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Bernd Zangerl Chironico bouldering fest
07/04/2009 - Climbing
Bernd Zangerl Chironico bouldering fest
On 17 March Bernd Zangerl carried out the first repeat of "From Dirt Grows The Flowers", the Fb8c problem first climbed by Dave Graham in 2005 at Chironico, Switzerland.
Petrohrad bouldering in the Czech Republic
06/04/2009 - Climbing
Petrohrad bouldering in the Czech Republic
Petrohrad is the best bouldering area in the Czech Republic, situated 50km northwest of Plzen and 80 km west of Prague. Much like Fontainebleau, the area is divided up into many sub-areas in a mysterious forest and offers thousands of problems and an enormous potential for the future.
Cittadini della Galassia 1st ski descent for Lafranconi, Pina and Marazzi
Cittadini della Galassia 1st ski descent for Lafranconi, Pina and Marazzi
On 23 March Fabrizio Pina, Alessandro Lafranconi and Alberto Marazzi skied the route "Cittadini della galassia" (V/4) on the NW Face of Monte Legnone. In doing so they made the first ski descent of this long gully high above Collico, Italy.
Switzerland cleans its mountains
03/04/2009 - Alpinism
Switzerland cleans its mountains
An advertising campaign concerning Switzerland's efforts to clean its mountains, promoted by the Swiss Tourist Board.
Winds of change for climbing on Czech sandstone
02/04/2009 - Climbing
Winds of change for climbing on Czech sandstone
The Czech Mountaineering Union has passed a bill, still to be accepted by the Ministry of Environment, approving the use of chalk on Czech sandstone.
Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig
31/03/2009 - Alpinism
Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig
On 13 and 14 March Luca Vuerich and Massimo Laurencig carried out the first winter ascent of the difficult Fessura Lomasti (400m, VI, pass. di VIII-) on the pre-summit of Cima Grande della Scala (Val Riofreddo, Julian Alps, Italy).
Morteratsch East, Bernina first ascent by Maspes, Panizza and Turk
28/03/2009 - Alpinism
Morteratsch East, Bernina first ascent by Maspes, Panizza and Turk
On 21 March Luca Maspes, Emanuel Panizza and Christian Turk carried out the first ascent of the ESE Face of Morteratsch (3751m) in the Bernina mountain range.
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Interview with Paolo Rabbia who from 29/12/2008 to 28/02/2009 carried out the first ski mountaineering traverse of the Alps in winter without the help of mechanical transport.
Adam Ondra climbing at Angelone and Cornalba
25/03/2009 - Climbing
Adam Ondra climbing at Angelone and Cornalba
On 20 March 16 year old Adam Ondra made the first ascents of Riti Tribali 8c+ and Nonono 8c at Angelone, while on 21 March at Cornalba he repeated Les Sindacalistes 8c+ second go before onsighting Outsider (8a+). Adam Ondra's full report and thoughts about his Italian holiday.
Conturines south gully: first ski descent of Tremolada and Oberbacher
Conturines south gully: first ski descent of Tremolada and Oberbacher
On 19 March Andrea Oberbacher and Francesco Tremolada carried out the first ski descent of the long and much-eyed Conturines south gully. On 15 March Tremolada had also carried the probable first repeat of the south gully on Piz Ciavazes, first skied by Tone Valeruz.
Melloblocco 2009 - you know the score
19/03/2009 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2009 - you know the score
The sixth edition of the Melloblocco will take place in Val di Mello (Val Masino, Sondrio, Italy). This annual international bouldering meeting attracts thousands of boulderers and climbers from all over the world.
La prima volta, new icefall at Fusine Laghi, Tarvisio
17/03/2009 - Alpinism
La prima volta, new icefall at Fusine Laghi, Tarvisio
On 31/01/2009 Roberto Misson and Luca Chiarcos carried out the first ascent of "La prima volta" (60m, II 3+ M5+) at Fusine Laghi (Tarvisio).
Nives Meroi and Romano Benet head to Kangchenjunga
16/03/2009 - Alpinism
Nives Meroi and Romano Benet head to Kangchenjunga
On Sunday 15/03 Nives Meroi and Romano Benet departed from Italy to attempt Kangchenjunga, their 12th 8000m peak. Located on the border between Nepal and India, this 8586m mountain is the third highest in the world.
Scotland winter climbing update
13/03/2009 - Alpinism
Scotland winter climbing update
Andy Turner and Tony Stone have carried out the first winter ascent of Sassenach on Ben Nevis and Ueli Steck has repeated The Secret. Ian Parnell and Andy Turner then carry out the first ascent of Bruised Violet (VIII,7,8,8,8,7) on Beinn Eighe.
Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
12/03/2009 - Events
Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
The 6 nominees for the 17th Piolet d'Or, scheduled for 25 April 2009: Dave Turner (USA) for his solo ascent on the East Face of Cerro Escudo (Torres del Paine, Chile), Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck (Switzerland) for their new route up the N Face of Tengkampoche (Nepal), Stéphane Benoist...
Oman Jebel Misht new routes for Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
12/03/2009 - Climbing
Oman Jebel Misht new routes for Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have carried out the first ascent of "Fata Morgana" (F7c, 800m) up the S Face of Jebel Misht, Oman.