challenge
On Saturday 13 October 2018 Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi took part in the Champions Challenge at Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy). Open to all, this was a day with the two champion athletes, at the Climbing Stadium and at the crag Pueblo di Massone.
Piolets d’Or 2018 ceremony in Poland / Report and photos
12/10/2018 - Events
Piolets d’Or 2018 ceremony in Poland / Report and photos
Complete report and photographs of the Piolets d’Or 2018, the prestigious annual mountaineering award celebrated from 20 - 23 September at Ladek Zdrój in Poland.
Marmolada South Face climbed by Nikolaj Niebuhr, Danish mountaineer with hemiplegia
09/10/2018 - Alpinism
Marmolada South Face climbed by Nikolaj Niebuhr, Danish mountaineer with hemiplegia
Paraclimbing: Nikolaj Niebuhr has repeated the classic Bettega - Tomasson climb up the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. This ascent marks an important moment for the 35-year-old Dane who, following an operation for cerebral edema aged 8, has been partially paralysed in the righthand side of his body.
Lhotse first ski descent carried out by Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison
06/10/2018 - Alpinism
Lhotse first ski descent carried out by Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison
The Americans Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison have carried out the first integral ski descent of Lhotse (8516m) in the Himalaya, skiing directly off the summit down to Camp 2 at 6400 meters.
El Capitan Freerider: Alexander Huber Yosemite masterpiece celebrates 20th anniversary
05/10/2018 - Interviews
El Capitan Freerider: Alexander Huber Yosemite masterpiece celebrates 20th anniversary
Interview with German climber Alexander Huber 20 years after the first free ascent of Freerider, the famous big wall on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Grande Jorasses Japanese Couloir / Spaniards make rare repeat of central gem
04/10/2018 - Alpinism
Grande Jorasses Japanese Couloir / Spaniards make rare repeat of central gem
In the Mont Blanc massif the Spanish mountaineers Roger Cararach Soler, Marc Toralles and Bru Busom repeated the Japanese Couloir, the so-called 'Couloir central' that splits the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. The three repeated the climb in 24 hours, without bivouacs, and at the start of the season.
Wenden: Matteo Della Bordella completes Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck climb
03/10/2018 - Alpinism
Wenden: Matteo Della Bordella completes Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck climb
On Reissend Nollen in Switzerland’s Wendenstöcke Matteo Della Bordella, accompanied by Silvan Schüpbach, has made the first free ascent of 'Polenta con farina degli altri', a multi-pitch alpine climb that was started by Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck. Della Bordella completed the route with Dimitri Anghileri and Paolo Spreafico.
Chareze Ri North in India's Rangtik valley climbed by Italians
27/09/2018 - Alpinism
Chareze Ri North in India's Rangtik valley climbed by Italians
At the end of August 2018 Davide Limongi, Federico Martinelli, Enrico Mosetti, Federico Secchi and Luca Vallata climbed the East Ridge of Chareze Ri North in the Rangtik valley in the Zanskar area of India. Climbed alpine style with one bivouac, Jullay Temù (1000m, 70° ice, V+) reaches the north...
Significant rockfall on Trident du Tacul in Mont Blanc massif
26/09/2018 - Alpinism
Significant rockfall on Trident du Tacul in Mont Blanc massif
Last night significant rockfall took place on the Trident du Tacul, close to the Grand Capucin (Mont Blanc massif).
Trail running in Switzerland: 3 magnificent runs in the Swiss Alps
26/09/2018 - Trekking
Trail running in Switzerland: 3 magnificent runs in the Swiss Alps
Mountain running in Switzerland: Bettmeralp alongside the Aletsch Glacier, Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald and Monte Zucchero. Three magnificent trail running routes in the Swiss Alps taken from the guidebook 'Run the Alps Switzerland: 30 Must-Do Trails' produced by PatitucciPhoto and ALPSinsight.
Dolomites rock climbing: new outing above Val Gardena in Geisler group
25/09/2018 - Alpinism
Dolomites rock climbing: new outing above Val Gardena in Geisler group
This summer the South Tyrolean alpinists Aaron Moroder and Matteo Vinatzer completed Nuvole Bianche, a rock climb on Sas dla Porta to the east of Sas Rigais in the Geisler group, Dolomites.
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
24/09/2018 - Alpinism
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
Matterhorn climbing: on the mountain’s South Face the Italian François Cazzanelli has completed Diretta allo Scudo, a new rock climb he established with Roberto Ferraris, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre and Marco Farina.
Federica Mingolla adds new climb to Aiguille Croux in Mont Blanc massif
21/09/2018 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla adds new climb to Aiguille Croux in Mont Blanc massif
The report by Federica Mingolla who, together with Gabriele Carrara, made the first ascent of L'isola che non c’è on Aiguille Croux above Val Veny in the Mont Blanc massif.
La Sportiva 90th anniversary book wins best corporate monographs 2018
20/09/2018 - Book-press
La Sportiva 90th anniversary book wins best corporate monographs 2018
The book 'La Sportiva 90th, a history of alpinism, passion, innovation' has won the 2018 OMI award for the best corporate monograph went to La Sportiva for its innovative approach and storytelling capacity.
Corsica: summer rock climbing on the island’s best crags
19/09/2018 - Climbing
Corsica: summer rock climbing on the island’s best crags
Sport climbing in Corsica: the best summer crags to climb in the shade and avoid the sweltering heat. By Thierry Souchard and Maurizio Oviglia