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New climb added to White Sapphine peak in Kishtwar Valley by Christian Black, Vitaliy Musiyenko, Hayden Wyatt
02/11/2023 - Alpinism
New climb added to White Sapphine peak in Kishtwar Valley by Christian Black, Vitaliy Musiyenko, Hayden Wyatt
From 5 - 7 October 2023 Christian Black, Vitaliy Musiyenko and Hayden Wyatt made the alpine style first ascent of 'Brilliant Blue' (850m, AI3, 80°, M7+) on White Sapphire peak (6040m) in the Kishtwar Valley in India. This is only the 3rd ascent of the mountain overall.
Jannu North Face: interview with Alan Rousseau after Alpine Style ascent with Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell
20/10/2023 - Interviews
Jannu North Face: interview with Alan Rousseau after Alpine Style ascent with Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell
Interview with Alan Rousseau after the alpine style ascent, carried out with Matt Cornell and Jackson Marvell from 7 - 13 October 2023, of the North Face of Jannu via their 'Round Trip Ticket' (2700m, M7 AI5+ A0).
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
19/10/2023 - Alpinism
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
The organisers of the Piolets d'Or 2023 have awarded the following climbs: Jirishanca in Peru by Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts, Pumari Chhish East in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede and Jérôme Sullivan, and Jugal Spire in Nepal by Tim Miller and Paul Ramsden. A special mention has been...
Whillans ramp on Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia skied by Vivian Bruchez, Aurélien Lardy, Jules Socié
Whillans ramp on Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia skied by Vivian Bruchez, Aurélien Lardy, Jules Socié
On 21 September 2023 French alpinists Vivian Bruchez, Aurélien Lardy and Jules Socié skied the awe-inspiring Whillans-Cochrane ramp on Aguja Poincenot in the Fitz Roy massif of Patagonia. This is only the second ski descent, after the first carried out by the late Andreas Fransson in 2012. On 22...
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
26/09/2023 - Alpinism
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
Marek Radovský reports about a climbing expedition with Ďuri Švingál to the Cordillera Blanca in Peru from 15/07/2023 to 15/08/2023. In the Taulliraju massif the Slovakian mountaineers managed to establish 'The Line under the sky' (6b M6+ 1100m) on a hitherto unclimbed mountain they have called Marva Peak (5141m).
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from 14 to 16 November
Aleksandra Miroslaw, Bassa Mawem qualify for Speed Climbing at Paris 2024 Olympic Games
16/09/2023 - Competitions
Aleksandra Miroslaw, Bassa Mawem qualify for Speed Climbing at Paris 2024 Olympic Games
Yesterday at the IFSC Speed European Qualifier in Rome, Italy, Aleksandra Miroslaw from Poland and Bassa Mawem from France secured Speed Climbing spots at the Olympic Games Paris 2024. In the qualifiers Miroslaw set a new world record by stopping the clock after 6.24 seconds.
Matilda Söderlund nails Niemisis (9a) at Niemisel in Sweden
12/09/2023 - Climbing
Matilda Söderlund nails Niemisis (9a) at Niemisel in Sweden
Swedish climber Matilda Söderlund has made the second ascent of Niemisis at Niemisel, which she believes could be graded 9a.
Dolomites Cima Grande di Lavaredo x 600 for Heini Gütl
28/08/2023 - Alpinism
Dolomites Cima Grande di Lavaredo x 600 for Heini Gütl
The other day the 69-year-old mountain guide from Sexten, South Tyrol, Italy Heini Gütl reached the summit of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Dolomites for the 600th time
Nadine Wallner climbs Vertical Jungfrau Marathon in under 17 hours with Simon Wahli
21/08/2023 - Alpinism
Nadine Wallner climbs Vertical Jungfrau Marathon in under 17 hours with Simon Wahli
On 23 July 2023 Nadine Wallner completed the Vertical Jungfrau Marathon in 16 hours and 20 minutes. The Austrian mountain guide teamed up with her Swiss colleague Simon Wahli for the 3600+ ascent that leads from the Lauterbrunnental to the 4158m summit in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland.
Janja Garnbret Boulder & Lead World Champion, qualifies for Paris 2024 with Jessica Pilz & Ai Mori
12/08/2023 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret Boulder & Lead World Champion, qualifies for Paris 2024 with Jessica Pilz & Ai Mori
The women’s Combined Boulder & Lead was won in Bern last night by Janja Garnbret, while Jessica Pilz took silver and Ai Mori bronze. All three have qualified for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games.
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
14/07/2023 - Alpinism
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
Interview with Nadir Maguet who set a new ascent and descent record on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif on Monday 10 July 2023. The 29-year-old Italian athlete climbed the Normal Route from Planpincieux (Courmayeur - Val Ferret) to Pointe Walker (4,208m) in 2:17. After a short rest...
Paul Bonhomme starts Via Alpina 'Zero to Zero' run across the Alps in 28 days
08/07/2023 - Trail running
Paul Bonhomme starts Via Alpina 'Zero to Zero' run across the Alps in 28 days
French mountain guide Paul Bonhomme set off in the early hours of this morning from Muggia in Italy on his ambitious 'Zero to Zero' project to run across the Alps all the way to the Principality of Monaco following the Via Alpina trail in 28 days.
Alaska Big Wall: possible new climb up Cemetery Spire (Kichatnas) by Silvia Loreggian, Stefano Ragazzo
19/06/2023 - Alpinism
Alaska Big Wall: possible new climb up Cemetery Spire (Kichatnas) by Silvia Loreggian, Stefano Ragazzo
Italian mountaineers Silvia Loreggian and Stefano Ragazzo have established what is likely to be a new climb on Cemetery Spire in the Cathedral Spires group of the Kichatna mountains in Alaska. Gold Rush (600m, 5.12a A1+) was climbed with one bivy from 4 to 6 June 2023.
Meru South. Simon Gietl interview after Goldfish first ascent with Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli
15/06/2023 - Interviews
Meru South. Simon Gietl interview after Goldfish first ascent with Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli
Interview with Simon Gietl after the first ascent of Goldfish on Meru South in India, carried out alpine style from 11 - 13 May 2023 with Mathieu Maynadier and Roger Schäli. Interview by Bulgarian journalist Tanya Ivanova.
New route on Meru South in India climbed by Simon Gietl, Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli
19/05/2023 - Alpinism
New route on Meru South in India climbed by Simon Gietl, Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli
European mountaineers Simon Gietl, Mathieu Maynadier and Roger Schäli have successfully climbed a new route on Meru South (6600m) in India. The new route on the mountain's east face was climbed alpine style and is called Goldfish (800m, M6+ A1).

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