Edu Marin repeats Wogü in Switzerland’s Rätikon massif

Spain’s Edu Marin has repeated Wogü on the 7th Kirchlispitze in Switzerland’s Rätikon massif. Hailed as one of the most difficult sport climbs not only in the Alps, this 250m line to the right of Die Unendliche Geschichte was originally bolted by Beat Kammerlander and freed in 2008 by Adam Ondra who, a mere 15 years old at the time, teamed up with Italy’s Pietro Dal Prà.

The route boasts a blistering 7C boulder problem start that gives the first pitch its overall 8c grade. Although the technical difficulties ease off ever so slightly, the route packs and punch with the ensuing six pitches weighing in at 8a, 8b+, 8b+, 8b+, 8a+, 7c+. In short, a typical Rätikon technical masterpiece, named in honor of the late Wolfgang Güllich.

Dodging poor weather conditions Marin managed to work the route and after several weeks he succeeded in unlocking all the single pitches. He then set about freeing the line in a single-push, and succeeded on his third attempt. Tactics proved crucial on this south facing climb as the Barcelona born climber explained that an ascent between 9:00 am and 17:00 pm was simply out of the question due to heat on the bullet-proof limestone.

Marin stated "The key strategy was to start climbing Wogü at 17:00 when the sun went down from the wall and make a quick and effective climbing. I only had two falls during the climb. We started climbing at 17:00 and at 21:30 I reached the top, climbing the last pitch with my headlamp, sending Wogü in four hours and a half."

Edu Marin, who at the end of December 2015 repeated the 9a+/b Chilam Balam at Villanueva del Rosario in Spain, pulled off the first repeat of Wogü on 19 August, just six days after his 31st birthday, together with his father Francisco Marin. In 2012, aged 60 Francisco climbed his first 8b+ (Geminis at Rodellar in Spain) and since then he has partnered his son on the Alps Project mission. This has resulted in ascents such as Pan Aroma 8c up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo (Dolomites) in 2014, the Voie Petit (8b) of Grand Capucin in the Mont Blanc massif, Orbayu 8c, 450m (Picu Uriellu) and Sansara 8b+ up Grubhorn, Austria earlier this summer.