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Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles
27/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles
Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska established from 13 - 23 May...
Jesse Dufton and his extraordinary ascent of The Old Man of Hoy in Scotland
12/06/2019 - Interviews
Jesse Dufton and his extraordinary ascent of The Old Man of Hoy in Scotland
Interview with blind British paraclimber Jesse Dufton who the famous trad climbing route The Old Man of Hoy off the Orkney Islands in Scotland. Guided by his climbing partner Molly Thompson, the achievement has been recognised by the Scottish parliament.
Chamlang UFO Line: Márek Holeček reports of alpine style first ascent in Nepal
11/06/2019 - Alpinism
Chamlang UFO Line: Márek Holeček reports of alpine style first ascent in Nepal
Czech mountaineer Márek Holeček reports about his alpine style ascent, carried out with climbing partner Zdeněk Hák of the virgin NW Face of Chamlang (7321 m) in the Nepalese Himalaya. The new climb has been called UFO Line and is...
Five first ascents in Alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson
07/06/2019 - Alpinism
Five first ascents in Alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson
Despite challenging conditions Simon Richardson and Mark Robson have made the first ascent of five hitherto unclimbed peaks in the Stikine Range in South-East Alaska, including Peak 7180, one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the region. Richardson reports.
Blind paraclimber Jesse Dufton climbs The Old Man of Hoy
05/06/2019 - Climbing
Blind paraclimber Jesse Dufton climbs The Old Man of Hoy
Blind British paraclimber Jesse Dufton, guided by his climbing partner Molly Thompson, has repeated world famous trad climb The Old Man of Hoy off the Orkney Islands in Scotland. First ascended by in 1966 by Chris Bonington, Tom Patey and...
Steve McClure masters GreatNess Wall, huge E10 trad route at Nesscliffe
29/05/2019 - Climbing
Steve McClure masters GreatNess Wall, huge E10 trad route at Nesscliffe
Britain’s Steve McClure has made the first ascent of GreatNess Wall, the long-standing trad climbing project at Nesscliffe, England. Graded E10 7a, this checks in as one of the most difficult trad climbs in Great Britain.
David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen
27/05/2019 - Interviews
David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen
Interview with German mountaineer David Göttler after his attempt to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen. The 40-year-old climbed the Normal Route on the Nepalese side of the mountain and aborted his attempt at an altitude of 8650 meters, a mere...
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
21/05/2019 - Climbing
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her efforts to rebolt parts of Mingus, the 300m multi-pitch climb in the Verdon Gorge, France, first freed onsight by Lynn Hill in 1994 with difficulties up to 8a.
James McHaffie takes trad climbing whipper at Nesscliffe
18/05/2019 - Climbing
James McHaffie takes trad climbing whipper at Nesscliffe
Video of British trad climber James McHaffie taking a long fall off an old trad climbing project at Nesscliffe, England.
Punta dell'Orco: Beber, Lanzafame and Maganzini ski Canale dell'Orco
Punta dell'Orco: Beber, Lanzafame and Maganzini ski Canale dell'Orco
Marco Maganzini reports about what is likely to be the first ski descent of 'Canale dell'Orco', carried out on 22/03/2019 with Alessandro Beber and Claudio Lanzafame on Punta dell'Orco (3069m) above Val Genova in Adamello massif of the Italian Alps.
Charlie Woodburn’s gritstone masterpiece Harder, Faster at Black Rocks
11/05/2019 - Climbing
Charlie Woodburn’s gritstone masterpiece Harder, Faster at Black Rocks
In November 2000 Charlie Woodburn made the first ascent of Harder, Faster at Black Rocks in England. Almost 20 years later, this remains one of the most dangerous and least repeated trad climbs in Great Britain.
Another Brenta Dolomites big line skied by Roberto and Luca Dallavalle
Another Brenta Dolomites big line skied by Roberto and Luca Dallavalle
During what seems to resemble a never-ending winter, on 01/05/2019 Luca Dallavalle and Roberto Dallavalle completed what is believed to be the first ski descent of the NE Face of Crozzon di Val d'Agola in the Brenta Dolomites.
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
30/04/2019 - Interviews
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
Interview with Dmitry Golovchenko after the 18-day alpine style first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Jannu in the Nepalese Himalaya with Sergey Nilov. The two Russian mountaineers have called their climb Unfinished Sympathy (ED,...
Cima di Bon NE Face skied by Luca and Roberto Dallavalle
Cima di Bon NE Face skied by Luca and Roberto Dallavalle
On 20/04/2019 Luca Dallavalle and his brother Roberto Dallavalle skied the Northeast Face of Cima di Bon in the Adamello - Presanella group. This is likely to be the first ski descent.
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
26/04/2019 - Alpinism
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
Vinicius Todero reports about a 40-day climbing trip to southern Greenland with fellow Brazilian climber Marcos Costa in August 2018, during which the two repeated the famous Moby Dick on Ulamertorsuaq and, on the west face of the same mountain,...
Hopes dwindle for Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley
19/04/2019 - Alpinism
Hopes dwindle for Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley
The authorities at Parks Canada have issued a statement in which three mountaineers, presumed to be David Lama, Jess Roskelley and Hansjörg Auer, have died in an avalanche on Howse Peak in Canada.

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