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Broad Peak and GI, winter ascents abandoned
21/03/2011 - Alpinism
Broad Peak and GI, winter ascents abandoned
Neither the Polish mountaineers engaged on Broad Peak nor the international expedition on G1 have managed to climb these giant mountains during the coldest season, and both expedition have now abandoned their attempts.
Piolet d'Or 2011: the nominations, Doug Scott receives Lifetime Achievement, and all the evenings
21/03/2011 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2011: the nominations, Doug Scott receives Lifetime Achievement, and all the evenings
The IXX Piolet d'Or will take place from 13 - 16 April 2011 at Courmayeur and Chamonix (Mont Blanc). Six ascents are in the running for the golden ice axe, while the great British mountaineer Doug Scott will receive the...
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011: Park Hee Yong and Anna Gallyamova reign supreme
14/03/2011 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011: Park Hee Yong and Anna Gallyamova reign supreme
The fourth and final stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2011 drew to a close in Kirov, Russia on 8 March and was won by the Russians Maxim Tomilov and Anna Gallyamova. The Russians Maria Tolokonina and Pavel Gulayev...
Drytooling beneath the Gran Sasso d'Italia at the Città di Pietra
02/03/2011 - Alpinism
Drytooling beneath the Gran Sasso d'Italia at the Città di Pietra
Pino Sabbatin introduces the new drytooling cliff Città di Pietra - the city of stone - at Prati di Tivo beneath the Gran Sasso d'Italia, with 20 routes up to M9.
Fabio Valseschini, interview after the first winter solo on Civetta
28/02/2011 - Interviews
Fabio Valseschini, interview after the first winter solo on Civetta
Fabio Valseschini talks about his recent great winter solo ascent of the Via dei 5 di Valmadrera up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites), as well as his alpinism and his love for the mountains.
Civetta NW Face, first winter solo ascent by Fabio Valseschini
14/02/2011 - Alpinism
Civetta NW Face, first winter solo ascent by Fabio Valseschini
On Sunday 13 February Fabio Valseschini from Lecco, Italy, completed the first solo winter ascent of the great Via dei Cinque di Valmadrera (1350m, VI+ A3) on the NW Face of Civetta, Dolomites. After 7 bivvies on the mountain and...
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011: Angelika Rainer and Hee Yong Park World Champions in Busteni
09/02/2011 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011: Angelika Rainer and Hee Yong Park World Champions in Busteni
The third stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2011 took place in Busteni, Romania on 5 and 6 February and was won by the Italian Angelika Rainer and Hee Yong Park from Korea. With this vicotry the two are...
Gasherbrum II in winter: after the summit, descent to Base Camp with avalanche for Moro, Urubko and Richards!
04/02/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: after the summit, descent to Base Camp with avalanche for Moro, Urubko and Richards!
Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards have now reached Base Camp after an arduous descent during which they were hit by an avalanche. This historic first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (8035m, Karakorum, Pakistan) now draws to a close.
Gasherbrum II in winter: after the summit, Moro, Urubko and Richards reach Camp 1
03/02/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: after the summit, Moro, Urubko and Richards reach Camp 1
After yesterday's historic first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (8035m, Karakorum, Pakistan), Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards have now descended from Camp 3 to Camp 1.
Gasherbrum II in winter: Campo 2 for Moro, Urubko and Richards
28/01/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: Campo 2 for Moro, Urubko and Richards
On 25 Janaury 2011 Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards installed Camp 2 at 6500m on Gasherbrum II. In doing so they carried out another important step in their attempt to carry out the first winter ascent of the...
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011, Bendler and Tolokonina win in Cheongsong, Korea
10/01/2011 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011, Bendler and Tolokonina win in Cheongsong, Korea
The first stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup took place in Cheongsong, Korea, on 8 and 9 January 2011 and was won by Markus Bendler from Austria and Maria Tolokonina from Russia. The Speed event was won by the...
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
01/01/2011 - Climbing
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
On 28 December 2010 the American climber Cody Roth carried out the first repeat of Malvasia at Dvigrad in Croatia, the route bolted in 1987 and freed in 1988 by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla which no one had managed to repeat....
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
17/12/2010 - Alpinism
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
Another new route on Sass dla Crusc (Dolomites) by Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara who established Quo Vadis on the massive mountain face, the symbol of the Val Badia.
Adamello ski mountaineering in Italy
14/12/2010 - Alpinism
Adamello ski mountaineering in Italy
Ski mountaineering on the largest glacier in the Italian Alps. Five ski tours described by the Mountain Guide Cain Olsen: Calotta, Ficazza, Pisgana, Pisganino and the legendary Adamello Tour.
Accidents in the Himalaya and helicopter rescues
30/11/2010 - Alpinism
Accidents in the Himalaya and helicopter rescues
Simone Moro discusses helicopter rescues in the Himalaya, starting with the accident on Ama Dablam which cost the lives of two of his friends, the pilot Sabin Basnyat and the rescue operator Purna Awale, on a mission to rescue the...
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
25/11/2010 - Interviews
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
Interview with Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, two months prior to his next expedition to attempt the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan) together with Denis Urubko.

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