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Florian Riegler frees Albatros in Vallunga, Dolomites
14/10/2014 - Alpinism
Florian Riegler frees Albatros in Vallunga, Dolomites
On 27/09/2014 Florian Riegler, together with his brother Martin Riegler, has made the first free ascent of the multi-pitch rock climb Albatros (8b, 200m) up the South Face of Col Turont, Vallunga, Dolomites.
Federica Mingolla repeats Tom et je ris 8b+ in the Verdon Gorge
09/10/2014 - Climbing
Federica Mingolla repeats Tom et je ris 8b+ in the Verdon Gorge
On 2 October 2014 Italian climber Federica Mingolla repeated the spectacular climb Tom et je ris 8b+ in the Verdon Gorge, France. The report by Edoardo Falletta
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
02/10/2014 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
On 26 and 27 September 2014 Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias repeated Directe de l'Amitie on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc). A route first climbed in winter 1974 by Louis Audoubert, Michel Feuillarade, Marc Galy and Yannick Seigneur, described by Corrado Korra Pesce as 'the most...
Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong
29/09/2014 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong
On 25/07/2014 the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong completed the first ascent of Gasherbrum V (7147m) in Pakistan, climbing alpine style via a new route up the South Face. The report by expedition leader Chi-young Ahn.
Pinne gialle, new climb by Manolo at Tognazza
26/09/2014 - Climbing
Pinne gialle, new climb by Manolo at Tognazza
On 23/09/2014 Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla made the first free ascent of Pinne gialle, a difficult new 4-pitch climb up the side of the large central corner at Tognazza (Passo Rolle, Dolomites, Italy).
Neil Mawson makes first ascent of Choronzon E10 7a in Wales
24/09/2014 - Climbing
Neil Mawson makes first ascent of Choronzon E10 7a in Wales
On 21 September 2014 Neil Mawson made the first ascent of Choronzon at Pembroke in Wales. Graded E10 7a, this checks in as one of the hardest trad routes in the UK.
Project Fear, important new variation on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Dave MacLeod
22/09/2014 - Alpinism
Project Fear, important new variation on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Dave MacLeod
On the North Face of Cima Ovest, Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites) Dave MacLeod from Scotland has climbed Project Fear, a difficult new 130m variation that leads to the crux pitch of Pan Aroma and breaches difficulties up to 8c.
Forza 5, new climb up Quarto Torrione di Mondeval in the Dolomites
15/09/2014 - Alpinism
Forza 5, new climb up Quarto Torrione di Mondeval in the Dolomites
Giovanni Bergamin, Francesco Leardi, Giuliano Pettenuzzo and Valerio Ranzato have made the first ascent of Forza 5 (280m, 6b/A1), a new climb up Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Lastoni of Formin group, Dolomites.
Brenta Base Camp 3 - the new climb Attraverso il Tempo on Campanile Basso
10/09/2014 - Alpinism
Brenta Base Camp 3 - the new climb Attraverso il Tempo on Campanile Basso
The third and final dispatch of the Brenta Base Camp, the small 'expedition' into the the heart of the Brenta Dolomites during the Discover Brenta Dolomites event to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the first traverse of this massif. The report by Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti about the first...
British trad: great Pembroke climbs by Caroline Ciavaldini, Yuji Hirayama and James Pearson
09/09/2014 - Climbing
British trad: great Pembroke climbs by Caroline Ciavaldini, Yuji Hirayama and James Pearson
At Pembroke in Wales Caroline Ciavaldini has climbed Mercia Wall E8, Yuji Hirayama has climbed The Big Issue E9 while James Pearson has made a flash ascent of Something's Burning E9. Caroline Ciavaldini talks us through these three difficult trad climbs.
Torre Egger: Italians Patagonia bound
05/09/2014 - Alpinism
Torre Egger: Italians Patagonia bound
From 11 September to 15 November Ermanno Salvaterra, Tomas Franchini, Nicola Binelli and Francesco Salvaterra will return to Patagonia to try and complete their new route, which they started in November 2013, up the centre of the West Face of Torre Egger.
Rock Master Lead, Semifinal results
30/08/2014 - Competitions
Rock Master Lead, Semifinal results
Jakob Schubert and Hélène Janicot place first in the onsight round. Schubert is joined in the Final by McColl, Amma, Skofic, Chernikov, Vettorata, Kryukov, Primozic and Timmermans. In the women's Janicot is joined by Röck, Markovic, Durif, Lavarda, Malamid, Becerra, Fakhritdinova and Claudia Ghisolfi. The final begins this evening at...
Shark's Tooth, new climb in Greenland by Della Bordella, Schüpbach and Ledergerber
22/08/2014 - Alpinism
Shark's Tooth, new climb in Greenland by Della Bordella, Schüpbach and Ledergerber
Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Christian Ledergerber have made the first ascent of The Great Shark Hunt, a new route up the Shark's Tooth in Greenland.
Destination Flatanger and the Hanshelleren cave for Silvio Reffo
21/08/2014 - Climbing
Destination Flatanger and the Hanshelleren cave for Silvio Reffo
Italian climber Silvio Reffo talks about his climbing trip to Flatanger and the Hanshelleren cave in Norway, where he managed to repeat Odin's eye, 8c+.
Astro Zap on Trident du Tacul by Bassanini and Camurri
14/08/2014 - Alpinism
Astro Zap on Trident du Tacul by Bassanini and Camurri
On 4/09/2013 Giovani Bassanini and Lamberto Camurri made the first ascent of Astro Zap (7a), a line that climbs the crack avoided by the Via Diretta Bonatti, first climbed by Walter Bonatti and Cosimo Zappelli in 1963 up Le Trident du Tacul in the Mont Blanc massif.
Ak-Su valley, two new rock climbs by Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo
12/08/2014 - Alpinism
Ak-Su valley, two new rock climbs by Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo
A great and intense and climbing trip to the Ak-su Valley (Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan) resulted in two new climbs and three repeats for the Italian alpinists Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo. Schiera provides the report.