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Chad new rock climbs in Ennedi desert
04/01/2011 - Alpinism
Chad new rock climbs in Ennedi desert
At the end of 2010 James Pearson, Mark Synnott, Renan Ozturk and Alex Honnold established a series of new routes in the Ennedi Range in Chad.
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
01/01/2011 - Climbing
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
On 28 December 2010 the American climber Cody Roth carried out the first repeat of Malvasia at Dvigrad in Croatia, the route bolted in 1987 and freed in 1988 by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla which no one had managed to repeat....
Cascata Per Leo, rare icefall on Sorapiss, Dolomites
29/12/2010 - Alpinism
Cascata Per Leo, rare icefall on Sorapiss, Dolomites
On 21 December Giuseppe 'Beppe' Ballico and Marco Milanese climbed "Cascata Per Leo" (270m, IV, WI 5+ XR) a beautiful icefall which rarely comes into condition on the SW Face of Croda Marcora (Sorapiss, Dolomites).
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
21/12/2010 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
Gabriele Moroni talks about Il frutto del diavolo 8c+/9a, his new route bolted and freed at Bus de Vela close to Arco, Italy.
Simon Gietl, Fairplay new route on Piz Boè, Dolomites
26/11/2010 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Fairplay new route on Piz Boè, Dolomites
South Tyrolean mountain guide Simon Gietl recounts his Dolomite summer which includes, amongst others, the first ascent of his new route, Fairplay 9+/10- on Piz Boè in the Dolomites.
Patagonia, Holzknecht and Moroder climb Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre
19/11/2010 - Alpinism
Patagonia, Holzknecht and Moroder climb Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre
In Patagonia Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder have climbed Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre in rapid alpine style. In the meantime Rolando Garibotti has removed 17 bolts from Cerro Torre placed last year by the team headed by David Lama.
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
07/11/2010 - Alpinism
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
The famous section climbed by Reinhold Messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola...
Atlante Perverso, new route in Taghia, Morocco
27/10/2010 - Climbing
Atlante Perverso, new route in Taghia, Morocco
From 20 - 24 September the Italians Giovanni Ongaro, Andrea Pavan and Davide Spini (Team Altroverso) established Atlante Perverso (350m, 8a max, 7b obl.) on the north face of Monte Oujad, Taghia, in the High Atlas mountain range in Morocco.
The Tor de Geants mountain race by Stevie Haston.
18/10/2010 - Competitions
The Tor de Geants mountain race by Stevie Haston.
Stevie Haston, alpinist, ice climber and snowboarder, tells about his experience of the first ever Tor de Geants, the incredible mountain marathon which covers 330km and 24,000 vertical meters, starting and finishing at Courmayeur and completing a circle around the...
Solidarity for the family of Walter Nones
13/10/2010 - Alpinism
Solidarity for the family of Walter Nones
An appeal for solidarity for the family of Walter Nones, first published on the internet site www.karlunterkircher.com.
Pakistan: new route in the Nangmah Valley
07/09/2010 - Alpinism
Pakistan: new route in the Nangmah Valley
Leopoldo Faria, Rui Rosado, Ana and Bruno Silva Gaspar from Portugal have established "Off-Dido" (7a+ 550m) on the Babar Wall in the Nangmah Valley in Pakistan.
Torre Egger Patagonia, first winter ascent by Siegrist, Arnold and Senf
10/08/2010 - Alpinism
Torre Egger Patagonia, first winter ascent by Siegrist, Arnold and Senf
On 03/08/2010 the alpinists Stephan Siegrist, Dani Arnold and Thomas Senf carried out the4 first winter ascent of Torre Egger (2685m), Patagonia.
Piccolo Lagazuoi, sport climbing in the Dolomites
09/08/2010 - Climbing
Piccolo Lagazuoi, sport climbing in the Dolomites
The Piccolo Lagazuoi crag in the Dolomites, 27 routes from 4b to 7b introduced by local activist and Mountain Guide Enrico Maioni.
The Devil’s Brew, new Greenland route for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
30/07/2010 - Alpinism
The Devil’s Brew, new Greenland route for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
From 12 to 22 July Nicolas Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto of the Greenland 2010 expedition established The Devil’s Brew (850m) on Seagull wall, Greenland.
Tingeling, new link-up on Blamann by Hansjörg Auer & Much Mayr
29/07/2010 - Climbing
Tingeling, new link-up on Blamann by Hansjörg Auer & Much Mayr
The Austrians Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have established Tingeling (400m 7c+), a new free enchainement up the massive granite Blamann tower. Due to prohibitive conditions the route still awaits its first continuous redpoint ascent.
Cassin Route, Walker Spur, Grandes Jorasses
28/07/2010 - Alpinism
Cassin Route, Walker Spur, Grandes Jorasses
The details of an immortal route: the Cassin route up the Walker Super on the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc) introduced by Mountain Guide Enrico Bonino who climbed the route last week with an (extremely strong) client, Max Lucco.

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