2051 News found
03/07/2019 - Alpinism
Grand Flambeau, Ezio Marlier discovers two mixed climbs in the Mont Blanc massif Mountaineering on Mont Blanc and a stone's throw from the Torino refuge: Aosta mountain guide Ezio Marlier introduces two new mixed climb on Grand Flambeau, Koala Pirla and La Vie in Rosa.
27/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska established from 13 - 23 May...
23/06/2019 - Alpinism
Karl Egloff sets new Denali Speed record in Alaska Ecuadorian - Swiss mountain guide Karl Egloff has set a new speed record on Denali in Alaska, climbing the West Buttress route in 7:40 and returning to his starting point in 11:44. In doing so he beat the previous fastest...
20/06/2019 - Interviews
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China Interview with the Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini after his solo ascent of the virgin East Face of Lamo She (6070m) in China. The 1500m new climb is called Wild Blood and was graded WI5, M5, V°, 90°
19/06/2019 - Interviews
Gran Paradiso new summit ascent and descent route. Interview with Alex Chabod Interview with Alex Chabod, vice president of the Gran Paradiso Mountain Guides, after the decision to recommend an ascent route and a different descent route on Gran Paradiso in order to avoid queues forming on the final meters to the...
17/06/2019 - Alpinism
Mountaineering exploration in Pakistan for Matteo della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani, David Hall A group of Italian mountaineers comprised of Matteo della Bordella, Maurizio Giordani, Massimo Faletti and David Hall are about to embark on a one-month expedition to explore unchartered mountains in Pakistan.
14/06/2019 - Alpinism
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award In September 2019 the Polish mountaineer Krzysztof Wielicki will receive the Piolets d'Or Carrière 2019. In the past this prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington, Wojciech Kurtyka,...
11/06/2019 - Alpinism
Chamlang UFO Line: Márek Holeček reports of alpine style first ascent in Nepal Czech mountaineer Márek Holeček reports about his alpine style ascent, carried out with climbing partner Zdeněk Hák of the virgin NW Face of Chamlang (7321 m) in the Nepalese Himalaya. The new climb has been called UFO Line and is...
07/06/2019 - Alpinism
Five first ascents in Alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson Despite challenging conditions Simon Richardson and Mark Robson have made the first ascent of five hitherto unclimbed peaks in the Stikine Range in South-East Alaska, including Peak 7180, one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the region. Richardson reports.
06/06/2019 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Presanella NE Ridge skied by Roberto and Luca Dallavalle On 2 June 2019 Roberto and Luca Dallavalle skied the NE Ridge of Presanella, marking an incredible end to a special season on a classic alpine outing in the Adamello - Presanella group.
05/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denis Trento and his exceptional spring ski mountaineering in Valle d'Aosta Anomalous spring conditions across the Alps were exploited to the max by Denis Trento who managed to ski almost every day up in the Valle d’Aosta mountains. While “seeking the best conditions rather than famous descents”, Trento’s mountaineering always starts...
04/06/2019 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini completes solo ascent of Lamo She in China Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini has successfully made a solo ascent of the hitherto unclimbed East Face of Lamo She, a 6070m peak in China.
03/06/2019 - Alpinism
Bischofsmütze North Face, new mixed climb established by Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer, Hans Zlöbl Mountaineering in East Tyrol: Austrian alpinists Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer and Hans Zlöbl have made the first ascent of Kitchen Window, a 'severe mixed climb' up the North Face of Bischofsmütze in Austria.
01/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Cassin Ridge climbed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, West Rib by Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have climbed the Cassin Ridge on Denali (McKinley) in Alaska; five days earlier the two Valle d'Aosta mountain guides had climbed to the summit vie the West Rib. Expedition members Stefano Stradelli and...
31/05/2019 - Alpinism
Nadia Tiraboschi rebolts her Via dei Cugini up Pizzo Arera Nadia Tiraboschi reports about the the re-bolting of Via dei Cugini on the NW Face of Pizzo Arera (Bergamo Alps), established on 07/14/1990 by Nadia with her brother Enzo and her cousin Ivan Tiraboschi.
30/05/2019 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti Saro Costa reports about the first ski descent of the ENE Face of Piz Morteratsch (3752m) in the Bernina range in Switzerland, climbed and skied via the Zippert / Kohler route on 23/05/2019 together with Davide Terraneo and Mattia Varchetti.
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