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Mountain stories: Courmayeur, August 2010
02/08/2010 - Events
Mountain stories: Courmayeur, August 2010
4 evenings and 4 great mountaineering stories as told by Valery Babanov, Hans Kammerlander, Silvio Mondinelli and Stevie Haston. The evenings will be introduced by Vinicio Stefanello, editor of PlanetMountain.com.
Tingeling, new link-up on Blamann by Hansjörg Auer & Much Mayr
29/07/2010 - Climbing
Tingeling, new link-up on Blamann by Hansjörg Auer & Much Mayr
The Austrians Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have established Tingeling (400m 7c+), a new free enchainement up the massive granite Blamann tower. Due to prohibitive conditions the route still awaits its first continuous redpoint ascent.
Cassin Route, Walker Spur, Grandes Jorasses
28/07/2010 - Alpinism
Cassin Route, Walker Spur, Grandes Jorasses
The details of an immortal route: the Cassin route up the Walker Super on the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc) introduced by Mountain Guide Enrico Bonino who climbed the route last week with an (extremely strong) client, Max Lucco.
Camaleontica, new trad route in Sardinia by Larcher and Oviglia
20/07/2010 - Alpinism
Camaleontica, new trad route in Sardinia by Larcher and Oviglia
On 14 and 21 June 2010 Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established their Camaleontica (290m, 7a+ max 6c+ obbl.), a new trad route up the north face of Punta Cusidore, Supramonte, Sardinia
Venere Peak tough acclimatisation for Barmasse, Bernasconi and Panzeri prior to the North Face of Gasherbrum I
13/07/2010 - Alpinism
Venere Peak tough acclimatisation for Barmasse, Bernasconi and Panzeri prior to the north face of Gasherbrum I
Hervé Barmasse, Daniele Bernasconi and Mario Panzeri have carried out the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed Venere Peak (6300m), China. A difficult acclimatisation before the next adventure, the virgin North Face of Gasherbrum 1.
Hansjörg Auer repeats Pan Aroma
02/07/2010 - Climbing
Hansjörg Auer repeats Pan Aroma
On 30/06/2010 the Austrian climber Hansjörg Auer carried out the first repeat of Pan Aroma 8c, Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
Grivel - Chabod, Aig. Blanche de Peuterey, ski descent
Grivel - Chabod, Aig. Blanche de Peuterey, ski descent
On 04/06/2010 Francesco Civra Dano and Luca Rolli skied the north face of Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (Mont Blanc) via the Grivel - Chabod route. The first and only ski descent was carried out in 1980 by Stefano De Benedetti.
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
27/05/2010 - Alpinism
the north face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
Contrary to what we published previously, the ascent by the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn is not the first ascent of the north face of Monte Sarmiento, as this had previously been climbed by an Italian Ragni...
Himalayan helicopter rescues
25/05/2010 - Alpinism
Himalayan helicopter rescues
Interview with Gerold Biner, operations manager of Air Zermatt, after the recent helicopter rescue missions in the Himalaya.
Checkmate by the Riegler brothers on Gran Zebrù
19/05/2010 - Alpinism
Checkmate by the Riegler brothers on Gran Zebrù
In winter 2010 Florian and Martin Riegler carried out the first ascent of Schachmatt - Checkmate- 1000m M10+ WI5 55°) on the north face of Gran Zebrù.
Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
23/04/2010 - Alpinism
Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
At the start of April the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn reached the West summit of Monte Sarmiento (2145m) via a new route up the north face.
  • CORRECTION 05/2010: the north face had already been climbed by an...
  • Ginat route, les Droites, Ueli Steck solo video
    21/04/2010 - Alpinism
    Ginat route, les Droites, Ueli Steck solo video
    In January 2010 Ueli Steck soloed the Ginat route (ED,V, M4+, 85°, 1000m) up the north face of Les Droites in 2:08. Check out the video and interview.
    Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
    12/04/2010 - Events
    Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
    The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award;...
    Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
    30/03/2010 - Events
    Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
    The Piolet d'Or 2010 will take place from 8 - 10 April in the towns of Courmayeur and Chamonix with a series of conferences, debates, films, meetings and other cultural activities. The event begins on Thursday 8 April in Courmayeur...
    Khumbu new climbs
    17/02/2010 - Alpinism
    Khumbu new climbs
    At the end of 2009 Enrico Bonino, Nicolas Melis and Francesco Cantù establised three new routes in the Khumbu valley, Nepal.
    Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps
    11/02/2010 - Alpinism
    Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps
    Almost unreal winter conditions in the Slovenian Alps have resulted in a flurry of interesting ascents. Slovenian alpinist Andrej Grmovšek provides the report.