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Piolets d'Or 2014, the five nominations for the 22nd edition
27/02/2014 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2014, the five nominations for the 22nd edition
From the most remote mountains in Nepal and Pakistan to the frozen lands of Alaska, via the imposing Masherbrum massif and symbollic Annapurna. Five ascents, carried out by some of the world's most talented alpinists, are in the running for...
Hansjörg Auer and the cornice collapse
11/02/2014 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer and the cornice collapse
Austrian alpinist Hansjörg Auer talks about the snow cornice that collapsed beneath his feet during a recent climb in the Ötztaler Alps.
Piolets d'Or 2014, the big list
10/02/2014 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2014, the big list
The complete list of all 2013 ascents taken into consideration by the Piolets d'Or, from which the choice of nominees for the Piolets d'Or 2014 will be made.
Merà Dimel, new Presolana winter climb by Yuri Parimbelli, Tito Arosio and Ennio Spiranelli
21/01/2014 - Alpinism
Merà Dimel, new Presolana winter climb by Yuri Parimbelli, Tito Arosio and Ennio Spiranelli
On 13 January the Italian alpinists Yuri Parimbelli, Tito Arosio and Ennio Spiranelli made the first ascent of Merà Dimel (650m, AI 4 M6) up Anticima delle Quattro Matte, Presolana, Italy.
Dutch expedition makes first ascent of NE Face of Great Walls of China
04/12/2013 - Alpinism
Dutch expedition makes first ascent of NE Face of Great Walls of China
On 16/08/2013 Bas Visscher, Vincent Perrin and Bas van der Smeede from Holland made the first ascent of Double Trouble (TD-, AI4, 800m) up the North-east face of the Great Walls of China (circa 5120m) in the Kokshaal-Too massif in...
Likhu Chuli I, first ascent by Ines Papert in Nepal
29/11/2013 - Alpinism
Likhu Chuli I, first ascent by Ines Papert in Nepal
On 13 November 2013 German alpinist Ines Papert made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed Likhu Chuli I (6719m) in Nepal, also referred to as Pig Pherago Shar. Her climbing partner Thomas Senf abandoned his attempt circa 140m below...
Beauty and the Beast, first ascent on Alaska's Gargoyle
10/07/2013 - Alpinism
Beauty and the Beast, first ascent on Alaska's Gargoyle
In Alaska's Ruth Gorge the Austrians Alex Bluemel and Gerry Fiegl have made the first ascent of Beauty and the Beast (7a+ 650m A3) on the Gargoyle. Shortly afterwards the two Tyrolean mountaineers made the first repeat of the long...
Ghost Face, new Hubshorn climb by Zanoli, Pagnoncelli, Gallian
30/05/2013 - Alpinism
Ghost Face, new Hubshorn climb by Zanoli, Pagnoncelli, Gallian
On 26 May 2013, Paolo Zanoli, Giovanni Pagnoncelli and Davide Gallian made the first ascent of Ghost Face (TD+, 850m length, 550m height) up the North East Face of Hubshorn (3192m, Pennine Alps). The peak is located on the border...
L'Onda di Hokusai, the great new route up Molignon di Dentro in the Dolomites by Angelo and Tonelli
02/04/2013 - Alpinism
L'Onda di Hokusai, the great new route up Molignon di Dentro in the Dolomites by Angelo and Tonelli
Andreas Tonelli reports about L'Onda di Hokusai (750m, WI5+, 60°, M3), the new route he forged together with Philipp Angelo up the NE Face of Molignon di Dentro, Rosengarten, Dolomites.
Piolets d'Or 2013: Kurt Diemberger receives Lifetime Achievement Award
06/02/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2013: Kurt Diemberger receives Lifetime Achievement Award
From 3 - 6 April 2013 Courmayeur and Chamonix will be the world's capital of alpinism thanks to the 21st Piolets d’Or, the international award dedicated to alpinism.
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
02/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves...
Scerscen - Bernina traverse
30/07/2012 - Alpinism
Scerscen - Bernina traverse
Michele Comi reports about a great alpine traverse, the one which crosses the summit of Monte Scerscen and traverses to the summit of Piz Bernina (Western Rhaetian Alps).
Revelation mountains, new Slovenian first ascents in Alaska
19/07/2012 - Alpinism
Revelation mountains, new Slovenian first ascents in Alaska
In spring 2012 a Slovenian expedition to the Revelation Mountain range in Alaska resulted in a flurry of first ascents up virgin peaks. The trip report by expedition leader Anze Cokl.
Stephane Brosse, the world's ski mountaineering champion has died
Stephane Brosse, the world's ski mountaineering champion has died
Great mourning in the ski mountaineering world and that of the mountains in general: on Sunday 17/06/2012 the 41 year-old ski mountaineering champion Stephane Brosse died as a result of a cornice collapse on Aiguille Argentiere (Mont Blanc).
Pizzo della Pieve, first winter solo by Ivo Ferrari
11/02/2011 - Alpinism
Pizzo della Pieve, first winter solo by Ivo Ferrari
On 25 January 2011 Italian alpinist Ivo Ferrari made the first winter ascent of the Parete Fasana on Pizzo della Pieve (Grigne) by climbing the classic the Via Fasana.
Gasherbrum II in winter: Campo 2 for Moro, Urubko and Richards
28/01/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: Campo 2 for Moro, Urubko and Richards
On 25 Janaury 2011 Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards installed Camp 2 at 6500m on Gasherbrum II. In doing so they carried out another important step in their attempt to carry out the first winter ascent of the...

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