286 News found
27/08/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Karakorum's Sckem Braq by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo Italian mountaineers Chiara Gusmeroli and Matteo De Zaiacomo have etablished a new route on Sckem Braq, Karakorum, Pakistan. 900 meters high, the route was opened alpine style and consists of 26 pitches with difficulties up to 7a and A3.
17/07/2024 - Alpinism
New climb added to Piz Badile by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo On 29 June 2024 the Italian mountaineers Chiara Gusmeroli and Matteo De Zaiacomo made the first ascent of 'Æterna nix' (VIII, 200m) on the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.
05/07/2024 - Climbing
Ferro, the cool summer crag in Val del Ferro (Val di Mello, Italy) Ferro is an atypical crag, a long way from the valley floor, immersed in unique alpine environment, where climbing is only a small part of the equation. Simone Pedeferri introduces the crag Ferro crag in Val del Ferro (Val di...
01/07/2024 - Alpinism
The fifth lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974 From the MOdiSCA archive an iconic photo taken by the Italian Ragni di lecco expedition documenting the first ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia in 1974: the fifth lecco Spider on the mountain's summit, with Casimiro...
22/05/2024 - Alpinism
Patagonia's Sarmiento West summit climbed alpine style by Hernán Rodríguez, Cristobal Señoret, Nicolas Secul A three-man Chilean expedition comprised of Hernán Rodríguez, Cristobal Señoret and Nicolas Secul Ojeda has successfully climbed Monte Sarmiento West summit in Patagonia. Climbed alpine style, this is only the 4th ascent of the remote peak and the first repeat...
26/12/2023 - Alpinism
Cerro Nora Oeste in Patagonia first ascent by Paolo Marazzi, Luca Schiera On 24/11/2023 Italian mountaineers Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera completed the first ascent of the unclimbed Cerro Nora Oeste above the Campo de Hielo Norte glacier in Patagonia, Chile. The expedition included Giovanni Ongaro and Andrea Carretta. Marazzi and Schiera...
16/01/2023 - Alpinism
New route on Aguja Mermoz in Patagonia by Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza, Sean Villanueva On 10/01/2023 Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza and Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completed the first ascent of '¿Qué mirás, bobo?' (7b, 500m) on the east face of Aguja Mermoz (2732m) in the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia. After a bivouac on...
02/08/2022 - Alpinism
New climb on Siula Grande in Peru by Matteo Della Bordella, Marco Majori From 20 to 24 July 2022 Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and Marco Majori established Valore Alpino, a new route on Siula Grande (6344m) in Peru.
29/07/2022 - Alpinism
New climb on Jirishanca in Peru by Alik Berg, Quentin Roberts Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts have established a new route on Nevado Jirishanca (6094m) in Peru. The complex line is called Reino Hongo and graded 5.8/90°/M7.
23/06/2022 - Alpinism
Siula Grande in Peru the new objective for Matteo Della Bordella and Italian High Mountain Military Corps Elite Italian High Mountain Military Corps alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni, Marco Majori, Filip Babicz and Stefano Cordaro have set off on an expedition to Peru where they will attempt a new route up the east face of Siula...
21/01/2022 - Alpinism
Patagonia: Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci climb Aguja Rafael Juarez Italian mountaineers Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci have climbed Aguja Rafael Juarez in Patagonia via the classic route Corallo. This is their first summit this season and comes before attempting the east face of Cerro Torre with Matteo De...
17/01/2022 - Alpinism
Paolo Marazzi, Luca Schiera in Patagonia in search of the mountain without a name The Italian Ragni di lecco alpinists Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera have set off on expedition to Patagonia, more precisely to the Hielo Norte glacier, where they will attempt a mountain they noted in 2020 that is currently uncharted.
22/11/2021 - Climbing
Josune Bereziartu, Lynn Hill, Luisa Iovane: three women who have left their mark in the history of rock climbing Three women, and three climbs, which helped change the course of rock climbing: Luisa Iovane on Comeback in Val San Nicolò in 1986, Lynn Hill on The Nose in 1993 and Josune Bereziartu on Bain de Sang in 2002. Our...
29/10/2021 - Climbing
Matteo Della Bordella, David Bacci free The Pirate in Valle dell’Orco, Italy On the Casetti wall in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci have made the first ascent of Il Pirata (8a max, 160m), a new multipitch dedicated to legendary Italian cyclist Marco Pantani.
08/10/2021 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention The 2021 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be awarded in November at Briançon, France, to Pierrick Fine and Symon Welfringer for their ascent of Sani Pakkush and Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn for their ascent of Mount Robson. Catalan...
28/06/2021 - Interviews
Chantel Astorga interview after Cassin Ridge solo on Denali in Alaska Interview with top American alpinist Chantel Astorga after the first female solo ascent of the Cassin Ridge on Denali in Alaska.
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