The visible gem, on Sass d'Ortiga in the Dolomites

"A little gem", this is how Maurizio Giordani described his latest Dolomite outing. The 10 pitch climb breaches fantastic rock with difficulties up to V+, established on 9 August 2003 together with Nancy Paoletto on the SW Face of Sass d'Ortiga in the Pale di San Martino. The new route ascends just to the right of the famous Scalet. Gear has been left in-situ (including belays and cordelette in the numerous threads), and the route is highly recommended by Giordani for a "fun repeat". These are the words of Carlo Caccia about the route put up Maurizio and Nancy on Sass D’Ortiga. Clear words, rarely listened to.

I know Sass D’Ortiga well, it’s an elegant Mountain, ”easy" to access, with superb rock and ... easy descent! It's that kind of face I’d like to climb today, no hassle, just pleasant and elegant climbing. The other day, while climbing the Di Guglielmo route on Becco di Valsoera a friend asked which I'd
become "fossilized" on the classics, on that kind of climbing that never goes “that little step further." I didn’t know how to reply, but within me I had no doubts whatsoever, after my "past"... Spent soloing around, searching for the unobtainable, I now get enjoyment here, from the usual stuff of beautiful classics that, at times, aren't classics in the strict sense of the word, but where my brain stops working and provides me with “empty” thoughts. The simplest!

We set off at night and find ourselves catapulted into another climate, sweat and moisture created from the sweltering heat are absent here. Paolo and I quickly ascend to the Treviso hut, the scent of the Dolomites quickly takes me over, the Ortiga faces lies in front of us.

After the first part, the pedestal, we finally reach the start of the difficulties, we look up, play heads or tails and then I set off up fantastic rock. There is almost no insitu gear, but threads and flakes enable safe and “protected" progression. No unnecessary effort, just wonderful climbing dictated by a logical and striking line where everything else is superfluous. The pitches are fifty meters long, linear and with no pro, pegs here would have been useless anyway. Threads and cordelettes are the name of the game today. On the famous Spigolo del Velo there are two friends from Bergamo, just the four of us, no one else…

I’d like to recommend this route to everyone, to those who love being "fossilized" like myself, at times far removed from certainty, from bombproof safety, but never reckless! I would recommend the route and thank Maurizio for the beautiful present he gave us on Sass D’Ortiga.

We descended to Rifugio Treviso and drank the obligatory glass of cool beer, not a small one this time! Tulio, with his in-depth knowledge of the area, bid me farewell with the words "You know Ivo, everyone always climbs the Scalet route, beautiful, well protected .... No one leaves gets off the beaten track." Sometimes it's really a shame!

Thanks to Carlo Caccia, Great Escapes, Paolo Arosio and the Rifugio Treviso staff.

Ivo Ferrari

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TOPO: rock climbs Pale di San Martino, Dolomites