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New ice climbs in Austria's Floitental by Leichtfried, Purner & Co
08/02/2011 - Alpinism
New ice climbs in Austria's Floitental by Leichtfried, Purner & Co
Two new icefalls in the Floitental (Zillertal), Austria: Excalibur (WI6/R, 120m, Albert Leichtfried & Paul Mair 30/01/2011) and Quasimodo (M7 WI7, 90m, Benedikt Purner & Klaus Pietersteiner 03/02/2011).
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
07/02/2011 - Alpinism
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
During a week winter climbing in Scotland, Ines Papert and Charly Fritzer have established Triple X, VIII,8 on Ben Nevis and Bavarinthia IX, 9 at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms.
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
07/02/2011 - Alpinism
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
During a week winter climbing in Scotland, Ines Papert and Charly Fritzer have established Triple X, VIII,8 on Ben Nevis and Bavarinthia IX, 9 at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms.
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
01/01/2011 - Climbing
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
On 28 December 2010 the American climber Cody Roth carried out the first repeat of Malvasia at Dvigrad in Croatia, the route bolted in 1987 and freed in 1988 by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla which no one had managed to repeat....
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
21/12/2010 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
Gabriele Moroni talks about Il frutto del diavolo 8c+/9a, his new route bolted and freed at Bus de Vela close to Arco, Italy.
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
17/12/2010 - Alpinism
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
Another new route on Sass dla Crusc (Dolomites) by Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara who established Quo Vadis on the massive mountain face, the symbol of the Val Badia.
Carletto Alverà, good bye to another flag bearer of the Scoiattoli di Cortina
24/11/2010 - Alpinism
Carletto Alverà, good bye to another flag bearer of the Scoiattoli di Cortina
Yesterday morning Carletto Alverà Lete passed away at the age of 92. The Italian was the flag bearer of the Gruppo Scoiattoli di Cortina, a mountain guide and ski instructor. He takes with him another piece of the history of...
The Nose, new record on El Capitan by Leary and Potter
08/11/2010 - Climbing
The Nose, new record on El Capitan by Leary and Potter
Sean Leary and Dean Potter have set a new Speed record on The Nose, El Capitan, climbing the route in 2:36:45
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
07/11/2010 - Alpinism
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
The famous section climbed by Reinhold Messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola...
Menhir on Sass dla Crusc, new route by Tondini and Irsara
02/11/2010 - Alpinism
Menhir on Sass dla Crusc, new route by Tondini and Irsara
On 03/09/2010 Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara carried out the first free ascent of Menhir (200m, IX- (7b+), R3, III; EX). The two had established the route between 10 - 26 July 2010 up the Pilastro di Mezzo on the...
New rock climbs on Aiguille de l'Eveque, Mont Blanc
24/08/2010 - Alpinism
New rock climbs on Aiguille de l'Eveque, Mont Blanc
Two new routes on SSW shoulder of Aiguille de l'Eveque, Le manteau de l'Eveque (240m, 7a max, 6b+ oblig) and Les Pèlerins et la Dame (200m, 6c/A0, 6a+ oblig) first ascended in july and August 2010 by Elio Bonfanti and...
Pan Aroma on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Iker Pou
12/08/2010 - Climbing
Pan Aroma on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Iker Pou
On 14/08/2010 Iker Pou repeated "Pan Aroma" 8c on the North Face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
Aiguille de la Brenva, Mares, first repeat after 8 years
11/08/2010 - Alpinism
Aiguille de la Brenva, Mares, first repeat after 8 years
On 16 July the Mountain Guides Marco Farina, Matteo Giglio and Giovanna Mongilardi repeated Mares, 8 years after the first ascent up the East Face on Aiguille de la Brenva, Mont Blanc range.
Pressknödl, new route on the Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Christoph Hainz and Kurt Astner
10/08/2010 - Alpinism
Pressknödl, new route on the Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Christoph Hainz and Kurt Astner
In July the South Tyroleans Kurt Astner and Christoph Hainz freed their Pressknödl (400m, 7c) on the Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande di Lavaredo by Krajnc and Grmovsek
05/08/2010 - Climbing
Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande di Lavaredo by Krajnc and Grmovsek
In July Slovenian climbers Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out the first free ascent of the route Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Hansjörg Auer repeats Pan Aroma
02/07/2010 - Climbing
Hansjörg Auer repeats Pan Aroma
On 30/06/2010 the Austrian climber Hansjörg Auer carried out the first repeat of Pan Aroma 8c, Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites