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Dreamtime, a dream which vanished for a second only
16/11/2009 - Climbing
Dreamtime, a dream which vanished for a second only
Michele Caminati talks about the broken hold on Dreamtime, the legendary boulder problem established by Fred Nicole in 2000 at Cresciano, Switzerland.
Tomaz Humar rescue attempt in Nepal
12/11/2009 - Alpinism
Tomaz Humar rescue attempt in Nepal
A rescue team belonging to the Swiss Mountain Rescue Station Air Zermatt is on its way to Nepal to try to help Slovenian mountaineer Tomaz Humar. Humar is injured and stranded at about 6300 meters on Langtang Lirung’s north...
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
16/10/2009 - Climbing
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
Interview with Jenny Lavarda after the first free ascent of "Solo per vecchi guerrieri" (150m, 8c+/9a, Vette Feltrine, Dolomites), first ascended by Manolo and repeated by Mario Prinoth and Riccardo Scarian. She was accompanied by Marco Ronchi who also managed...
Martin and Florian Riegler, Flying Penguin and the Rocky Mountains
06/10/2009 - Alpinism
Martin and Florian Riegler, Flying Penguin and the Rocky Mountains
Interview with Martin and Florian Riegler after their climbing trips to the Bugaboos, Canada, where they carried out the first ascent of "The flying penguin" (300m, 5.12b)on the South Face of Pigeon Feathers.
Rocklands bouldering, Kilian Fischhuber flies Airstar
05/10/2009 - Climbing
Rocklands bouldering, Kilian Fischhuber flies Airstar
In August 2009 Kilian Fischhuber from Austria freed Airstar Fb8b, a long-standing problem at Rocklands, South Africa.
New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
21/09/2009 - Alpinism
New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
On 10 August the Italian expedition Karakorum 2009 comprised of Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni, Michele Cagol and Elio Orlandi completed their new route The Children of Hushe (1100m, 7b A2) up the West Pillar of K7 (Charakusa Valley, Pakistan). On...
Baffin Island climbing, The Belgarian and more for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
08/09/2009 - Climbing
Baffin Island climbing, The Belgarian and more for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Stéphane Hanssens and Olivier Favresse have recently returned from an expedition to Baffin Island where they carried out the first ascents of 3 different routes and attempted to free climb the Bavarian Direct on the South...
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
03/09/2009 - Climbing
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
On 24/08/2009 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla made the first ascent of "Eternit", the extension to "O ce l’hai… o ne hai bisogno" at Baule. The grade put forward is 9a but above all Manolo believes this route has taken his vertical...
In memory of Michele Fait
24/06/2009 - Climbing
In memory of Michele Fait
On 23 June the Italian mountaineer Michele Fait lost his life skiing from Camp 2 on the Cesen route on K2.
Picos de Europa, Naranjo de Bulnes, rock climbing in Spain's secretive mountain paradise
15/06/2009 - Climbing
Picos de Europa, Naranjo de Bulnes, rock climbing in Spain's secretive mountain paradise
The mysterious place that everyone seems to have heard about, but where not many have dared venture! Under-rated and often overlooked, the Picos de Europa is Northern Spain's hidden secret! Consisting of a huge area of wild limestone peaks, it...
Jerry Moffatt interview
26/02/2009 - Interviews
Jerry Moffatt interview
Interview with Jerry Moffatt, one of the most successful climbers in the world during the 1980's and 1990's, with important first ascents such as Stone Love 8b+ in Germany's Frankenjura and Liquid Ambar 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales and...
Paine South African Route, interview with Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
12/02/2009 - Alpinism
Paine South African Route, interview with Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
Interview with Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto after their first free ascent of the South African Route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia.
First winter ascent of Makalu: interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko
11/02/2009 - Alpinism
First winter ascent of Makalu: interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko
Interview with Simone Moro from Italy and Denis Urubko from Kazakhstan after the first winter ascent of Makalu.
Riegler brothers and Pandora: multi-pitch first ascent in Arco
31/12/2008 - Climbing
Riegler brothers and Pandora: multi-pitch first ascent in Arco
In September 2008 Martin and Florian Riegler made the first ascent of "Pandora" (8 pitches, max 8b) on the Mandrea wall at Arco, Italy. In October the two South Tyroleans redpointed all pitches individually, but the route still awaits its...
Cerro Torre Ragni route for Bernasconi and Salini
07/12/2008 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre Ragni route for Bernasconi and Salini
On 2 December the Italians Matteo Bernasconi and Fabio Salini carried out a fast ascent of the Via dei Ragni on the West Face of Cerro Torre, Patagonia. This route was also climbed the previous day by Rolando Garibotti and...
Slovenian climbs in Central Tien Shan
18/11/2008 - Alpinism
Slovenian climbs in Central Tien Shan
Last summer Ales Holc, Matej Smrkolj e Tadej Kriselj carried out the first ascent of Slovenian birthday party (TD+, 1000m) on the North Face of Pik Parashutny 5360m. Tine Marence and Andrej Magajne carried out the probabile first repeat of...

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