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Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece
14/09/2016 - Climbing
Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece
Action Directe was established by Wolfgang Güllich on 14 September 1991 at Waldkopf in Germany's Frankenjura. The route set new new standards in sport climbing and now, precisely twenty-five years after the first ascent, Planetmountain.com takes a step back in...
La vita è amara, Supramonte di Oliena climb in Sardinia
01/09/2016 - Climbing
La vita è amara, Supramonte di Oliena climb in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia talks about the first ascent of 'La vita è amara', a climb multi-pitch climb he first ascended with Giovanni Manconi at Supramonte di Oliena, Sardinia.
Sasha Di Giulian, Felipe Camargo free big wall at Pedra Riscada, Brazil
29/08/2016 - Climbing
Sasha Di Giulian, Felipe Camargo free big wall at Pedra Riscada, Brazil
American rock climber Sasha Di Giulian and Felipe Camargo from Brazil have made the first free ascent of 'Planeta dos Macacos' (8a+, 650m) up one of the main peaks in the Pedra Riscada massif in Brazil. The big wall climb...
Ötztal, new rock climb up Kristallwand by Hansjörg Auer and Alexander Blümel
23/08/2016 - Alpinism
Ötztal, new rock climb up Kristallwand by Hansjörg Auer and Alexander Blümel
Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel have established 'The loss of the Demantoid', a new multi-pitch rock climb up the Kristallwand face on Kirchkogel (3280m) in Austria. The route was established in memory of their friend Gerhard Fiegl.
Edu Marin repeats Wogü in Switzerland’s Rätikon massif
23/08/2016 - Climbing
Edu Marin repeats Wogü in Switzerland’s Rätikon massif
Spanish sports climber Edu Marin has carried out the first repeat of Wogü, the 8c multi-pitch sports climb established by Beat Kammerlander and freed by Adam Ondra in the Rätikon massif, Switzerland.
Mont Blanc, Ueli Steck raids the Innominata Ridge
22/08/2016 - Alpinism
Mont Blanc, Ueli Steck raids the Innominata Ridge
On 16/08/2016 Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck raced up the Innominata Ridge (1000m, D+, V+, 60º) to the summit of Mont Blanc. Not to set a speed record, but to enjoy 'a great day out in the mountains.'
The need to hammer in some pegs, to get lost in order to find yourself. By Giovanni Zaccaria
21/08/2016 - Alpinism
The need to hammer in some pegs, to get lost in order to find yourself. By Giovanni Zaccaria
Giovanni Zaccaria recalls the climb, carried out in December 2015 together with his partner Alice Lazzaro, of 'Per aspera ad astra'; not necessarily a new route, but certainly an adventure up the North Face of Campanile S. Marco (Marmarole, Dolomites)...
Baffin big wall climbing: the final concert
19/08/2016 - Alpinism
Baffin big wall climbing: the final concert
The final report by Nicolas Favresse about the recent two-month climbing trip to Baffin Island, together with Sean Villanueva, Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo De Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera that resulted in a series of new, long and difficult trad routes.
Stefano Carnati climbs 9a at Céüse and Entraygues in France
17/08/2016 - Climbing
Stefano Carnati climbs 9a at Céüse and Entraygues in France
During a few short trips to France, Italy’s Stefano Carnati repeated Condè de Choc 9a at Entraygues in the Briançon region and Le Cadre Nouvelle 9a at Ceuse.
Ueli Steck at Courmayeur's Passione Verticale 2016
17/08/2016 - Events
Ueli Steck at Courmayeur's Passione Verticale 2016
On Wednesday 17 August Switzerland’s Ueli Steck, one of the most talented mountaineers in the world, will take to the stage at Passione Verticale, the classic summer festival the town of Courmayeur dedicates every year to alpinism and the mountains....
Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis
09/08/2016 - Alpinism
Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis
The short film, shot by Dave MacLeod, of Michael Tweedley running the famous Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis.
Sir Chris Bonington at Courmayeur's Passione Verticale 2016
07/08/2016 - Events
Sir Chris Bonington at Courmayeur's Passione Verticale 2016
On Sunday, August 7 the legendary British mountaineer Sir Chris Bonington will take to the stage at Passione Verticale, the classic summer festival the town of Courmayeur dedicates every year to alpinism and the mountains. The evening begins at 21:15...
Diamond Ridge, new route up Grandes Jorasses SSE Face. Interview with Simon Richardson
03/08/2016 - Alpinism
Diamond Ridge, new route up Grandes Jorasses SSE Face. Interview with Simon Richardson
Interview with Simon Richardson who, together with Michael Rinn, made the first ascent of Diamond Ridge (1600m, 5c, AO) from 28 - 30 July 2016. This new alpine climb breaches the SSE Face of Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc massif).
Bastava un Piumino, new rock climb in the Brenta Dolomites
01/08/2016 - Alpinism
Bastava un Piumino, new rock climb in the Brenta Dolomites
In the Brenta Dolomites Andrea Simonini and Gianluca Beliamoli have made the first ascent of 'Bastava un Piumino' (180m, 6c), a new multi-pitch climb on a tower they have named Pilastro Canino, next to Cima d'Agola in Val d'Ambiez. Simonini...
Cima Busazza, Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climb new Dolomites route
27/07/2016 - Alpinism
Cima Busazza, Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climb new Dolomites route
On 17 and 18 July 2016 Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climbed a new route up the immense SW Face of Cima Busazza (Civetta group, Dolomites). The 800m climb breaches difficulties up to VII/VII+, includes a short section of A2...
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
21/07/2016 - Alpinism
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
The bodies of Italian alpinists Roberto Iannilli and Luca D’Andrea were retrieved today from the North Face of Mt. Camicia (Gran Sasso massif), Italy. Iannilli, from Ladispoli, was 62 years old, while D’Andrea came from Sulmona and was 51 years...

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