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Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses
08/08/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses
Yesterday afternoon Matteo Pasquetto, the talented Italian alpinist and aspirant mountain guide, lost his life while descending from the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Filip Babicz speed solo ascent of Mont Blanc Integralissima de Peuterey
07/08/2020 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz speed solo ascent of Mont Blanc Integralissima de Peuterey
Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz has made a solo ascent of the Integralissima de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif in an astounding 17 hours. This is the first repeat of the 'Longest ridge in the Alps’, first climbed in full by the Germans Gottlieb Braun-Elwert and Rudi Kirmeier in 1973.
Alexander Megos frees Bibliographie at Céüse, the world’s second 9c
06/08/2020 - Climbing
Alexander Megos frees Bibliographie at Céüse, the world’s second 9c
At Céüse in France the German climber Alex Megos has made the first ascent of Bibliographie and suggested the grade 9c. This is now the most difficult sport climb in France and only the second in the world this difficult.
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
05/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
Italian alpinist Federica Mingolla reports about her repeat with Leonardo Gheza of Manitua, the difficult route first ascended solo by Slavko Svetičič in 1991 on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer discover L Pilaster Desmincià on Sass Rigais in Dolomites
04/08/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer discover L Pilaster Desmincià on Sass Rigais in Dolomites
Following a line traced 50 years ago by Reinhold Messner, on 29/07/2020 Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer made the first ascent of L Pilaster Desmincià, a new multi-pitch rock climb up the NW face of Sass Rigais in the Geislerspitzen group of the Italian Dolomites.
Ben Moon, Jerry Moffatt, Johnny Dawes featuring in 80s Birth of Extreme
03/08/2020 - Climbing
Ben Moon, Jerry Moffatt, Johnny Dawes featuring in 80s Birth of Extreme
The film 80's Birth of Extreme by Alun Hughes, featuring some of the most important moments in British sport climbing during the 1980s. Featuring Ben Moon, Jerry Moffatt and Johnny Dawes.
Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview
31/07/2020 - Interviews
Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview
Interview with British rock climber Ben Moon, one of the world’s greatest rock climbers throughout the 1980’s and early 1990’s with landmark first ascents such one of Britain’s first 8a, Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn in Wales and Hubble at Raven Tor, hailed as the world’s first 8c+...
Alexey Rubtsov: bouldering at world-class Djan Tugan in Russia
31/07/2020 - Climbing
Alexey Rubtsov: bouldering at world-class Djan Tugan in Russia
Alexey Rubtsov reports about the huge bouldering potential at Djan Tugan in the Caucasus in Russia where he has established 30 boulder problems up to 8B+. The Russian bouldering champ has described the area as 'new world-class bouldering area’.
Help save Magic Wood's climber-run camping and hotel
28/07/2020 - Climbing
Help save Magic Wood's climber-run camping and hotel
A petition has been launched to support the Saluz family who run the hotel, campsite and restaurant in Magic Wood in Switzerland and are recognised as being the true custodians for one of the greatest bouldering destinations in the world.
Adam Ondra onsights Il Maratoneta, Manolo’s historic 8b+ at Paklenica in Croatia
24/07/2020 - Interviews
Adam Ondra onsights Il Maratoneta, Manolo’s historic 8b+ at Paklenica in Croatia
Interview with Czech rock climber Adam Ondra who has made the first onsight of Il Maratoneta, the first 8b+ in Croatia freed by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla in 1987 and at the time one of the hardest climbs in the world. Furthermore, he has made the first ascent of Genius Loci...
Karwendel climbing: on Repswand Manhartsberger and Gössinger establish Prime Time
22/07/2020 - Alpinism
Karwendel climbing: on Repswand Manhartsberger and Gössinger establish Prime Time
On Repswand in the Karwendel massif, Austria, Peter Manhartsberger and Klaus Gössinger have made the first ascent of the new multi-pitch alpine sports climb Prime Time.
Federica Mingolla simply Incroyable on Mont Blanc’s Red Pillar of Brouillard
21/07/2020 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla simply Incroyable on Mont Blanc’s Red Pillar of Brouillard
Italian mountaineer Federica Mingolla reports about the first integral ascent, with Leonardo Gheza, of Incroyable, the rock climb established just a few days ago on the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo della Bordella, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti. Mingolla repeated the route a few...
Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède
19/07/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède
French alpinist and mountain guide Jérôme Sullivan reports about Mad Max, a new route up the East Face of Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif established from 8-9 July 2020 with Jérémy Brauge and Victor Saucède.
Sami Koponen repeats Kesäturkki, 8c DWS at Punkaharju in Finland
17/07/2020 - Climbing
Sami Koponen repeats Kesäturkki, 8c DWS at Punkaharju in Finland
Finnish rock climber Sami Koponen has made the second ascent of Kesäturkki, an 8c deep water solo at Punkaharju established in 2016 by Nalle Hukkataival.
Monte Rosa speed enchainment by Nicolas Hojac, Adrian Zurbrügg
14/07/2020 - Alpinism
Monte Rosa speed enchainment by Nicolas Hojac, Adrian Zurbrügg
On 8 July 2020 the two Swiss mountaineers Adrian Zurbrügg and Nicolas Hojac completed the spectacular traverse of the 18 mountains in the Monte Rosa massif above 4000 meters in just 13 hours and 39 minutes.
Mont Blanc's Digital Crack repeated by Marco Sappa
10/07/2020 - Alpinism
Mont Blanc's Digital Crack repeated by Marco Sappa
Marco Sappa has repeated the famous Digital Crack, first ascended in 1990 by Thierry Renault and Alain Ghersen on the Grand Gendarme of the Arête des Cosmiques in the Mont Blanc massif. The Italian mountain guide reports.

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