432 News found
02/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1 Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves as a reminder and as a source on inspiration for...
17/12/2012 - Alpinism
Greenland, new rock climb La chute de rein In summer 2012 a group of young Swiss climbers established La chute de rein (600m, 6c, A1 pendulum) on peak Whale Top (1303m) in Southern Greenland.
26/11/2012 - Alpinism
Matterhorn, Via Casarotto - Grassi on Pic Tyndall climbed by Farina, Cazzanelli and Ferraris On 17-18/11/2012 Marco Farina, François Cazzanelli and Roby Ferraris made a fast and great repeat of the route first ascended by Renato Casarotto and Gian Carlo Grassi in 1983 up the South Face of the Matterhorn which exits onto Pic Tyndall (ED / 1300mt ). This is likely to be...
26/11/2012 - Alpinism
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori In July and August 2012 Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori returned to Turkey's Aladaglar massif where they established and freed "Nessuno" (470m, 8a+ max, 7b obligatory) up the North Face of Cima Vay Vay and "Radio Eksen" (200m, 7c max, 7a+ obligatory) in the Cimbar Valley.
14/11/2012 - Climbing
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the new stainless steel bolts placed (obviously) in exactly the same...
08/11/2012 - Alpinism
First ascent of Kemailong in China's Shaluli Shan In China's Shaluli Shan mountain range Dave Anderson and Szu-ting Yi have made the first ascent of Kemailong (5870m).
08/11/2012 - Alpinism
International Master’s Course in Mountain Medicine, the final report by Doctor Luigi Festi The 1st International Master Course in Mountain Medicine will be completed with the final thesis and diploma at the Insubria University. This project, unique and innovative, came to life as a real challenge and involved 14 doctors from all of Italy, combining technical ability with hands on experience and mountain...
11/10/2012 - Interviews
Andreas Fransson and his extreme skiing in Patagonia Interview with Sweden's Andreas Fransson who on 19/09/2012 made the first ski descent of the Whillans ramp on Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia.
09/10/2012 - Climbing
L’orologio senza tempo, Punta Figari and Giova Massari's 50th birthday Last August Giovannino Massari and Paolo Seimandi re-equipped L'orologio senza tempo, the historic rock climb established in 1982 by Massari and Andrea Parodi up the East Face of Punta Figari (Gruppo Castello - Provenzale). The report by Paolo Seimandi.
20/09/2012 - Alpinism
Kilian Jornet Burgada, Innominata Ridge and Mont Blanc in 6 hours 17 minutes On 18 September Spanish ski mountaineer and sky runner Kilian Jornet Burgada ascended from Courmayeur to the summit of Mont Blanc via the famous Innominata Ridge (1000m, D+, V+, 60º) in 6 hours and 17 minutes. The Spaniard then raced down to Chamonix in a total time of 8 hours...
27/08/2012 - Alpinism
New free climbs on Baffin Island In June and July 2012 a strong team of international climbers comprised of Hansjörg Auer, Riky Felderer, Ben Lepesant, Matteo Mocellin, William Peterson, Eneko Pou and Iker Pou forged 4 new free climbs on Baffin Island’s East Coast, including The Door 8b.
22/08/2012 - Alpinism
150th anniversary of Picco Glorioso - Monte Disgrazia The commemoration of the first attempt to climb to the summit of Monte Disgrazia, which started a series of events aimed at celebrate the 150th anniversary of the first ascent to the summit of this great mountain located between Valmalenco and Valmasino. Michele Comi has the story.
16/08/2012 - Climbing
Baffin Island, Mount Asgard success for Papert, Walsh and Lavigne Ines Papert, Jon Walsh and Joshua Lavigne have established Sensory Overload (1200m, 5.11+, A1) up Mount Asgard, Baffin Island.
03/07/2012 - Climbing
The lucky ice climber on Kennedy’s Gully Video of a lucky ice climber, saved in extremis on Kennedy’s Gully, an ice climb at the Ouray Ice Park, Colorado (USA).
08/06/2012 - Alpinism
Alex Honnold: super solo on the Yosemite Triple Alex Honnold has doubled his takings: after the fast ascent of the trio Mount Watkins, El Capitan and Half Dome with Tommy Caldwell, between 5 and 6 June the 26-year-old US climber carried out an incredible and fast solo ascent of the Yosemite Triple once again.
29/05/2012 - Climbing
Hansjörg Auer onsights Strawberries at Tremadog In May Hansjörg Auer from Austria on-sighted the famous route Strawberries first ascended by Ron Fawcett in 1980 at Tremadog in Wales. In more than 30 years this trad climb has only been on-sighted by Stefan Glowacz and Jorg Verhoeven.
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