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Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020
24/08/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020
Austrian alpinist Heinz Mariacher is the recipient of the Paul Preuss Award 2020. Mariacher is the eighth mountaineer to receive the prestigious prize after Reinhold Messner, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
05/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
Italian alpinist Federica Mingolla reports about her repeat with Leonardo Gheza of Manitua, the difficult route first ascended solo by Slavko Svetičič in 1991 on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview
31/07/2020 - Interviews
Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview
Interview with British rock climber Ben Moon, one of the world’s greatest rock climbers throughout the 1980’s and early 1990’s with landmark first ascents such one of Britain’s first 8a, Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn in Wales and...
Piz Ciavazes Dolomites mixed climbed repeated by Hofer, Oberlechner
09/04/2020 - Alpinism
Piz Ciavazes Dolomites mixed climbed repeated by Hofer, Oberlechner
Hannes Hofer reports about the repeat carried out on 11 January 2020 with Mark Oberlechner of Tiroler Wasser, Acqua Tirolese, a mixed climb up Piz Ciavazes (Sella, Dolomites) established in 2013 by Kurt Astner and Rudolf Hauser.
Aiguille du Plan Mystery solved by Ondrej Húserka and Evka Milovská
30/03/2020 - Alpinism
Aiguille du Plan Mystery solved by Ondrej Húserka and Evka Milovská
From 21 to 22 February Slovak mountaineers Ondrej Húserka and Evka Milovská made the first ascent of Mystery (85 °, M8, C1, 600m (15 pitches) on Aiguille du Plan in the Mont Blanc massif. Húserka reports.
Big new rock climb up Langkofel in Dolomites
16/08/2019 - Alpinism
Big new rock climb up Langkofel in Dolomites
On the north face of Langkofel / Sassolungo in the Dolomites, Aaron Moroder, Titus Prinoth and Matteo Vinatzer have made the first ascent of Parole Sante, a new1050m route with difficulties up to VIII A1.
Siebe Vanhee, David Leduc sweep up new climb in the Dolomites
28/07/2019 - Alpinism
Siebe Vanhee, David Leduc sweep up new climb in the Dolomites
Belgian climbers Siebe Vanhee and David Leduc have made the first ascent of Spazzacamino up the Terza Pala di San Lucano (Pale di San Lucano, Dolomites). The new multi-pitch climb was established ground-up, all free and with one bivouac on...
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
30/04/2019 - Interviews
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
Interview with Dmitry Golovchenko after the 18-day alpine style first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Jannu in the Nepalese Himalaya with Sergey Nilov. The two Russian mountaineers have called their climb Unfinished Sympathy (ED,...
Divine Providence on Mont Blanc climbed in winter by Xavier Cailhol, Symon Welfringer
18/03/2019 - Alpinism
Divine Providence on Mont Blanc climbed in winter by Xavier Cailhol, Symon Welfringer
From 17- 19 February 2019 young French alpinists Xavier Cailhol and Symon Welfringer made a winter ascent of Divine Providence up Grand Pilier d’Angle, one of the most famous routes in the Mont Blanc massif.
Patagonia El Faro climbed by Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan
07/11/2018 - Alpinism
Patagonia El Faro climbed by Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan
In Patagonia close to Cerro San Lorenzo alpinists Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan have made the first ascent of a previously unclimbed tower. Called El Faro, it was climbed alpine style via their new route La Milagrosa (1200m,...
Cima Scotoni: Simon Gietl completes big new Dolomites climb
24/10/2018 - Alpinism
Cima Scotoni: Simon Gietl completes big new Dolomites climb
The South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl has made the first ascent, rope solo, of Can you hear me? up Cima Scotoni in the Italian Dolomites). The new climb has been dedicated to Gerhard Fiegl.
Dolomites rock climbing: new outing above Val Gardena in Geisler group
25/09/2018 - Alpinism
Dolomites rock climbing: new outing above Val Gardena in Geisler group
This summer the South Tyrolean alpinists Aaron Moroder and Matteo Vinatzer completed Nuvole Bianche, a rock climb on Sas dla Porta to the east of Sas Rigais in the Geisler group, Dolomites.
Grivel 200: alpinism, climbing gear, techniques and evolutioN
02/08/2018 - Alpinism
Grivel 200: alpinism, climbing gear, techniques and evolutioN
Second episode dedicated to Espace Grivel, or to the first 200 years of the history of Grivel and alpinism.
Lynn Hill / 25 years ago the first free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan
08/06/2018 - Climbing
Lynn Hill / 25 years ago the first free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan
After the new The Nose speed record set on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold on 06/06/2018, here’s a throwback to our 2002 interview with Lynn Hill that explores her historic first free ascent in 1993 and her...
Dolomites La Strada on Cima Grande di Lavaredo repeated by Simon Gietl, Thomas Huber, Rainer Treppte
06/05/2018 - Alpinism
Dolomites La Strada on Cima Grande di Lavaredo repeated by Simon Gietl, Thomas Huber, Rainer Treppte
Simon Gietl, Thomas Huber and Rainer Treppte have made what is likely to be the first repeat of La Strada, the route up Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Dolomites first ascended by Polish climbers Piotr Edelman and Jan Fijalkowski on 6...
Sonia Livanos, goodbye to a great alpinist and woman
18/04/2018 - Alpinism
Sonia Livanos, goodbye to a great alpinist and woman
French alpinist Sonia Livanos passed away on 15 April 2018 in Marseilles hospital at the age of 95. In the '50s and' 60s together with her husband Georges Livanos she formed one of the strongest climbing partnerships in the Dolomites...