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New Ranrapalca route in Peru by Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori, Giovanni Zaccaria
24/06/2022 - Alpinism
New Ranrapalca route in Peru by Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori, Giovanni Zaccaria
On 10/06/2022 on north face of Ranrapalca 6162m in Peru the Italian mountaineers Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori and Giovanni Zaccaria established a new mixed route alpine style. 'Mucha Banana', is 600m high with difficulties estimated at 80°, AI3+, M5.
Remembering Simone Badier, the great French alpinist
30/05/2022 - Alpinism
Remembering Simone Badier, the great French alpinist
Claude Gardien, historic editor-in-chief of the French magazine Vertical, remembers Simone Badier who passed away on 18 March 2022. Born in 1936 and as talented as she was discreet, she was one of the leading figures in women's climbing and...
Charles Dubouloz, Les Grandes Jorasses and his Rolling Stones winter solo
21/02/2022 - Interviews
Charles Dubouloz, Les Grandes Jorasses and his Rolling Stones winter solo
Interview with French mountaineer Charles Dubouloz who from 13 to 18 January 2022 made the first winter solo of Rolling Stones on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel, Benjamin Védrines climb Matterhorn to complete Winter Direttissima Alpine Trilogy
11/02/2022 - Alpinism
Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel, Benjamin Védrines climb Matterhorn to complete Winter Direttissima Alpine Trilogy
With their repeat of the Gogna-Cerruti climb on the Matterhorn the French mountaineers Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel and Benjamin Védrines have completed their project of climbing the three great north faces of the Alps in winter via three Direttissima.
Line van den Berg and Fay Manners make first female ascent of  Phantom Direct on Grandes Jorasses
10/02/2022 - Alpinism
Line van den Berg and Fay Manners make first female ascent of Phantom Direct on Grandes Jorasses
On the 26th of January 2022 Line van den Berg from the Netherlands and Fay Manners from Great Britain have made the first female ascent of 'Phantom Direct', also referred to as 'Via in memoria di Gianni Comino', established in...
Grandes Jorasses Directe de l'Amitié repeated by Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel, Benjamin Védrines
07/02/2022 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses Directe de l'Amitié repeated by Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel, Benjamin Védrines
From 24 to 26 January 2022 French mountaineers Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel and Benjamin Védrines repeated Directe de l'Amitié on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Changing Corners added to Pointe Adolphe Rey by Christophe Dumarest, Tom Livingstone
04/02/2022 - Alpinism
Changing Corners added to Pointe Adolphe Rey by Christophe Dumarest, Tom Livingstone
Alpinists Christophe Dumarest and Tom Livingstone have made the first ascent of Changing Corners (M7, 250m) on Pointe Adolphe Rey in the Mont Blanc massif.
Adieu Korra Pesce
02/02/2022 - Alpinism
Adieu Korra Pesce
Corrado 'Korra' Pesce, the Italian mountain guide known as one of the strongest climbers of his generation, lost his life on Cerro Torre in Patagonia.
Eiger Harlin Direttissima climbed in winter by Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel, Benjamin Védrines
27/01/2022 - Alpinism
Eiger Harlin Direttissima climbed in winter by Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel, Benjamin Védrines
From 12 to 16 January 2022 the French mountaineers Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel and Benjamin Védrines climbed the John Harlin Direttissima on the north face of the Eiger in alpine style and in winter.
Charles Dubouloz completes first solo of Grandes Jorasses Rolling Stones, in winter
20/01/2022 - Alpinism
Charles Dubouloz completes first solo of Grandes Jorasses Rolling Stones, in winter
From 13 to 18 January 2022, French alpinist Charles Dubouloz completed the first solo ascent of the famous mixed climb Rolling Stones on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
08/10/2021 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
The 2021 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be awarded in November at Briançon, France, to Pierrick Fine and Symon Welfringer for their ascent of Sani Pakkush and Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn for their ascent of Mount Robson. Catalan...
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Grandes Jorasses and complete North6 project
28/09/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Grandes Jorasses and complete North6 project
With the ascent of The Shroud route on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif, Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli have completed North6, their project to climb the six most famous north faces of the Alps, traveling from one...
Cerro Lomo Larga, first ski descent of south face by Raimundo De Andraca, Antonio Eguiguren
Cerro Lomo Larga, first ski descent of south face by Raimundo De Andraca, Antonio Eguiguren
Raimundo De Andraca and Antonio Eguiguren have made the first ski descent of the south face of Cerro Lomo Larga (5400m) in Chile's Central andes.
Petit Dru climbed by Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli as fifth north face in North6 project
24/09/2021 - Alpinism
Petit Dru climbed by Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli as fifth north face in North6 project
With their ascent of Petit Dru in the Mont Blanc massif, Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli have now climbed five of the six great north faces of the Alps. After Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile, Eiger, Matterhorn and Petit...
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Matterhorn Schmid route in North6 project
22/09/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Matterhorn Schmid route in North6 project
After Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile and the Eiger, alpinists Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli have now climbed the Matterhorn via the Schmid route. To complete their North6 project, only two famous north faces of the Alps are still...
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli start North6 project with Cima Grande di Lavaredo and Pizzo Badile
16/09/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli start North6 project with Cima Grande di Lavaredo and Pizzo Badile
With the ascents of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites and Pizzo Badile in the Central Alps, Italian mountaineer Simon Gietl and his Swiss counterpart Roger Schäli have successfully started their North6 project which aims to climb the six...

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