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Roda di Vael: Moulin rouge dance for Tondini and Sartori
22/03/2005 - Alpinism
Roda di Vael: Moulin rouge dance for Tondini and Sartori
On 17 March Nicola Tondini and Nicola Sartori carried out the third ascent (and first winter ascent) of “Moulin Rouge” on the red-faced Roda di Vael in the Dolomites, first climbed in June 2002 by Oswald Celva and Christof Hainz.
Slovenian Patagonia expedition 2004
07/03/2005 - Alpinism
Slovenian Patagonia expedition 2004
In mid January a small Slovenian expedition comprised of Silvo Karo, Andrej Grmovsek, Tanja Grmovsek and Monika Kambic Mali made a series of fast ascents in Patagonia, including the first all-female ascent of Cerro Torre and the "Slovenian start for...
Alexander Odintsov - interview after winning the Piolet d'Or 2004
01/03/2005 - Interviews
Alexander Odintsov - interview after winning the Piolet d'Or 2004
Interview with the Russian expedition leader who received the Piolet d'Or 2004 for the first direct ascent of the North face of Jannu.
Piolet d'or 2004, the six candidates
10/02/2005 - Alpinism
Piolet d'or 2004, the six candidates
The jury, headed by Krzysztof Wielicki, and the six candidates for the Piolet d'Or 2004 promoted by Montagnes Magazine
Kandersteg: incredible idefalls in Switzerland
10/01/2005 - Alpinism
Kandersteg: incredible idefalls in Switzerland
Anna Torretta talks about the icefalls at Kandersteg, Switzerland
Kalymnos, 2 new multi-pitches
16/12/2004 - Climbing
Kalymnos, 2 new multi-pitches
At the start of December Giovanni Ongaro, Fabio Palma, Simone Pedeferri and Marco Vago travelled to Kalymnos, Greece, where they made the first ascent of two new multi-pitch routes.
Banff 2004 winners
30/11/2004 - Events
Banff 2004 winners
The traditional Banff Mountain Festival, a week-long celebration of mountain films, books and photography held in Banff, came to a close on 7 November.
Shisha Pangma, Winter Expedition 2004-2005
25/11/2004 - Alpinism
Shisha Pangma, Winter Expedition 2004-2005
On 29/11, Simone Moro, Jan Szulc, Dariusz Zaluski Jacek Jawien and Piotr Morawski head for Tibetto attempt the first winter ascent of Shisha Pangma (8027m).
Yosmite Camp 4 restrictions
27/09/2004 - Climbing
Yosmite Camp 4 restrictions
While the 30 year-old Yosemite Camp 4 restrictions are to come into effect, the Climber Association has organised the first climber volunateer day of the autumn season.
New route dedicated to Cadore Mountain Rescue
24/09/2004 - Alpinism
New route dedicated to Cadore Mountain Rescue
On 27 and 28 August Michele Zandegiacomo Mazzon and Simone Corte Pause made the first ascent of a new route on the south face of Cima Auronzo, Dolomites.
FFA of Cani morti by Manolo and Scarian
14/09/2004 - Interviews
FFA of Cani morti by Manolo and Scarian
On 23 August Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla and Riccardo "Sky" Scarian both made the first free ascent of "Cani morti", their 2003 testpiece on the north face of Campanile Basso di Lastei, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites.
K2 Magic line for Jordi Cormoinas: success and tragedy
02/09/2004 - Alpinism
K2 Magic line for Jordi Cormoinas: success and tragedy
On 16 August 2004 at 24.00, Jordi Cormoinas, the leader of the Catalan "Tarragona Magic Line Expedition 2004", made the first repeat of K2's Magic Line. Manuel de la Matta died during the descent.
K2 Scoiattoli summit success!
28/07/2004 - Alpinism
K2 Scoiattoli summit success!
At 9.45 local time on 28 July 2004, Mario Lacedelli and Luciano Zardini reached the summit of K2, 8611m. They reached the top together with the Swiss Mountain Guide Michel Andre Wirdt, a Sherpa and and the Pakistani high altitude...
K2 summit for Italian Da Polenza expedition and Spanish Al filo de lo imposible.
26/07/2004 - Alpinism
K2 summit for Italian Da Polenza expedition and Spanish Al filo de lo imposible.
At 13,30 CET Silvio Mondinelli and Karl Unterchirker reached the summit of K2, followed by Walter Nones, Michele Compagnoni and Ugo Giacomelli at 14.15 (17.15 local time). At roughly 17.50 (local time) four members of the Spanish "Al filo...
Fitz Roy new route by Orlandi, Codò and Fava
15/06/2004 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy new route by Orlandi, Codò and Fava
On 7 February 2004 the Italians Elio Orlandi and Luca Fava, and the Argentine Horacio Codò reached the summit of Chalten - Fitz Roy (Patagonia) via the new "Linea di Eleganza" , graded ED+ 6c/A3 90°/M7,
Ciao Patrick, new route on Khali Himal
06/05/2004 - Alpinism
Ciao Patrick, new route on Khali Himal
The report by Simone Moro eand details of the new route on the North Face of Khali Himal - Baruntse North (7066m), Nepal.

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