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Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard Titanic interview
13/12/2016 - Alpinism
Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard Titanic interview
Interview with British alpinist Tom Ballard after the first ascent of ‘Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 2000m), a new climb up the North Face of the Eiger (Switzerland), first ascended together with Marcin Tomaszewski from 29 November to 6 December 2016.
Tibet's Jang Tsang Go climbed by Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson & Marcus Palm
10/11/2016 - Alpinism
Tibet's Jang Tsang Go climbed by Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson & Marcus Palm
On 20 September 2016 Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson and Marcus Palm made what is likely to be the first ascent of Jang Tsang Go (6300m) in Tibet. The route is called Dom and graded AI4 M5.
Kyzyl Asker success for Ines Papert and Luka Lindič
26/10/2016 - Alpinism
Kyzyl Asker success for Ines Papert and Luka Lindič
Alpinists Luka Lindič and Ines Papert have made the first ascent of 'Lost in China' (ED, WI 5+, M6, 1200m) up the SE Face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m), Kyrgyzstan.
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
20/07/2016 - Alpinism
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
Thoughts about the history of mountaineering. The solo winter trilogy carried out by Ivan Ghirardini up the legendary three North Faces of the Alps: the Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses and Eiger. By Ivo Ferrari.
Tangra Tower Cory Hall Memorial expedition in Pakistan's Khane Valley
13/11/2015 - Alpinism
Tangra Tower Cory Hall Memorial expedition in Pakistan's Khane Valley
James Monypenny reports about the attempt, carried out together with Max Fisher to climb Tangra Tower (5,620m) situated in Khane Valley in Pakistan's Karakoram in memory of Cory Hall.
Pelmo North Face winter ascent. A climbing story for commanders only
29/09/2015 - Alpinism
Pelmo North Face winter ascent. A climbing story for commanders only
Ivo Ferrari retraces the winter repeat of the Pelmo North Face, carried out in the Dolomites by Soro Dorotei, Renato Panciera and Giuliano De Marchi. One of the most memorable stories of alpinism and winter mountaineering
Mount Malaspina in Canada first ascended by Natalia Martinez and Camilo Rada
25/08/2015 - Alpinism
Mount Malaspina in Canada first ascended by Natalia Martinez and Camilo Rada
On 15 August 2015 Natalia Martinez from Argentina and Camilo Rada from Chile made the first ascent of Mount Malaspina (3,776 meters), Saint Elias Mountains, Yukon, Canada. The two climbed what was reputed to be the "highest named unclimbed mountain...
Jon Griffith and Will Sim make alpine-style first ascent of NW Face of Mt Deborah in Alaska
04/06/2015 - Alpinism
Jon Griffith and Will Sim make alpine-style first ascent of NW Face of Mt Deborah in Alaska
British alpinists Jon Griffith and Will Sim have made the first ascent of Bad to the Bone, the first route to climb the NW Face of Mt Deborah in Alaska.
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr claim unclimbed Mt. Reaper in Alaska
01/06/2015 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr claim unclimbed Mt. Reaper in Alaska
On 17/05/2015 Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed Mt. Reaper in Alaska via their North Face route Sugar Man (M7, 85°, A1, 750m).
New ice climbs in Chile by Cecilia Buil and Anna Torretta in Chile
06/08/2014 - Alpinism
New ice climbs in Chile by Cecilia Buil and Anna Torretta in Chile
In mid-July Cecilia Buil from Spain and Anna Torretta from Italy made the first ascent of La Gioconda (160m, WI 6) a new ice climb on the glacier Cerro El Marmolejo (6109m, Chile) to which they then added the variation...
BMC International Winter Meet 2014, the report by Tito Arosio
13/02/2014 - Alpinism
BMC International Winter Meet 2014, the report by Tito Arosio
Tito Arosio from Italy reports about the BMC International Winter Climbing Meet that took place in Scotland from 26 January to 2 February 2014.
Nepal new climbs by Christopher Wright and Scott Adamson
21/12/2013 - Alpinism
Nepal new climbs by Christopher Wright and Scott Adamson
In October in Nepal's Khumbu region American alpinists Scott Adamson and Christopher Wright have made the first ascent of Open Fire (V WI5 M3 1000m) and one called Purgation (VI WI6+ M6 1100m).
Ermanno Salvaterra and the Torre Egger attempt in Patagonia
09/12/2013 - Alpinism
Ermanno Salvaterra and the Torre Egger attempt in Patagonia
Italian alpinist Ermanno Salvaterra recounts his recent attempt up the West Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia, carried out with Tomas Franchini, Paolo Grisa and Francesco Salvaterra in November. During the last expedition days Tomas Franchini and Francesco Salvaterra made...
Ueli Steck and Annapurna: the interview after his South Face solo
14/10/2013 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck and Annapurna: the interview after his South Face solo
Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck talks about his fast and impressive solo ascent up the South Face of Annapurna South (8091m, Nepal, Himalaya) that on 8 and 9 October 2013 enabled him to make the first ascent of the direct line...
Hansjörg Auer and Simon Anthamatten, the interview after Kunyang Chhish East
23/08/2013 - Interviews
Hansjörg Auer and Simon Anthamatten, the interview after Kunyang Chhish East
Interview with Hansjörg Auer and Simon Anthamatten after the historic first ascent of Kunyang Chhish East, Karakorum, Pakistan, carried out in July 2013 together with Matthias Auer up the formidable SW Face.
Sagwand first winter ascent by Auer, Lama and Ortner
20/03/2013 - Alpinism
Sagwand first winter ascent by Auer, Lama and Ortner
On 16 and 17 March 2013 the highly experienced Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer, David Lama and Peter Ortner made the first winter ascent of the Sagwand via the route Schiefer Riss first climbed by Mathias Rebitsch and Roland Berger in...