Ice climbing and dry tooling in the Val di Fassa, Dolomites
Tommaso Cardelli introduces a series of classic and new ice climbs in the Valle di Fassa, right in the heart of the Italian Dolomites.
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Andrea climbing Carpe Diem - Tupac Amaru
arch. T. Cardelli
When you hear the words "Val di Fassa" during the winter season, the first thing that certainly springs to mind is an unforgettable valley in the heart of the Dolomites, with some of the most famous pistes and off-piste itineraries in the whole world! It is highly likely though that few people associate the valley with its splendid ice climbs and dry tooling pitches... Well, they couldn't be more wrong!
Apart from the classic and superbly famous icefalls ideal for all abilities (Fontanazzo Sx-Dx, Rio Pelous, Cassiopeo...), a series of new, fun and interesting climbs have been established in recent years, thanks above all to the excellent winter conditions. Some of these new routes climb ice all the way through and do not come into condition regularly, while other routes climb sections of ice followed by modern mixed, combining dry tooling with classic water ice.
Published below is a series of climbs first ascended recently and which have not been published before in guidebooks. The photos represent the current mid-February cold conditions and it goes without saying that each icefall must be judged carefully on the basis of the temperature, avalanche danger, ice quality etc.
I would like to add that finding the information regarding the first ascents is a difficult task and some routes may contain some incorrect first ascent information. have fun climbing!
Tommaso Cardelli, Aspirant Mountain Guide
Thanks to: SCARPA, Northland Shop, Peak Performance for the gear.
Apart from the classic and superbly famous icefalls ideal for all abilities (Fontanazzo Sx-Dx, Rio Pelous, Cassiopeo...), a series of new, fun and interesting climbs have been established in recent years, thanks above all to the excellent winter conditions. Some of these new routes climb ice all the way through and do not come into condition regularly, while other routes climb sections of ice followed by modern mixed, combining dry tooling with classic water ice.
Published below is a series of climbs first ascended recently and which have not been published before in guidebooks. The photos represent the current mid-February cold conditions and it goes without saying that each icefall must be judged carefully on the basis of the temperature, avalanche danger, ice quality etc.
I would like to add that finding the information regarding the first ascents is a difficult task and some routes may contain some incorrect first ascent information. have fun climbing!
Tommaso Cardelli, Aspirant Mountain Guide
Thanks to: SCARPA, Northland Shop, Peak Performance for the gear.
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