65 News found

Maurizio Oviglia recently rebolted one of Sardinia's iconic top-end sport climbs, Le lion de Panshir in the Millennium Cave at Cala Gonone and exchanged a few words with the first ascensionist, French ace Yann Guesquiers.

The report by Courmayeur mountain guide Gianluca Marra who, with his colleague Niccolò Bruni, has established Goulotte Desperados, a new mixed climb on that climbs the Col Occidental de la Tour Ronde in the Mont Blanc massif.

On 01/12/2021 Courmayeur mountain guides Massimo Datrino and Gianluca Marra climbed Cascata del Monzino in Val Veny in the Mont Blanc massif. This drip has probably never been climbed before.

After the magnificent limestone crags at Finale Ligure, the second stage of the Petzl Legend Tour Italy stops off at Sperlonga, the hotspot for sport climbing development in Central Italy during the 1980’s.

Italian climber and new router Maurizio Oviglia once again focuses on the safety of climbing bolts and anchors on sport climbs in seaside environments and has launched a campaign to raise funds in order to re-bolt some marine crags in Sardinia with titanium bolts.

On the famous Aguglia di Goloritzè tower above Cala Goloritzè in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia has rebolted Sole Incantatore, the most repeated multi-pitch rock climb on the island. Oviglia himself established the route in 1995.

Caterina Bassi reports about the first ascent of El despertador fotonico, a new multi-pitch rock climb established up the south face of the Escudo del Qualido in Val di Mello, Italy, with Martino Quintavalla.

German rock climber Robert Jasper has returned from his solo expedition to Greenland after having made the first ascent of Stonecircle (7c, 450m) up Molar Spire above the Angmassalik-Tasilaq Fjord.

Second episode dedicated to Espace Grivel, or to the first 200 years of the history of Grivel and alpinism.

Maurizio Oviglia reports about an expedition of the Italian Alpine Club and the JTB (Jordan Tourism Board) which resulted in series of new climbs in the unexplored area of ​​Wadi Sulam in Jordan. Expedition members included Maurizio Giordani, Manrico Dell'Agnola, Andrea Cattarossi, Marco Scagnetto, Luca Schiera, Umberto Del Vecchio, Erik...

A climbing video by Sara Oviglia and the information about Piazzetta Sottovento, a new sector at the splendid crag Cala Usai at Villasimìus in Southern Sardinia.

In June 2017 Marco Gianola, Simone Manzi and Andrea Mariani made the first ascent of 'Gran Diedro della Marocca’ (320m, 6b) up the East Face of Monte Qualido above Val di Mello, Italy.

Swiss climbers Louis Piguet, who has shown a particular interested in the problem about replacing rusty anchors and corroded AISI 304 stainless steel bolts, continues his titanic work of re-equipping the marine crags along Sardinia’s coastline.

Over the past two months Corrado Pibiri and climbing partners have revamped some historical multi-pitch rock climbs at Punta Pilocca, one of Sardinia’s most beautiful crags. As always, some new routes were created by Pibiri, Fabrizio Lampis, Fabio Erriu and Maurizio Oviglia, who now provides the most recent updates.

Maurizio Oviglia discusses the new document produced by the UIAA (the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) which outlines management strategies for individual climbers, bolters and manufacturers for anchor safety and bolting of sport climbs at seaside crags.

Maurizio Oviglia, Italian Mountaineering Club Instructor, discusses a few basic rules that should be observed before lowering off a “French belay", consisting of two bolts and no abseil chain.