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Non ci resta che piangere, first free ascent by the Riegler brothers
17/01/2012 - Alpinism
Non ci resta che piangere, first free ascent by the Riegler brothers
On 12/01/2012 Florian ande Martin Riegler made the first free ascent of Non ci resta che piangere IX+/X- (Sella, Dolomites).
Severino Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis and the crag Coup di Rore
11/01/2012 - Climbing
Severino Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis and the crag Coup di Rore
Severino "Seve" Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis have freed an old route at the crag Coup di Rore in Val Varaita (Piemonte, Italy). Established with the use of aid during the 1970's, the route breaches the large roof and remained...
Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Venas Azules on Torre Egger in Patagonia. The interview and meeting with Rolando Garibotti
04/01/2012 - Alpinism
Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Venas Azules on Torre Egger in Patagonia. The interview and meeting with Rolando Garibotti
Rolando Garibotti and the interview and meeting with Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, the Norwegian alpinist who in December 2011 together with Ole Lied established the route Venas Azules up the South Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia.
Johnny Dawes - the rock climbing interview
23/12/2011 - Interviews
Johnny Dawes - the rock climbing interview
Interview with Johnny Dawes, one of the most talented and influential British climbers of all times.
Let’s get wild, new route in Patagonia by Schaeli and Gietl
22/12/2011 - Alpinism
Let’s get wild, new route in Patagonia by Schaeli and Gietl
This December Roger Schaeli and Simon Gietl established Let's get wild (600m, 7a, 90°), their new route up Aguja Guillaumet (2579m) in Patagonia.
Ben Hur on Wenden onsight for Reto Ruhstaller
28/11/2011 - Climbing
Ben Hur on Wenden onsight for Reto Ruhstaller
On 19/11/2011 Reto Ruhstaller made what is likely to be the first onsight ascent of Ben Hur 7c+ on the Wendenstöcke, Switzerland
Archon, 8b trad in Germany's Frankenjura
25/11/2011 - Climbing
Archon, 8b trad in Germany's Frankenjura
On 06/11/2011 Patrick Matros established Archon, an 8b trad route in the Frankenjura, Germany.
Pietro dal Prà, two new routes on Lastia de Gardes
14/11/2011 - Climbing
Pietro dal Prà, two new routes on Lastia de Gardes
Italian climber Pietro dal Prà together with Alessandro Rudatis has established two difficult new multi-pitches, In mezzo poco (400m, 8a+) and Gracias a la Vida (270m, 8a+) up Lastia de Gardes in the Italian Dolomites.
Petzl Rock Trip - Valley Gétû, China
11/11/2011 - Climbing
Petzl Rock Trip - Valley Gétû, China
From 26 to 30 October 2011 the 10th Petzl Rock Trip took place in Getu Valley, China. Many of the world's best climbers took part in the event dedicated to climbing and partying. Gabriele Moroni from Italy managed to free...
Millennium Bug at Cala Gonone, new route by Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia in Sardinia
10/11/2011 - Climbing
Millennium Bug at Cala Gonone, new route by Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia in Sardinia
On 19/10/2011 Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia freed Millennium Bug (7b+, 110m), their new multi-pitch outing established ground-up across the beautiful Millennium cave at Cala Gonone in Sardinia. A particular route, perhaps unique even. The report by Maurizio Oviglia.
Pietro dal Prà, two new routes on Lastia de Gardes
08/11/2011 - Alpinism
Pietro dal Prà, two new routes on Lastia de Gardes
Italian climber Pietro dal Prà together with Alessandro Rudatis has established two difficult new multi-pitches, In mezzo poco (400m, 8a+) and Gracias a la Vida (270m, 8a+) up Lastia de Gardes in the Italian Dolomites.
Cose Turche in Ala Daglar, new route by Bernasconi and Spini in Turkey
08/11/2011 - Climbing
Cose Turche in Ala Daglar, new route by Bernasconi and Spini in Turkey
Matteo Bernasconi and Davide Spini have established Cose Turche (300m 7a obligatory/8b?) up Kazilin Basi (2944m) in the Ala Daglar, Turkey.
Chasin the Trane greenpoint in the Frankenjura
07/11/2011 - Climbing
Chasin the Trane greenpoint in the Frankenjura
German climber Heiko Queitsch has climbed the famous Frankenjura routes Fight Gravity (by Kurt Albert) and Chasin the Train (by John Bachar) without using the bolts but with trad gear.
Dreams of Youth, new desperate Tsaranoro multi-pitch in Madagascar
05/11/2011 - Climbing
Dreams of Youth, new desperate Tsaranoro multi-pitch in Madagascar
In August 2011 German climbers Martin Schindele, Lukas Binder, Philipp Hofmann and Tobias Baur established Dreams of Youth (8c, 700m) up Tsaranoro Atsimo, Madagascar.
Shakti, new route for Riccardo Scarian
02/11/2011 - Climbing
Shakti, new route for Riccardo Scarian
On 17/10/2011 Riccardo Scarian carried out the first free ascent of Shakti (200m, max 8b+/8c, obl. 7c/8a), the route he had established in August 2011 with various partners up the SW Face of Picco delle Aquile, Monte Coppolo, Valnuvola.
Cerro Kishtwar important Himalayan first ascent for David Lama, Stephan Siegrist, Denis Burdet and Rob Frost
30/10/2011 - Alpinism
Cerro Kishtwar important Himalayan first ascent for David Lama, Stephan Siegrist, Denis Burdet and Rob Frost
David Lama, Stephan Siegrist, Denis Burdet and Rob Frost have established a new route up the NW Face via their Yoniverse to reach the summit of Cerro Kishtwar (6155m), Himalaya. Siegrist and Burdet then ascended the nearby untouched 6040m peak...