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Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower, first free ascent by Huber brothers on Trango Towers
01/10/2009 - Alpinism
Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower, first free ascent by Huber brothers on Trango Towers
Between 11 and 14 August 2009 the German brothers Thomas and Alexander Huber carried out the first redpoint ascent of Eternal Flame, the legendary route up the S Buttress of Nameless Tower, Trango, Karakorum, Pakistan. The route had been established in 1989 by the Germans Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof...
Dangermouse E9 7a, Miles Gibson frees Wimberry arete
01/10/2009 - Climbing
Dangermouse E9 7a, Miles Gibson frees Wimberry arete
On 26/09/2009 British climber Miles Gibson made the first ascent of Dangermouse E9 7a at Wimberry, Peak District.
Adam Ondra nets Fugu 9a at the Schleierwasserfall, Austria
24/09/2009 - Climbing
Adam Ondra nets Fugu 9a at the Schleierwasserfall, Austria
Interview with Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic who on 20/09/2009 made the first ascent of an old Alexander Huber project, Fugu 9a at the Schleierwasserfall in Tyrol, Austria.
Stevie Haston interview
24/09/2009 - Climbing
Stevie Haston interview
Interview with British climber Steve Haston after his recent first ascent of Descente Lolitta at the Grotte de Sabart in Ariege, France.
Tuolumne Meadows - Yosemite bouldering
24/09/2009 - Climbing
Tuolumne Meadows - Yosemite bouldering
An introduction to bouldering and rock climbing at Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite National Park, California, USA by guidebook author Chris Summit.
New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
21/09/2009 - Alpinism
New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
On 10 August the Italian expedition Karakorum 2009 comprised of Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni, Michele Cagol and Elio Orlandi completed their new route The Children of Hushe (1100m, 7b A2) up the West Pillar of K7 (Charakusa Valley, Pakistan). On 14/08/2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out a fast...
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
18/09/2009 - Climbing
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland have made the first free ascent of the famous "Japanese Diretissima" on the North Face of Eiger. The route now goes free at 8a and is a very serious alpine undertaking indeed.
Stevie Haston frees Descente Lolitta 9a
18/09/2009 - Climbing
Stevie Haston frees Descente Lolitta 9a
52 year old British climber Stevie Haston has made the first ascent of Descente Lolitta 9a at the Grotte de Sabart in Ariege, France.
Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada climbs for Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer
14/09/2009 - Climbing
Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada climbs for Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer
In August Ines Papert from Germany and Lisi Steurer from Austria made the first ascent of "Power of Silence" 400m, 5.13a on the Middle Huey Spire in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada.
Orbayu 8c+/9a on Naranjo de Bulnes for Iker and Eneko Pou
09/09/2009 - Climbing
Orbayu 8c+/9a on Naranjo de Bulnes for Iker and Eneko Pou
In August 2009 the Spanish brothers Eneko and Iker Pou carried out the first ascent of Orbayu 8c+/9a, 510m Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain which they describe as their most important route ever.
Baffin Island climbing, The Belgarian and more for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
08/09/2009 - Climbing
Baffin Island climbing, The Belgarian and more for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Stéphane Hanssens and Olivier Favresse have recently returned from an expedition to Baffin Island where they carried out the first ascents of 3 different routes and attempted to free climb the Bavarian Direct on the South Face of Mt. Asgard.
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
03/09/2009 - Climbing
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
On 24/08/2009 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla made the first ascent of "Eternit", the extension to "O ce l’hai… o ne hai bisogno" at Baule. The grade put forward is 9a but above all Manolo believes this route has taken his vertical slab climbing into a completely new dimension.
Asgard Baffin Island expedition success for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
02/09/2009 - Alpinism
Asgard Baffin Island expedition success for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Stéphane Hanssens and Olivier Favresse have recently returned from an expedition to Baffin Island where they carried out the first ascents of 3 different routes and attempted to free climb the Bavarian route on the South Face of Mt. Asgard.
New routes in the Dolomites
01/09/2009 - Climbing
New routes in the Dolomites
On the Sella Towers Manuel Stuflesser and Norbert Weiss have carried out the first ascent of Batajan (7+, 325m), while Massimo da Pozzo added Via Zoe (300m, 7b max, 7a oblig) on the Lastoni di Formin, Dolomites.
Greenland climbing – new routes by Eliza Kubarska and David Kaszlikowski
31/08/2009 - Climbing
Greenland climbing – new routes by Eliza Kubarska and David Kaszlikowski
In August Eliza Kubarska and David Kaszlikowski from Poland climbed a virgin peak and established two big new routes in remote area of Torsukattak fjord in southern Greenland.
Steve McClure climbs Hubble, Pete Robins Liquid Ambar
28/08/2009 - Climbing
Steve McClure climbs Hubble, Pete Robins Liquid Ambar
Two of Britain's most emblematic sport routes, Hubble 8c+ at Raven Tor and Liquid Ambar 8c at Lower Pen Trwyn, have recently been repeated by Steve McClure and Pete Robins respectively. The two climbs in question were established in 1990 by none other than Ben Moon and Jerry Moffatt and...