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Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson free climb the Dawn Wall on El Capitan
15/01/2015 - Climbing
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson free climb the Dawn Wall on El Capitan
On 14 January 2015, after 19 days on the wall and years of efforts, American climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson completed the historic first free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA. Almost 1000m high and with...
Cerro Torre, Italian climbing action in Patagonia
19/12/2014 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre, Italian climbing action in Patagonia
Currently there are numerous Italian teams climbing in Patagonia, in particular in the Chalten massif, where Cerro Torre was climbed via the Ragni route by Marcello Cominetti, Massimo Lucco, Francesco Salvaterra, Majori Marco, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli. The route's...
Crag certification and classification, bolter responsibilities and training: the French example and Philipp Brass interview
19/12/2014 - Climbing
Crag certification and classification, bolter responsibilities and training: the French example and Philipp Brass interview
Interview with Philippe Brass, mountain guide and expert new routes, about crag certification and classification, the responsibilities new bolters have the the training they receive. By Maurizio Oviglia
Stortoland, new drytooling crag at Monte Dolada
10/12/2014 - Climbing
Stortoland, new drytooling crag at Monte Dolada
Luca Facco introduces Stortoland, the new drytooling / total dry crag at Monte Dolada, Alpago, Belluno Prealps.
Climbing in Sardinia news: developments at Oliena and Domusnovas and the multi-pitch Malala Day
25/11/2014 - Climbing
Climbing in Sardinia news: developments at Oliena and Domusnovas and the multi-pitch Malala Day
In his regular rock climbing in Sardinia update, Maurizio Oviglia talks about recent developments at the crags Oliena and Domusnovas and the new multi-pitch granite climb Malala Day at Locherie (Onifai).
Adam Ondra and Mina Markovic win in Kranj
18/11/2014 - Competitions
Adam Ondra and Mina Markovic win in Kranj
The last stage of the Lead World Cup 2014, held on 16 November at Kranj in Slovenia, was won by Adam Ondra and Mina Markovic. Austria's Jakob Schubert and South Korea's Jain Kim had already won the Lead World Cup...
Conrad Anker & Kris Erickson: Always above us
14/11/2014 - Alpinism
Conrad Anker & Kris Erickson: Always above us
The short film of American alpinists Conrad Anker and Kris Erickson, the first ascent of Nutcracker in Hyalite Canyon, Montana, USA, and above all the memory of Alex Lowe and David Bridges who died on Shishapangma in 1999.
Val Chiavenna: climbing at Mezzera, Scilano and Caprone
10/11/2014 - Climbing
Val Chiavenna: climbing at Mezzera, Scilano and Caprone
The crags Mezzera, Scilano and Caprone in Val Chiavenna, Italy, introduced by Enrico Baistrocchi and Matteo Deghi, with the photos by Massimo Malpezzi. In memory of Davide Grassi.
Lofoten Storpillaren, new climb up Vagakallen by Adam Pustelnik and Andreas Klarström
08/11/2014 - Climbing
Lofoten Storpillaren, new climb up Vagakallen by Adam Pustelnik and Andreas Klarström
This summer Adam Pustelnik and Andreas Klarström made the first ascent of The Corner kick (8a, 900m), a difficult and dangerous new variation to the climb Freya up the Storpillaren pillar on the North Face of Vågakallen, Lofoten islands, Norway.
First Speedfly descent of Canalone Neri, Brenta Dolomites
07/11/2014 - Alpinism
First Speedfly descent of Canalone Neri, Brenta Dolomites
The report by Luca Tamburini who, together with Jacopo Pellizzari, made the first speedflying descent of Canalone Neri, Brenta Dolomites.
Hagshu North Face first ascent by Ales Cesen, Luka Lindic and Marko Prezelj
03/11/2014 - Alpinism
Hagshu North Face first ascent by Ales Cesen, Luka Lindic and Marko Prezelj
Between 29 and 30 September 2014, Slovenian alpinists Ales Cesen, Luka Lindic and Marko Prezelj made the first ascent of the North Face of Hagshu (ED, 70°-90°) in the Indian Himalayas.
Stefano Ghisolfi wins China stage of Lead World Cup with Mina Markovic
20/10/2014 - Competitions
Stefano Ghisolfi wins China stage of Lead World Cup with Mina Markovic
On 19 October 2014 the sixth stage of the Lead World Cup 2014 was won at Wujiang in China by Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi and Slovenia's Mina Markovic. The Speed World Cup was won by Qixin Zhong and Mariia Krasavina.
Tom Ballard, climbing in his veins
15/10/2014 - Interviews
Tom Ballard, climbing in his veins
Interview with talented British climber and alpinist Tom Ballard.
Federica Mingolla repeats Tom et je ris 8b+ in the Verdon Gorge
09/10/2014 - Climbing
Federica Mingolla repeats Tom et je ris 8b+ in the Verdon Gorge
On 2 October 2014 Italian climber Federica Mingolla repeated the spectacular climb Tom et je ris 8b+ in the Verdon Gorge, France. The report by Edoardo Falletta
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
02/10/2014 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
On 26 and 27 September 2014 Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias repeated Directe de l'Amitie on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc). A route first climbed in winter 1974 by Louis Audoubert, Michel Feuillarade, Marc Galy and...
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
01/10/2014 - Alpinism
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
On 16/09/2014, the Mayor of Courmayeur prohibited access to the path that leads to Rifugio Boccalatte and also the areas below the Whymper serac on the Grandes Jorasses. Excessive zeal on behalf of the town council, or was the serac...

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