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Farewell to Gioachino Gobbi, grand Grivel president
20/11/2024 - Alpinism
Farewell to Gioachino Gobbi, grand Grivel president
Gioachino Gobbi, the Italian alpinist and great entrepreneur who in the 1980s relaunched the prestigious Grivel mountain equipment brand, has died aged 79.
Gola di Mikado, the beautiful new sport climbing crag near Capo Pecora in Sardinia
28/10/2024 - Climbing
Gola di Mikado, the beautiful new sport climbing crag near Capo Pecora in Sardinia
The development of Gola di Mikado, a beautiful new sport climbing crag near Capo Pecora in Sardinia, has been completed thanks to a crowdfunding campaign. All the details directly from Maurizio Oviglia, who bolted the routes together with Antonio Iaria and Tatjana Goex
Michelle Dvorak and Fay Manners rescued on Chaukhamba III
08/10/2024 - Alpinism
Michelle Dvorak and Fay Manners rescued on Chaukhamba III
On Sunday 6 October 2024 Michelle Dvorak from the USA and Fay Manners from Great Britain were rescued on Chaukhamba III in northern India. The pair were attempting a new route on the mountain's SE buttress.
Successful Scottish-Slovak climbing expedition adds multiple new routes to Torsukattak Fjord in Greenland
01/10/2024 - Climbing
Successful Scottish-Slovak climbing expedition adds multiple new routes to Torsukattak Fjord in Greenland
A Scottish-Slovak team comprised of Callum Johnson, Tim Miller, Simon Smith and Miška Izakovičová recently returned from a highly successful climbing expedition to the Torsukattak Fjord in southern Greenland where they established multiple new climbs, including 'Mussels for Tea, Packrafts in the Sea' (E6 6b (7b), 1350m) and 'Texture like...
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces
16/09/2024 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces "big list" of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the 'big list' of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2023. The honoured ascents will receive the Piolets d'Or 2024 award during the celebration at San Martino di Castrozza (Italy) from 8 - 11 December 2024.
First ascent of Muchu Chhish in Karakoram by Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
25/07/2024 - Alpinism
First ascent of Muchu Chhish in Karakoram by Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
Climbing alpine style from 1-6 July 2024, Czech mountaineers Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák completed the first ascent of Muchu Chhish (7,453m) in the Karakoram, Pakistan. Hák reports about the climb up the peak famed for having been the highest unclimbed mountain in the world.
Tuva Stavø makes first female ascent of Arctandria on Blåmann in Norway
24/07/2024 - Climbing
Tuva Stavø makes first female ascent of Arctandria on Blåmann in Norway
On 14 July 2024 Norwegian climber Tuva Stavø made the first female ascent of 'Arctandria' on Store Blåmann in Norway.
Puro Floro added to Nevado Copa in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/07/2024 - Alpinism
Puro Floro added to Nevado Copa in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have made the first ascent of 'Puro Floro' on the SE Face of Nevado Copa (6190) in Peru.
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/06/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have completed the first ascent of 'Pisco Sour' on the SW Face of Nevado Pisco (5780m) in Peru. The 640m mixed route breaches difficulties up to 85°/M6 and was climbed in a 20-hour push on 12 June 2024.
Genís Zapater Bargués, Alastair Mcdowell complete Aoraki Traverse in New Zealand in 26 hours
24/04/2024 - Alpinism
Genís Zapater Bargués, Alastair Mcdowell complete Aoraki Traverse in New Zealand in 26 hours
In November 2023 mountain guides Genís Zapater Bargués and Alastair Mcdowell completed the Aoraki - Mt Cook Traverse in New Zealand in just over a day. Also referred to as the Grand Traverse and involving 55km, 4,500m+ elevation gain across rock, snow, and ice, this has been described as 'the...
James Pearson repeats Bernd Zangerl's huge highball 29Dots in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
23/04/2024 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Bernd Zangerl's huge highball 29Dots in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
British climber James Pearson has made the third ascent of Bernd Zangerl’s 8A+ highball boulder problem '29 Dots' in Val Noasca, Valle dell'Orco, Italy.
Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completes solo Torres del Paine skyline traverse
02/04/2024 - Interviews
Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completes solo Torres del Paine skyline traverse
Interview with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll after the first traverse of the four main peaks of the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia, Chile. The Belgian alpinist climbed Torre Sur, Torre Central, Torre Norte and La Peineta solo from 23 - 26 February 2024 and called the enchainment 'Travesía Doble M'.
Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
29/03/2024 - Alpinism
Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
Austrian alpinist Barbara Vigl reports about a repeat of the 'Gervasutti-Gagliardone' on the East Face of the Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc massif, carried out in July 2023 by Vigl with Anna Truntschnig and Anna Zechling. Apart from possibly being the first all-female ascent of this route, the repeat underscores the...
Martin Feistl finds his Daily Dose of Luck on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, Austria
12/03/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl finds his Daily Dose of Luck on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, Austria
Without a rope, alone, into the unknown. Martin Feistl reports about the solo first ascent of the mixed climb 'Daily Dose of Luck' (400m, WI 5, M4) established on 24 January 2024 on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, a small side valley of the Stubaital in Austria.
Huge Langkofel Dolomites first ascent by Martin Feistl, Simon Gietl
27/02/2024 - Alpinism
Huge Langkofel Dolomites first ascent by Martin Feistl, Simon Gietl
On 2 and 3 February Martin Feistl and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of Aura (M6 AI5, 1200m) a new mixed climb on the northeast face of Langkofel / Sassolungo above Val Gardena in the Dolomites.
Fay Manners and Tom Lafaille ski big new line on Aiguille d’Argentiere
Fay Manners and Tom Lafaille ski big new line on Aiguille d’Argentiere
On 17 February Fay Manners and Tom Lafaille made the first ski descent of the Arête Charlet Straton on Aiguille d’Argentiere in the Mont Blanc Massif. Manners reports about the 5.4 line they have called 'Stratonspherique'.

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