204 News found
12/08/2020 - Alpinism
Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs Four remarkable ascents will be awarded the Piolets d'Or 2020 at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland from 11 - 22 September: Chamlang by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák, Tengi Ragi Tau by Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva, Link Sar...
07/08/2020 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz speed solo ascent of Mont Blanc Integralissima de Peuterey Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz has made a solo ascent of the Integralissima de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif in an astounding 17 hours. This is the first repeat of the 'Longest ridge in the Alps’, first climbed in full...
23/07/2020 - Alpinism
Catherine Destivelle awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award French mountaineer Catherine Destivelle will become the first woman to receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland in September. In the past the coveted prize has been awarded to greatest mountaineers of...
10/07/2020 - Alpinism
Mont Blanc's Digital Crack repeated by Marco Sappa Marco Sappa has repeated the famous Digital Crack, first ascended in 1990 by Thierry Renault and Alain Ghersen on the Grand Gendarme of the Arête des Cosmiques in the Mont Blanc massif. The Italian mountain guide reports.
08/07/2020 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2020: the big list
of significant ascents The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2019. From this they will select the recipients of the Piolets d'Or award that will be celebrated during...
29/05/2020 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Mont Blanc: Edmond Joyeusaz skis Brenva Face Comino-Grassi route On Monday 25 May 2020 the Italian mountain guide Edmond Joyeusaz skied from the summit of Mont Blanc down the Comino - Grassi route on the Brenva face, following the line first ascended in 1979 by Gianni Comino and Gian...
25/05/2020 - Climbing
Climbing at Valgrisenche: Marco Sappa frees La Fessura di Gianfri at Nid Des Hirondelles Marco Sappa reports about the first ascent of La Fessura di Gianfri, a difficult trad crack climb at the historic crag Nid Des Hirondelles in Valgrisenche, Valle d’Aosta, Italy. The route is dedicated to his father Gianfranco Sappa, a courmayeur...
01/05/2020 - Alpinism
Chris Bonington - Life and Climbs, the film about legendary British mountaineer now online The docu-film Chris Bonington - Life and Climbs (2015, 22 minutes) is now online. Directed by Vinicio Stefanello for the Municipality of courmayeur, in this film great British mountaineer tells his life story.
25/09/2019 - Environment
Mont Blanc Planpincieux glacier in danger of collapsing The Planpincieux glacier on the Italian side of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc) is at risk of collapsing. The road into Val Ferret has been closed. And yet it seems as if nothing awakens us.
22/07/2019 - Alpinism
François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl speed up the Peutérey Integral, Mont Blanc The two mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl have carried out an extremely fast ascent of the Peutérey Integral Ridge in the Mont Blanc massif in just 12 hours and 12 minutes. The round-trip back to the starting point...
14/06/2019 - Alpinism
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award In September 2019 the Polish mountaineer Krzysztof Wielicki will receive the Piolets d'Or Carrière 2019. In the past this prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington, Wojciech Kurtyka,...
04/06/2019 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini completes solo ascent of Lamo She in China Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini has successfully made a solo ascent of the hitherto unclimbed East Face of Lamo She, a 6070m peak in China.
04/04/2019 - Alpinism
La Vierge du Flambeau in Mont Blanc massif / Miss Go by Ezio Marlier Ezio Marlier introduces the modern mixed climb Miss No which he first ascended with Elisabetta Ceaglio up the NE Face of La Vierge du Flambeau (3244m), Mont Blanc massif in April 2017.
18/03/2019 - Alpinism
Divine Providence on Mont Blanc climbed in winter by Xavier Cailhol, Symon Welfringer From 17- 19 February 2019 young French alpinists Xavier Cailhol and Symon Welfringer made a winter ascent of Divine Providence up Grand Pilier d’Angle, one of the most famous routes in the Mont Blanc massif.
12/03/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguille de la Brenva mixed climbs in Mont Blanc massif by Ezio Marlier, Gianpaolo Ducly Ezio Marlier introduces Million Reasons and Sole, two modern mixed climbs on the East Face of Aiguille de la Brenva in the Mont Blanc massif, established with Gianpaolo Ducly.
23/02/2019 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses Walker Spur Cassin route: double one-day winter ascent! On Tuesday 19 February the French alpinists Léo Billon, Sébastien Ratel and Benjamin Védrines carried out a one-day winter ascent of the Cassin route up the Walker Spur on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. A few hours later,...
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