574 News found

Remembering Ermanno Salvaterra, the great Italian mountaineer of the Brenta Dolomites and Patagonia, who perished yesterday while climbing on Campanile Alto di Brenta.

Experienced alpinists Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer have made the first ascent of Yernamandu Kangri, a 7180m peak in Pakistan's Karakorum. The pair climbed alpine style and needed three bivouacs.

Interview with Nadir Maguet who set a new ascent and descent record on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif on Monday 10 July 2023. The 29-year-old Italian athlete climbed the Normal Route from Planpincieux (Courmayeur - Val Ferret) to Pointe Walker (4,208m) in 2:17. After a short rest...

Jain Kim from South Korea and Toby Roberts from Great Britain won the third stage of the Lead World Cup 2023 at Chamonix on Sunday 9 July. This is Kim's 30th Lead victory, Roberts' first.

At Punta Frassenè on Spiz d'Agner (Dolomites, Italy) Nicolò Geremia and Mirco Grasso have made the first ascent of Barbari nel TAO (IX+/X-, 500m). Both describe this multi-pitch as 'one of the most beautiful and fun routes' they know.

The second stage of the 2023 Lead World Cup was won on Saturday night at Villars in Switzerland by Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert. This is the Slovenian’s 25th Lead World Cup gold medal, the Austrian's 20th.

Italian mountaineers Silvia Loreggian and Stefano Ragazzo have established what is likely to be a new climb on Cemetery Spire in the Cathedral Spires group of the Kichatna mountains in Alaska. Gold Rush (600m, 5.12a A1+) was climbed with one bivy from 4 to 6 June 2023.

Interview with Simon Gietl after the first ascent of Goldfish on Meru South in India, carried out alpine style from 11 - 13 May 2023 with Mathieu Maynadier and Roger Schäli. Interview by Bulgarian journalist Tanya Ivanova.

This spring La Severina, the spectacular crag in Cilento in Campania, Italy, was developed further and currently features 30 pitches ranging from 6b to 8b+. Rolando Larcher provides the info, while a video by Sergio Morra introduces this 'overhanging forest of stalactites' located between San Severino di Centola and the...

Climbing in the Kichatna Spires of Alaska, on 19 April 2023 American Mountain Guides Joseph Hobby (34) and Zach Lovell (30) made what is believed to be the first ascent of the stunning NW Face of Citadel via their 'Borealis Face' (2,000ft, 85° ice/snow). A day later they established 'Superfly...

The report by Slovenian alpinist Gašper Pintar who on 28 and 29 March 2023 completed a remarkable solo climb of the famous Čop Pillar on the North Face of Triglav in Slovenia. Although technically no longer in the calendar winter, the ascent was carried out in conditions akin to the...

Belgian climber Sébastien Berthe has managed to flash 'Le Voyage' (8b+/E10) at Annot in France. First ascended by James Pearson in 2017, it is considered one of the hardest trad climbs in France.

On 8 March 2023 Christina Lusti Lustenberger and Andrew McNab made what is likely to be the first ski descent of the striking SW Couloir of Mount Niflheim in British Colombia, Canada.

French climber Sébastien Bouin has sent a flurry of hard routes in Portugal. At the seacliff crag Meio Mango at Cabo Espichel the 29-year-old established Rei de Bering at 9a+/b the hardest sport climb in the country.

Precisely 8 years after contracting meningitis and meningococcal septicaemia, Italian mountaineer and multiple limb amputee Andrea Lanfri successfully made two ascents of Aconcagua, at 6961 meters the highest mountain in South America. This is Lanfri’s fourth Seven Summits peak, after Mont Blanc (2008), Everest (2022) and Kilimanjaro (2022).

Interview with the mountaineers Hervé Barmasse and David Göttler, currently attempting to climb Dhaulagiri (8167 m) in winter and in alpine style.