3939 News found

01/10/2020 - Alpinism
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili In September 2020 Georgian mountaineers made a 16-day trip to Svaneti in Central Caucasus and completed two new routes. The first, by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Levan Lashkarashvili, up the SW Face of Ailama (4,547m), the second by Badriashvili and Tepnadze up the NW Face of Ushba. Badriashvili reports.

30/09/2020 - Alpinism
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer Martin Sieberer reports about his repeats with Hannes Hohenwarter of Locker vom Hocker on Schüsselkar, Tschechenplatte in the Karwendel and Pumprisse in the Wilder Kaiser. Three classic limestone trad climbs in Tyrol, Austria, climbed one day after the next, and reached by train and bike.

28/09/2020 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi repeats Change, world’s first 9b+ at Flatanger in Norway Earlier today Stefano Ghisolfi made the second ascent of Change, the first 9b+ sport climb in the world established by Adam Ondra in 2012 at Flatanger in Norway.

17/09/2020 - Climbing
Giacomo Meliffi makes free solo ascent of Legoland, legendary crack climb in Valle dell’Orco Italian climber Giacomo Meliffi has made a free solo ascent of Legoland, the famous crack climb in Valle dell’Orco, Italy.

09/09/2020 - Climbing
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley Maurizio Oviglia introduces a selection of entry-level crack climbs in Valle dell’Orco: Viper, Mamba, Incastromania, Fessura del Tramonto, Fessura Kosterlitz and many others. A step-by-step guide to the trad climbing gems in Valle dell’Orco.

09/09/2020 - Alpinism
Czech Direct on Punta Ferrario in Val Masino freed by Paolo Marazzi, Giacomo Regallo Paolo Marazzi and Giacomo Regallo made the first free ascent of Diretta dei Cecoslovacchi, the Czech Direct, on Punta Ferrario (3258m) in Val Torrone - Val Masino, Italy.

02/09/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award The report and words about mountaineering from the Paul Preuss Prize, awarded to the Austrian mountaineer Heinz Mariacher celebrated at Reinhold Messner's Firmian Castle. Mariacher is the eighth alpinist to receive the prestigious award after Messner himself, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.

27/08/2020 - Alpinism
From Hell to Heaven, Hervé Barmasse and Stefano Perrone climb new route in Piantonetto Valley, Italy Italian alpinist Hervé Barmasse reports about Dall'inferno al Paradiso, from hell to heaven, a new multi-pitch rock climb on Torre del Gran San Pietro above the Piantonetto Valley (Orco Valley, Gran Paradiso National Park, Italy) first ascended with Stefano Perrone.

25/08/2020 - Climbing
Laura Rogora climbs 9a in a day, La Prophétie des Grenouilles at Rocher des Brumes At Rocher des Brumes in France, Italian climber Laura Rogora has sent a 9a sport climb in just one day, La Prophétie des Grenouilles.

24/08/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020 Austrian alpinist Heinz Mariacher is the recipient of the Paul Preuss Award 2020. Mariacher is the eighth mountaineer to receive the prestigious prize after Reinhold Messner, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.

20/08/2020 - Climbing
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe fancy Des Kaisers neue Kleider in Wilder Kaiser Seb Berthe and Nico Favresse have made a single-day, ground-up repeat of Des Kaisers neue Kleider (240m, 8b+), first ascended by Stefan Glowacz in the Wilder Kaiser massif in Austria in 1994.

16/08/2020 - Alpinism
Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney Italian mountaineer Leonardo Gheza reports about his solo ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney in the Mont Blanc massif on 6/08/2020. This might well be the first solo ascent in just a single day. In any case it was an amazing experience on one of the most famous faces...

15/08/2020 - Climbing
Climbing banned at Taipan Wall in Australia Rock climbing has been temporarily banned at one of Australia’s premier crags, Taipan Wall in the Grampians.

12/08/2020 - Alpinism
Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs Four remarkable ascents will be awarded the Piolets d'Or 2020 at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland from 11 - 22 September: Chamlang by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák, Tengi Ragi Tau by Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva, Link Sar by Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman...

08/08/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses Yesterday afternoon Matteo Pasquetto, the talented Italian alpinist and aspirant mountain guide, lost his life while descending from the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.

07/08/2020 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz speed solo ascent of Mont Blanc Integralissima de Peuterey Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz has made a solo ascent of the Integralissima de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif in an astounding 17 hours. This is the first repeat of the 'Longest ridge in the Alps’, first climbed in full by the Germans Gottlieb Braun-Elwert and Rudi Kirmeier in 1973.
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