3007 News found
17/03/2009 - Alpinism
La prima volta, new icefall at Fusine Laghi, Tarvisio On 31/01/2009 Roberto Misson and Luca Chiarcos carried out the first ascent of "La prima volta" (60m, II 3+ M5+) at Fusine Laghi (Tarvisio).
13/03/2009 - Alpinism
Scotland winter climbing update Andy Turner and Tony Stone have carried out the first winter ascent of Sassenach on Ben Nevis and Ueli Steck has repeated The Secret. Ian Parnell and Andy Turner then carry out the first ascent of Bruised Violet (VIII,7,8,8,8,7) on Beinn Eighe.
11/03/2009 - Alpinism
The Norwegian Alpine Club and the ethics for climbing in Norway With reference to the latest ascents by Robert Jasper in Norway, the Norsk Tindeklub (Norwegian Alpine Club) has now published an official statement guidelining climbing ethics in Norway. The German climber also provides his point of view.
10/03/2009 - Alpinism
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni From 27 - 28 February 2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent of via Masada (1260m, VIII, A0) on the East Face of Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The story by Larcher and video of the ascent.
09/03/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on Repentance was first climbed in Cogne, Valle d'Aosta in 1989 by François Damilano, Fulvio Conta and Giancarlo Grassi and soon became the symbol of a new ice climbing era in the Alps. Twenty years after the first ascent Damilano and Conta joined forces once again to repeat the route. Elio...
06/03/2009 - Alpinism
Norway ice climbing first ascents by Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli travelled to Norway in February and carried out three important first ascents, including Fosslimonster M8+, WI6+, E5, 800m height difference, ca.1000m length at Aurland.
05/03/2009 - Alpinism
Cochamo Valley Chile: new climbs by Austrian dream team In December 2008 the Austrians David Lama, Barbara Bacher, Katharina Saurwein, Hansjörg Auer, Heiko Wilhelm and Dutchman Jorg Verhoeven travelled to Cochamo Valley in Chile and climbed a series of new routes in this granite valley.
04/03/2009 - Climbing
Łukasz Dudek repeats Martin Krpan 9a at Misja Pec, Slovenia Lukasz Dudek has repeated Martin Krpan 9a at Misja Pec close to the village Osp in Slovenia.
02/03/2009 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the Oscar of alpinism.
26/02/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing beyond Cogne, Valle d'Aosta, Italy Enrico Bonino introduces 4 icefalls which rarely come into condition and which have reformed during this exceptional winter in Valle d'Aosta, Italy. Located between Valsavarenche and Valtournenche, they are off the beaten track from the more famous areas around Cogne.
26/02/2009 - Climbing
Spain sport climbing: Margalef access problems and Adam Ondra & Daila Ojeda in Oliana At Oliana, Spain, Adam Ondra repeats Papichulo 9a+ and Daila Ojeda makes the first ascent of China Crisis 8b+. Margalef refuge owner Jordi Pou warns that irrespective behaviour may result in sectors being banned.
26/02/2009 - Interviews
Jerry Moffatt interview Interview with Jerry Moffatt, one of the most successful climbers in the world during the 1980's and 1990's, with important first ascents such as Stone Love 8b+ in Germany's Frankenjura and Liquid Ambar 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales and The Ace FB8B at Stanage, England.
25/02/2009 - Alpinism
Will Gadd ice climbing fest in Canada Two massive first ascents in Canada: The Jimmy Skid Rig (WI5 M12, 300m, Will Gadd, Will Meinen and Brandon Pullan) and Hunlen Falls (5.9 A2, 370m, Will Gadd & EJ Plimley).
24/02/2009 - Climbing
Spain climbing action: Chris Sharma at Margalef, Geoffray De Flaugergues at Alquezar Chris Sharma has made the first ascent of Demencia Senil 9a+ at Margalef while 13 year old Geoffray De Flaugergues from France has repeated El templo del cafe 8c+/9a at Alquezar.
23/02/2009 - Alpinism
Exceptional ice climbing conditions in Ossola, Switzerland Over the last 10 days 6 teams have repeated "Buon compleanno", the beatuiful drip in Gole di Gondo (Ossola, Switzerland) which last came into conditions 8 years ago.
13/02/2009 - Alpinism
Leben ist jetzt, Dolomites mixed route by Astner and Ciulli In January Kurt Astner and Emanuele Ciulli made the first ascent of Leben ist jetzt (200m, IV/M7+/ice 80/90°), a modern 5 pitch mixed route in Val di Tures (Riva di Tures, Dolomites).
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