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Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer
30/09/2020 - Alpinism
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer
Martin Sieberer reports about his repeats with Hannes Hohenwarter of Locker vom Hocker on Schüsselkar, Tschechenplatte in the Karwendel and Pumprisse in the Wilder Kaiser. Three classic limestone trad climbs in Tyrol, Austria, climbed one day after the next, and reached by train and bike.
Ang Rita Sherpa, Nepal's legendary Everest mountaineer, passes away
23/09/2020 - Alpinism
Ang Rita Sherpa, Nepal's legendary Everest mountaineer, passes away
Ang Rita Sherpa, the legendary Nepalese mountaineer nicknamed Snow Leopard and famous for having climbed Everest 10 times without the use of supplementary oxygen between 1983 and 1996, passed away yesterday at 72.
Punta Dufour, new cross placed on highest mountain in Monte Rosa massif
19/09/2020 - Alpinism
Punta Dufour, new cross placed on highest mountain in Monte Rosa massif
The video of the new cross on Punta Dufour, at 4634 meters in altitude the highest mountain in the Monte Rosa massif.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Space Vertigo freed by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Nicola Tondini
18/09/2020 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Space Vertigo freed by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Nicola Tondini
The three mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini and Nicola Tondini have freed each individual pitch of Space Vertigo, the multi-pitch rock climb they completed last year on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Matterhorn Italian Route: Échelle Jordan temporarily inaccessible
17/09/2020 - Alpinism
Matterhorn Italian Route: Échelle Jordan temporarily inaccessible
The Italian Matterhorn Guides inform that due to rockfall the Échelle Jordan ladder is currently inaccessible. The guides have equipped a new line to the left of the ladder in order to reach the summit.
Giacomo Meliffi makes free solo ascent of Legoland, legendary crack climb in Valle dell’Orco
17/09/2020 - Climbing
Giacomo Meliffi makes free solo ascent of Legoland, legendary crack climb in Valle dell’Orco
Italian climber Giacomo Meliffi has made a free solo ascent of Legoland, the famous crack climb in Valle dell’Orco, Italy.
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
09/09/2020 - Climbing
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
Maurizio Oviglia introduces a selection of entry-level crack climbs in Valle dell’Orco: Viper, Mamba, Incastromania, Fessura del Tramonto, Fessura Kosterlitz and many others. A step-by-step guide to the trad climbing gems in Valle dell’Orco.
Czech Direct on Punta Ferrario in Val Masino freed by Paolo Marazzi, Giacomo Regallo
09/09/2020 - Alpinism
Czech Direct on Punta Ferrario in Val Masino freed by Paolo Marazzi, Giacomo Regallo
Paolo Marazzi and Giacomo Regallo made the first free ascent of Diretta dei Cecoslovacchi, the Czech Direct, on Punta Ferrario (3258m) in Val Torrone - Val Masino, Italy.
Alta infedeltà climbed Sasso delle Undici Marmolada, Dolomites
28/08/2020 - Alpinism
Alta infedeltà climbed Sasso delle Undici Marmolada, Dolomites
Alta infedeltà, High infidelity, is a multi-pitch rock climb established on 22 June 2020 on Sasso delle Undici in Marmolada, Dolomites by the mountain guides Thomas Gianola and Fabrizio Della Rossa. The seven pitch outing breaches difficulties up to VI-.
Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020
24/08/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020
Austrian alpinist Heinz Mariacher is the recipient of the Paul Preuss Award 2020. Mariacher is the eighth mountaineer to receive the prestigious prize after Reinhold Messner, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto
21/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto
Federica Mingolla and Leo Gheza have made the first repeat of Il Giovane Guerriero, Young Warrior, the route established only recently up the east face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo Pasquetto and Luca Moroni. The route was dedicated to Matteo Pasquetto...
New rock climb on Rienzwand in Rienztal, Dolomites
13/08/2020 - Alpinism
New rock climb on Rienzwand in Rienztal, Dolomites
On the east pillar of Rienzwand in Rienztal (Höhlensteintal, Dolomites) Peter Manhartsberger and Martin Wibmer have established Osttiroler Marende, a new alpine sports climb graded 7b.
Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs
12/08/2020 - Alpinism
Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs
Four remarkable ascents will be awarded the Piolets d'Or 2020 at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland from 11 - 22 September: Chamlang by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák, Tengi Ragi Tau by Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva, Link Sar by Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman...
Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher make first repeats of Beat Kammerlander’s Rätikon Kampfzone
09/08/2020 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher make first repeats of Beat Kammerlander’s Rätikon Kampfzone
On 06/08/2020 Barbara Zangerl made the first repeat of Kampfzone, an 8b+ multi-pitch in the Rätikon first ascended by Beat Kammerlander ground-up in 2013 and freed in 2017. Jacopo Larcher followed suit yesterday.
Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses
08/08/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses
Yesterday afternoon Matteo Pasquetto, the talented Italian alpinist and aspirant mountain guide, lost his life while descending from the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher establish Lifestyle on Torre del Lago, Dolomites
03/08/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher establish Lifestyle on Torre del Lago, Dolomites
The two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of Lifestyle, a new multi-pitch rock climb up the west face of Torre del Lago (Fanis Group - Lagazuoi group) in the Dolomites.

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