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Kangchung Shar North Face first ascent by Jaroslava Bansky, Zdenek Hak
20/05/2021 - Alpinism
Kangchung Shar North Face first ascent by Jaroslava Bansky, Zdenek Hak
Czech alpinists Zdeněk Hák and Jaroslava Bánský have successfully completed the first traverse of Kangchung Shar (6030m) in Nepal. They climbed the north face of the mountain into the saddle between Kangchung Shar and Cholo, then followed the NW ridge...
Heart of Stone on Mount Huntington in Alaska. Luka Lindič reports
11/05/2021 - Alpinism
Heart of Stone on Mount Huntington in Alaska. Luka Lindič reports
Luka Lindič reports about the first ascent, carried out with Ines Papert, of Heart of Stone on Mount Huntington’s West face, Central Denali Range, Alaska in April 2021.
Cimon della Pala, Dolomites: Emanuele Andreozzi, Matteo Faletti establish Elements of Life
13/04/2021 - Alpinism
Cimon della Pala, Dolomites: Emanuele Andreozzi, Matteo Faletti establish Elements of Life
Alpinists Emanuele Andreozzi and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of Elements of Life (900m, AI5/M6), a spectacular mixed climb up the north face of Cimon della Pala in the Pale di San Martino group of the Italian Dolomites.
T’enflammes pas, new mixed climb on Flammes de Pierre in Mont Blanc massif
02/04/2021 - Alpinism
T’enflammes pas, new mixed climb on Flammes de Pierre in Mont Blanc massif
Aymeric Clouet, Mathieu Maynadier and Charles Noirot have established T’enflammes pas, a new mixed climb on Flammes de Pierre in the Mont Blanc massif.
Dani Arnold, Roger Schäli establish Egidius on Gross Ruchen in Switzerland
14/12/2020 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold, Roger Schäli establish Egidius on Gross Ruchen in Switzerland
Swiss alpinists Dani Arnold and Roger Schäli have established Egidius, a new mixed climb on the north face of Gross Ruchen (3137m) in the Glarus Alps in Switzerland. Arnold had previously attempted the line with Stephan Ruoss in 2009.
K6 Central first ascent in Pakistan by Priti and Jeff Wright
06/11/2020 - Alpinism
K6 Central first ascent in Pakistan by Priti and Jeff Wright
American alpinists Priti and Jeff Wright made the first ascent of K6 Central (7,155m) in the Karakorum in Pakistan on 9 October 2020, a day after making the third ascent of K6 West (7140m). The Wright’s report about their impressive alpine...
Sani Pakkush South Face first ascent by Symon Welfringer, Pierrick Fine
28/10/2020 - Alpinism
Sani Pakkush South Face first ascent by Symon Welfringer, Pierrick Fine
Climbing in alpine style, from 16 - 20 October 2020 French alpinists Symon Welfringer and Pierrick Fine made the first ascent of the virgin South Face of Sani Pakush, a 6951m peak in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Welfringer reports about their...
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
01/10/2020 - Alpinism
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
In September 2020 Georgian mountaineers made a 16-day trip to Svaneti in Central Caucasus and completed two new routes. The first, by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Levan Lashkarashvili, up the SW Face of Ailama (4,547m), the second by Badriashvili...
From Hell to Heaven, Hervé Barmasse and Stefano Perrone climb new route in Piantonetto Valley, Italy
27/08/2020 - Alpinism
From Hell to Heaven, Hervé Barmasse and Stefano Perrone climb new route in Piantonetto Valley, Italy
Italian alpinist Hervé Barmasse reports about Dall'inferno al Paradiso, from hell to heaven, a new multi-pitch rock climb on Torre del Gran San Pietro above the Piantonetto Valley (Orco Valley, Gran Paradiso National Park, Italy) first ascended with Stefano Perrone.
A perfect Patagonia premiere. By Raphaela Haug
28/04/2020 - Alpinism
A perfect Patagonia premiere. By Raphaela Haug
German alpinist Raphaela Haug talks about her first trip to Patagonia with climbing partner Laura Tiefenthaler, during which they climbed Cerro Torre and, with Barbara Vigl, ascended Fitz Roy.
Aiguille du Plan Mystery solved by Ondrej Húserka and Evka Milovská
30/03/2020 - Alpinism
Aiguille du Plan Mystery solved by Ondrej Húserka and Evka Milovská
From 21 to 22 February Slovak mountaineers Ondrej Húserka and Evka Milovská made the first ascent of Mystery (85 °, M8, C1, 600m (15 pitches) on Aiguille du Plan in the Mont Blanc massif. Húserka reports.
Julien Herry, Yannick Boissenot score new new descent on Aiguille du Peigne in Mont Blanc massif
Julien Herry, Yannick Boissenot score new new descent on Aiguille du Peigne in Mont Blanc massif
On 9 February 2020 Julien Herry and Yannick Boissenot made what is likely to be the first ski and snowboard descent of the Boeuf - Sara couloir on Aiguille du Peigne in the Mont Blanc massif. Herry reports.
Greg Boswell, Jeff Mercier discover unclimbed ice around Lofoten and Tennevoll in Norway
17/02/2020 - Alpinism
Greg Boswell, Jeff Mercier discover unclimbed ice around Lofoten and Tennevoll in Norway
Scottish mountaineer Greg Boswell reports about his winter climbing trip with France's Jeff Mercier to the Lofoten area in Norway which resulted in a series of new ice and mixed climbs.
Marc-Andre's Visión completed on Torre Egger in Patagonia
14/02/2020 - Alpinism
Marc-Andre's Visión completed on Torre Egger in Patagonia
Brette Harrington, Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton have completed Marc-Andre’s Visión, a new route up the East Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia envisaged in 2016 by the late Marc-André Leclerc.
Rochers de Gagnières, Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet add mixed climb to Chablais Alps
04/02/2020 - Alpinism
Rochers de Gagnières, Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet add mixed climb to Chablais Alps
On 25/01/2020 alpinists Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet made the first ascent of Fury Road (600m, M6 WI6 45°), a new mixed climb up the north face of the Rochers de Gagnières, not far from the Dent du Midi mountain...
Climbing in Sudan, new routes in Taka mountains above Kassala
25/01/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing in Sudan, new routes in Taka mountains above Kassala
Chris Warner from Australia reports about a rock climbing trip to Kassala in western Sudan with Jonny Baker which resulted in a handful of new routes in the Taka Mountains,