150th anniversary of Picco Glorioso - Monte Disgrazia

PICCO GLORIOSO - THE 150TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE FIRST ASCENT
Commemoration of the first attempt to reach the summit of Monte Disgrazia

It 's midnight and together with Norbert Parolini and Andrea Salvetti, two promising young local climbers, we set off up the deserted cobbled street in the heart of the village Chiesa. Right past the building which in 1862 was Hotel Olivo and from where, on that August 20 night, the first English explorers set off on their climb.

The long ascent up the Mallero valley towards Chiareggio makes itself felt, especially since were no longer used to carrying such heavy loads all the way from the valley floor. The sound and refreshing breath of the stream accompanies us throughout the night. At times we walk along what remains of the Cavallera Muretto path. Chiareggio, in the silence of the night, retains its alpine village charm despite the invasion of cars parked everywhere.

Along the Sissone valley, a favourite destination for mineral seekers, we stumble up thousands of different coloured stones: serpentine, granite, marble, amphibolite. We ascend past what remains of the glacier, put to the test by this summer’s abnormal temperatures, and reach the Mello pass at eight o'clock. Here the group exploited the glacier and ascended far higher to join the ridge just below the summit of Mount Pioda at 3431m.

We continue along the rugged northern ridge with some pleasant scrambling and up to grade V climbing. Once at the top of Pioda, the highest point reached during the historic first attempt, the temptation to continue on up to the summit of Monte Disgrazia is simply too strong.

We leave our rucksacks and gear at the col, there where the granite gives way to the red serpentine rocks, and continue up, past the countless cairns scratched raw by crampons. There is no longer any sign of snow or ice, and at 12.30 we reach the top.

Technical info:
altitude gain: circa 2900m
length: 30km

Michele Comi
Valmalenco Mountain Guide