836 News found
18/09/2009 - Climbing
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland have made the first free ascent of the famous "Japanese Diretissima" on the North Face of Eiger. The route now goes free at 8a and is a very serious alpine undertaking...
06/09/2009 - Competitions
Eiter and Puigblanque reign supreme at Rock Master 2009! Angela Eiter from Austria has won her fifth Rock Master, Ramòn Julien Puigblanque his fourth. With these victories the two equal the records set by legendary climbers Lynn Hill and Francois Legrand.
03/09/2009 - Climbing
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule On 24/08/2009 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla made the first ascent of "Eternit", the extension to "O ce l’hai… o ne hai bisogno" at Baule. The grade put forward is 9a but above all Manolo believes this route has taken his vertical...
06/08/2009 - Climbing
The biggest cathedral in the world: Florian Riegler and Via della Cattedrale on the Marmolada, Dolomites Last June Florian Riegler, climbing with Rebecca Finch, climbed "Via della cattedrale" (max 8a+, 21 pitches) on the South Face of the Marmolada in 12 hours. This is probably the first repeat after the first free ascent at the hands...
29/06/2009 - Climbing
Stanage Edge, rock climbing at England's most famous gritstone crag Stanage Edge is the most famous gritstone crag in England. Located in the Peak District National Park, this 7km outcrop hosts over 1300 climbs of all grades.
23/06/2009 - Climbing
Stanage Edge, rock climbing in England Stanage Edge is the most famous gritstone crag in England. Located in the Peak District National Park, this 7km outcrop hosts over 1300 climbs of all grades.
09/06/2009 - Alpinism
In memory of Giuliano De Marchi On 5 June Giuliano De Marchi, a doctor and strong mountaineer from Belluno, died on Monte Antelao, Dolomites. Michel Barbiero, his companion in Alaska 2007, remembers him.
12/05/2009 - Competitions
Mezzalama 2009 – an emotional story The XVII Mezzalama Trophy took place on Monte Rosa on 02/05/2009. The legendary ski mountaineering competition was won by Manfred Reichegger, Matteo Eydallin and Denis Trento in a record breaking 4:01'22. The women's event was won by Francesca Martinelli, Roberta...
05/05/2009 - Alpinism
Jobo Rinjang first ascent by Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb Americans Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb have made the first ascent of Jobo Rinjang (6,778 meters) via the direct South Face. This mountain is a satellite summit in the Lunag massif, Khumbu Region of Nepal.
04/05/2009 - Climbing
First ascents in Piritas Valley, Rio Turbio, Patagonia In February a small American team of climbers carried out a first ascent of Voces en la Noche, (V 5.11 A0) on Pirita Right in the remote Argentian Piritas Valley, Rio Turbio, while a Canadian team produced Todos los Caballos...
10/04/2009 - Alpinism
Piotr Morawski dies on Dhaulagiri Polish mountaineer Piotr Morawski died on Dhaulagiri on 8 April after falling 20m into a crevasse. Piotr Drozdz, a friend and editor of the Polish Gory magazine, has sent us this text in memory of Morawski.
31/03/2009 - Alpinism
Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig On 13 and 14 March Luca Vuerich and Massimo Laurencig carried out the first winter ascent of the difficult Fessura Lomasti (400m, VI, pass. di VIII-) on the pre-summit of Cima Grande della Scala (Val Riofreddo, Julian Alps, Italy).
26/03/2009 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps Interview with Paolo Rabbia who from 29/12/2008 to 28/02/2009 carried out the first ski mountaineering traverse of the Alps in winter without the help of mechanical transport.
24/03/2009 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Conturines south gully: first ski descent of Tremolada and Oberbacher On 19 March Andrea Oberbacher and Francesco Tremolada carried out the first ski descent of the long and much-eyed Conturines south gully. On 15 March Tremolada had also carried the probable first repeat of the south gully on Piz Ciavazes,...
18/03/2009 - Alpinism
Sottoguda ice climbing, Marmolada, Dolomites A selection of icefalls at Sottoguda, one of the most important venues in NE Italy.
09/03/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on Repentance was first climbed in Cogne, Valle d'Aosta in 1989 by François Damilano, Fulvio Conta and Giancarlo Grassi and soon became the symbol of a new ice climbing era in the Alps. Twenty years after the first ascent Damilano and...
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