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Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
18/09/2009 - Climbing
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland have made the first free ascent of the famous "Japanese Diretissima" on the North Face of Eiger. The route now goes free at 8a and is a very serious alpine undertaking...
Eiter and Puigblanque reign supreme at Rock Master 2009!
06/09/2009 - Competitions
Eiter and Puigblanque reign supreme at Rock Master 2009!
Angela Eiter from Austria has won her fifth Rock Master, Ramòn Julien Puigblanque his fourth. With these victories the two equal the records set by legendary climbers Lynn Hill and Francois Legrand.
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
03/09/2009 - Climbing
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
On 24/08/2009 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla made the first ascent of "Eternit", the extension to "O ce l’hai… o ne hai bisogno" at Baule. The grade put forward is 9a but above all Manolo believes this route has taken his vertical...
The biggest cathedral in the world: Florian Riegler and Via della Cattedrale on the Marmolada, Dolomites
06/08/2009 - Climbing
The biggest cathedral in the world: Florian Riegler and Via della Cattedrale on the Marmolada, Dolomites
Last June Florian Riegler, climbing with Rebecca Finch, climbed "Via della cattedrale" (max 8a+, 21 pitches) on the South Face of the Marmolada in 12 hours. This is probably the first repeat after the first free ascent at the hands...
Stanage Edge, rock climbing at England's most famous gritstone crag
29/06/2009 - Climbing
Stanage Edge, rock climbing at England's most famous gritstone crag
Stanage Edge is the most famous gritstone crag in England. Located in the Peak District National Park, this 7km outcrop hosts over 1300 climbs of all grades.
Stanage Edge, rock climbing in England
23/06/2009 - Climbing
Stanage Edge, rock climbing in England
Stanage Edge is the most famous gritstone crag in England. Located in the Peak District National Park, this 7km outcrop hosts over 1300 climbs of all grades.
In memory of Giuliano De Marchi
09/06/2009 - Alpinism
In memory of Giuliano De Marchi
On 5 June Giuliano De Marchi, a doctor and strong mountaineer from Belluno, died on Monte Antelao, Dolomites. Michel Barbiero, his companion in Alaska 2007, remembers him.
Mezzalama 2009 – an emotional story
12/05/2009 - Competitions
Mezzalama 2009 – an emotional story
The XVII Mezzalama Trophy took place on Monte Rosa on 02/05/2009. The legendary ski mountaineering competition was won by Manfred Reichegger, Matteo Eydallin and Denis Trento in a record breaking 4:01'22. The women's event was won by Francesca Martinelli, Roberta...
Jobo Rinjang first ascent by Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb
05/05/2009 - Alpinism
Jobo Rinjang first ascent by Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb
Americans Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb have made the first ascent of Jobo Rinjang (6,778 meters) via the direct South Face. This mountain is a satellite summit in the Lunag massif, Khumbu Region of Nepal.
First ascents in Piritas Valley, Rio Turbio, Patagonia
04/05/2009 - Climbing
First ascents in Piritas Valley, Rio Turbio, Patagonia
In February a small American team of climbers carried out a first ascent of Voces en la Noche, (V 5.11 A0) on Pirita Right in the remote Argentian Piritas Valley, Rio Turbio, while a Canadian team produced Todos los Caballos...
Piotr Morawski dies on Dhaulagiri
10/04/2009 - Alpinism
Piotr Morawski dies on Dhaulagiri
Polish mountaineer Piotr Morawski died on Dhaulagiri on 8 April after falling 20m into a crevasse. Piotr Drozdz, a friend and editor of the Polish Gory magazine, has sent us this text in memory of Morawski.
Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig
31/03/2009 - Alpinism
Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig
On 13 and 14 March Luca Vuerich and Massimo Laurencig carried out the first winter ascent of the difficult Fessura Lomasti (400m, VI, pass. di VIII-) on the pre-summit of Cima Grande della Scala (Val Riofreddo, Julian Alps, Italy).
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Interview with Paolo Rabbia who from 29/12/2008 to 28/02/2009 carried out the first ski mountaineering traverse of the Alps in winter without the help of mechanical transport.
Conturines south gully: first ski descent of Tremolada and Oberbacher
Conturines south gully: first ski descent of Tremolada and Oberbacher
On 19 March Andrea Oberbacher and Francesco Tremolada carried out the first ski descent of the long and much-eyed Conturines south gully. On 15 March Tremolada had also carried the probable first repeat of the south gully on Piz Ciavazes,...
Sottoguda ice climbing, Marmolada, Dolomites
18/03/2009 - Alpinism
Sottoguda ice climbing, Marmolada, Dolomites
A selection of icefalls at Sottoguda, one of the most important venues in NE Italy.
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
09/03/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
Repentance was first climbed in Cogne, Valle d'Aosta in 1989 by François Damilano, Fulvio Conta and Giancarlo Grassi and soon became the symbol of a new ice climbing era in the Alps. Twenty years after the first ascent Damilano and...

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