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Babanov and Afanasiev climb new route on Gasherbrum I
05/08/2008 - Alpinism
Babanov and Afanasiev climb new route on Gasherbrum I
On 01 August 2008 Valery Babanov and Viktor Afanasiev climbed a new route up the SW Face of Gasherbrum I (8068m). The ascent comes in the wake of the Russian climbers new route on Broad Peak (8047m), carried out on...
Take the long way home new route on Baffin Island, Canada
27/06/2008 - Alpinism
Take the long way home new route on Baffin Island, Canada
A German expedition including Robert Japser and Stefan Glowacz has carried out the first ascent of "Take the long way home" (700m, 21 pitches, A4 10-) on Baffin Island, Canada.
Nicolas Favresse - trad climbing in Wales and England
13/06/2008 - Climbing
Nicolas Favresse - trad climbing in Wales and England
Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva have just spent three weeks climbing in Wales, repeating a series of routes on Gogarth, Dinas Cromlech and Cloggy including John Redhead's masterpiece "Authentic desire" E7 6b.
Bruno Detassis
09/05/2008 - Alpinism
Bruno Detassis
On 8 May 2008 Bruno Detassis died at his home in Madonna di Campiglio. Aged 97, he was one of the all time greats of mountaineering.
56th Trento Filmfestival, the mountain Film Festival and its WebTv
21/04/2008 - Events
56th Trento Filmfestival, the mountain Film Festival and its WebTv
From 22 April to 04 May 2008 the 56th International Film Festival di Trento of Mountains, Exploration and Adventure will take place in Northern Italy. The programme is richer than ever before, with films, events and conferences which will be...
Reinhold Messner and the mountaineering world stand up for Tibet
17/04/2008 - Alpinism
Reinhold Messner and the mountaineering world stand up for Tibet
Reinhold Messner and the main French mountaineering organisations defend Tibet.
Gerard Pailheiret, ice climbing interview
25/01/2008 - Interviews
Gerard Pailheiret, ice climbing interview
Interview by Elio Bonfanti with the French mountain guide Gerard Pailheiret who has always carried out been a tireless promoter of ice climbing.
Cerro Torre: Patagonian Democracy
14/09/2007 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre: Patagonian Democracy
On 14/02/2007 circa 40 mountaineers held an assembly at El Chaltén in Argentina’s "Los Glaciares" National Park to debate about the future if the expansion bolts on the 1970 Maestri “Compressor route” up Cerro Torre. Report and thoughts by Vicente...
Svalbard Atomfjella new routes in Spitzbergen climbing expedition
22/08/2007 - Alpinism
Svalbard Atomfjella new routes in Spitzbergen climbing expedition
In April 2007 a mixed Slovenian – Swiss - German team headed to the Atomfjella mountains in Spitzbergen, Norway where they made numerous mixed first ascents.
Alexander Huber frees Pan Aroma 8c on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
08/08/2007 - Climbing
Alexander Huber frees Pan Aroma 8c on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
On 26/07/2007 Alexander Huber made the first ascent of 'Pan Aroma' 8c through the great roof up the North Face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Gasherbrum II, Unterkircher and Bernasconi climb virgin North Face
23/07/2007 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II, Unterkircher and Bernasconi climb virgin North Face
On 20/07 the Italians Karl Unterkircher and Daniele Bernasconi reached the summit of Gasherbrum II (8035m) via the virgin North Face, climbing a beautiful route and resolving one of the most famous problems in the Himalaya.
Martina Cufar: rock climbing in Yosemite, Indian Creek and more
05/07/2007 - Climbing
Martina Cufar: rock climbing in Yosemite, Indian Creek and more
From 15 April to 15 June Martina Cufar travelled to the U.S.A. for her first taste of Indian Creek, Yosemite, Tuolome Meadows and the Needles...
Spitzbergen climbing Expedition to the Atomfjella mountains
07/06/2007 - Alpinism
Spitzbergen climbing Expedition to the Atomfjella mountains
In April a mixed Slovenian – Swiss - German headed to Spitzbergen in Norway where they made numerous mixed first ascents.
'Osa, ma non troppo', Cerro Cota 2000 (Paine, Patagonia)
21/02/2007 - Alpinism
'Osa, ma non troppo', Cerro Cota 2000 (Paine, Patagonia)
From 21 - 26 January 2007 the Italians Elio Orlandi, Michele Cagol, Fabio Leoni and Rolando Larcher made the first ascent of "Osa ma non troppo", a 700m line up the E Face of Cerro Cota 2000 (Torres del Paine,...
Piolet d'or 2006 awarded to Prezelj and Lorencic for Chomo Lhari
29/01/2007 - Alpinism
Piolet d'or 2006 awarded to Prezelj and Lorencic for Chomo Lhari
On 26 January 2007 Marko Prezelj and Boris Lorencic from Slovenia were awarded the "Golden ice axe" for their new route on Chomo Lhari. Pavle Kozjek was awarded the Spectators Choice for his new route climbed solo up Cho Oyu....
Baffin 2006, the island at the edge of the world
28/12/2006 - Alpinism
Baffin 2006, the island at the edge of the world
Polar bears, icebergs, a sailing boat, whales and a plethora of unclimbed rock and thousands of new routes to be climbed...In mid August 2006 the Italian Mountain Guides Michele Maggioni and Marco Zaninetti set off with Cristina, Giovanni and the...