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Gabriele Moroni, Lumignano and a step back into climbing history
16/01/2009 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni, Lumignano and a step back into climbing history
Last weekend Gabriele Moroni visited the historic Lumignano Classica in N. Italy and returned home with a climbing sweep-stake: flash ascents of Boomerang 8a+ and Atomic Café 8a, and a fantastic 2nd go ascent of Mare Allucinante 8b+.
Bogdan Rokosz climbs testpiece in Mamutowa Cave, Poland
13/01/2009 - Climbing
Bogdan Rokosz climbs testpiece in Mamutowa Cave, Poland
Bogdan Rokosz establishes 'Sprawa Honoru' 9a at the Mamutowa Cave in Poland.
Ryan Pasquill frees major new route at Ilkley, England
12/01/2009 - Climbing
Ryan Pasquill frees major new route at Ilkley, England
Ryan Pasquill has made the first ascent of the impressive gritstone line to the left of The New Statesman at Ilkley, England. The route has been called Gerty Berwick.
Ueli Steck speed solo climb on Grandes Jorasses Colton Macintyre
07/01/2009 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck speed solo climb on Grandes Jorasses Colton Macintyre
On 28 December 2008 Ueli Steck from Switzerland climbed the classic Colton - Macintyre route up the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses in in a mere 2 hours and 21 minutes, setting a new record for the wall and climbing all three great North Faces of the Alps in...
Bullock and Brodie establish new route at Mont Saxonnex, France.
01/01/2009 - Alpinism
Bullock and Brodie establish new route at Mont Saxonnex, France.
In mid December the British climbers Nick Bullock and Neil Brodie established 'Who needs sex, we get hotaches' WI6 100m at Mont Saxonnex, France.
Riegler brothers and Pandora: multi-pitch first ascent in Arco
31/12/2008 - Climbing
Riegler brothers and Pandora: multi-pitch first ascent in Arco
In September 2008 Martin and Florian Riegler made the first ascent of "Pandora" (8 pitches, max 8b) on the Mandrea wall at Arco, Italy. In October the two South Tyroleans redpointed all pitches individually, but the route still awaits its first free ascent.
Rock climbing at Fonzaso, Italy
29/12/2008 - Climbing
Rock climbing at Fonzaso, Italy
Fonzaso, the beautiful small crag at the foot of the Dolomites, with 40 routes up to 8c+ ideal for winter climbing
Drytooling, past and present by Albert Leichtfried
24/12/2008 - Climbing
Drytooling, past and present by Albert Leichtfried
Albert Leichtfried, one of the best ice climbers of his generation, examines the state of drytooling in Austria and reports about his new route 'Encore' M13 at the Dryland above Innsbruck
Boom of ascents on the West Face of Cerro Torre, Ermanno Salvaterra's point of view
18/12/2008 - Alpinism
Boom of ascents on the West Face of Cerro Torre, Ermanno Salvaterra's point of view
Ermanno Salvaterra discusses the state of Patagonian mountaineering, starting with the large number of ascents on the West Face of Cerro Torre to talk about other class routes on the Torre and her sisters.
On sight by Alastair Lee
16/12/2008 - Book-press
On sight by Alastair Lee
Review of Alastair Lee's award winning film On sight.
Ice climbing in Valeille valley, Valle d'Aosta, Italy
09/12/2008 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Valeille valley, Valle d'Aosta, Italy
A selection of icefalls in the Valeille valley, Gran Paradiso National Park, Valle d'Aosta, Italy.
Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and the Makalu winter project
01/12/2008 - Alpinism
Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and the Makalu winter project
At the end of December Simone Moro from Italy and Denis Urubko from Kazakhistan will attempt the first winter ascent of Makalu 8463m (Himalaya, Nepal), the fifth highest mountain in the world.
Kang Nachugo first ascent for Joe Puryear & David Gottlieb
25/11/2008 - Alpinism
Kang Nachugo first ascent for Joe Puryear & David Gottlieb
Joe Puryear and David Gottlieb have completed the first ascent of Kang Nachugo (6735 meters) in the Rolwaling Himalaya. Climbing for 5 days in alpine style, the two summited their 1800m route on October 17 after having overcome 90-degree snow and ice.
Kevin Jorgeson, The Groove, Alex Honnold and England's gritstone
24/11/2008 - Climbing
Kevin Jorgeson, The Groove, Alex Honnold and England's gritstone
Kevin Jorgeson carries out the second ascent of The Groove, Cratcliffe Tor, England, while continuing his gritstone raid together with fellow American Alex Honnold.
Adam Ondra, Open Air and Hotel Supramonte
20/11/2008 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, Open Air and Hotel Supramonte
Interview with Adam Ondra after the long-awaited second ascent of Open Air at the Schleierwasserfall and the first onsight of Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia.
Lead World Cup 2008 to Johanna Ernst and Jorg Verhoeven
18/11/2008 - Competitions
Lead World Cup 2008 to Johanna Ernst and Jorg Verhoeven
The sixth and final stage of the Lead World Cup 2008 took place in Slovenia's Kranj last weekend and was won by Johanna Ernst from Austria, ahead of Maja Vidmar and Akiyo Noguchi. Klemen Becan from Slovenia won the men's event, ahead of Jorg Verhoeven and Patxi Usobiaga. Ernst and...