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Niccolò Ceria repeats Gioia, Christian Core's masterpiece at Varazze
16/12/2020 - Climbing
Niccolò Ceria repeats Gioia, Christian Core's masterpiece at Varazze
Italian boulderer Niccolò Ceria has made the fourth ascent of Gioia at Varazze, the boulder problem established by Christian Core in 2008, graded 8C+ and hitherto repeated by only Adam Ondra and Nalle Hukkataival.
Dave MacLeod, Iain Small establish Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland
10/12/2020 - Alpinism
Dave MacLeod, Iain Small establish Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland
Scottish climbers Dave MacLeod and Iain Small have made the first ascent of the mixed climb Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland.
Bernd Zangerl explores his limits on Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco
02/12/2020 - Climbing
Bernd Zangerl explores his limits on Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco
Austrian boulderer Bernd Zangerl has made the first ascent of a difficult crack called Grenzenlos in Valle Orco, Italy. Protected with a pecker, it is a mix between a trad climb and a highball.
Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach follow their instincts on Pizzo Badile
01/12/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach follow their instincts on Pizzo Badile
Alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach have climbed Crossway of Friendship on the northeast face of Pizzo Badile. This variation is dedicated to the late Matteo Bernasconi.
Sébastien Bouin makes first repeat of Fred Rouhling’s De l’autre Côté du Ciel
28/11/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin makes first repeat of Fred Rouhling’s De l’autre Côté du Ciel
French rock climber Seb Bouin has made the first repeat of another Fred Rouhling 1990’s testpiece, De l’autre Côté du Ciel at Les Eaux Claires.
Alaska's autumn nets two big new climbs in Hayes Range
26/11/2020 - Alpinism
Alaska's autumn nets two big new climbs in Hayes Range
Benjamin Lieber reports about two big new climbs ascended in Alaska’s Hayes Range: DeWilde Style (800m AI4+) up the SE Face of Peak 9,250ft with Alex Hansen and Longing For Light (700m AI5) on the NE Shoulder of Mount Moffit...
Fred Rouhling's Akira finally repeated after 25 years by Sébastien Bouin, Lucien Martinez
23/11/2020 - Climbing
Fred Rouhling's Akira finally repeated after 25 years by Sébastien Bouin, Lucien Martinez
Akira, the famous sport climb established by Fred Rouhling in 1995, has finally been repeated for the first time by Sébastien Bouin and Lucien Martinez. According to the two young Frenchmen the route is a difficult 9a, and not 9b...
Laura Rogora repeats The Bow 9a+ at Arco, Julia Chanourdie and Eva Hammelmüller send 8c+
23/11/2020 - Climbing
Laura Rogora repeats The Bow 9a+ at Arco, Julia Chanourdie and Eva Hammelmüller send 8c+
Yesterday at Padaro in Arco, Italy, Laura Rogora claimed the first repeat of The Bow, a 9a+ established in July by Stefano Ghisolfi. Julia Chanourdie and Eva Hammelmüller for their part have both repeated 8c+.
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher free Magellan on Urlkopf in Austria
22/11/2020 - Alpinism
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher free Magellan on Urlkopf in Austria
Last August Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher made the first free ascent of Magellan, a 15-year-old project on Urlkopf close to Loferer Alm in Austria. Huber reports.
Mélissa Le Nevé Action Directe trailer
20/11/2020 - Climbing
Mélissa Le Nevé Action Directe trailer
The trailer of the film that documents Melissa Le Nevé making the first female ascent of Action Directe, the world’s most revered 9a put up by Wolfgang Güllich in the Frankenjura
Sébastien Berthe sends his first 9a+, Super-Crackinette at St. Leger
20/11/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Berthe sends his first 9a+, Super-Crackinette at St. Leger
Belgian climber Seb Berthe reports about his first 9a+ redpoint, Super-Crackinette at Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux in France. Success came about after a relentless summer on some of the hardest multi-pitch climbs across the Alps.
Josef Pfnür makes first repeat of Thomas Huber's 8b+ multipitch Stone Age
18/11/2020 - Climbing
Josef Pfnür makes first repeat of Thomas Huber's 8b+ multipitch Stone Age
German climber Josef Pfnür has made the first repeat of Stone Age, established by Thomas Huber on Untersberg in the Berchtesgaden Alps, Germany in 2019
New mixed climb on Wasserkopf in South Tyrol by Simon Gietl, Davide Prandini
16/11/2020 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Wasserkopf in South Tyrol by Simon Gietl, Davide Prandini
On 07/11/2020, just before South Tyrol declared itself in lockdown due to Covid, Simon Gietl and Davide Prandini made the first ascent of Aquädukt (IV, M5 650m), a new mixed climb up the north face of Wasserkopf (3135m) in the...
Jakob Schubert at Magic Wood frees La Force Tranquille Direct 8C
16/11/2020 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert at Magic Wood frees La Force Tranquille Direct 8C
At Magic Wood in Switzerland Jakob Schubert has made the first ascent of the 8C boulder problem La Force Tranquille Direct.
Siete Venas on Alpeltalkopf freed by Alexander Huber, Thomas Huber
10/11/2020 - Alpinism
Siete Venas on Alpeltalkopf freed by Alexander Huber, Thomas Huber
Alexander Huber reports about his summer 2020 first free ascent of Siete Venas on Alpeltalkopf (Hoher Göll, Berchtesgaden Alps), an 8b multi-pitch established with his brother Thomas Huber.
Giuliano Cameroni adds another dream line to Val Bavona
09/11/2020 - Climbing
Giuliano Cameroni adds another dream line to Val Bavona
In Valle Bavona, Switzerland, Giuliano Cameroni has made the first ascent of a spectacular prow called Baba Yaga and graded 9a.

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