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Sharphu II in Himalaya climbed by Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus
07/01/2019 - Alpinism
Sharphu II in Himalaya climbed by Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus
In October 2018 Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus made what is likely to be the first ascent of Sharphu II (6328m) in Nepal's Kangchenjunga region. The route climbs the mountain’s east face, was climbed alpine style over a six-day period and has been called Saṃsāra (ED2 AI5 M6).
Adam Ondra onsighting Just Do It at Smith Rock, the uncut video
23/12/2018 - Climbing
Adam Ondra onsighting Just Do It at Smith Rock, the uncut video
The uncut video, ie Adam Ondra’s entire onsight ascent of Just Do It 8c+ at Smith Rock, USA, carried out in November 2018.
Russisches Roulette / New Kristallwand mixed climb by Matthias Wurzer, Peter Wurzer
03/12/2018 - Alpinism
Russisches Roulette / New Kristallwand mixed climb by Matthias Wurzer, Peter Wurzer
Austrian mountain guides Matthias Wurzer and Peter Wurzer have established Russisches Roulette, Russian roulette, a difficult and dangerous mixed climb up the northeast face of Kristallwand (Venediger Group, Hohe Tauern, Austria).
Adam Ondra onsights Just Do It at Smith Rock, America’s first 8c+
12/11/2018 - Climbing
Adam Ondra onsights Just Do It at Smith Rock, America’s first 8c+
Czech climber Adam Ondra has made an onsight ascent of Just Do It, the first 5.14c (8c+) in the USA located at Smith Rock, freed by French climber Jean-Baptiste Tribout in 1992.
Patagonia El Faro climbed by Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan
07/11/2018 - Alpinism
Patagonia El Faro climbed by Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan
In Patagonia close to Cerro San Lorenzo alpinists Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan have made the first ascent of a previously unclimbed tower. Called El Faro, it was climbed alpine style via their new route La Milagrosa (1200m, A3, M7, 6a).
Big Dutch climbs in Kyrgyzstan Djangart Range
26/10/2018 - Alpinism
Big Dutch climbs in Kyrgyzstan Djangart Range
In the Djangart Range in Kyrgyzstan, last summer a Dutch mountaineering expedition comprised of Noël Diepens, Line van den Berg, Wout Martens, Rik van Odenhoven, Mats Wentholt, Jorian Bakker, Court Haegens and Boris Textor carried out a series of notable new climbs.
Pumori Southeast Face climbed via new Romanian route
25/10/2018 - Alpinism
Pumori Southeast Face climbed via new Romanian route
Romanian mountaineers Romeo Popa, Zsolt Torok and Teofil Vlad have established a new route up the Southeast Face of Pumori 7161m, Himalaya.
Ortles NE Face, possible new mixed climb by Durogati, Ladurner, Lemayr
23/10/2018 - Alpinism
Ortles NE Face, possible new mixed climb by Durogati, Ladurner, Lemayr
On the NE Face of Ortles, the highest mountain in the South Tyrol, Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr and Aaron Durogati climbed what might well be a big new mixed climb.
Piolets d’Or 2018 ceremony in Poland / Report and photos
12/10/2018 - Events
Piolets d’Or 2018 ceremony in Poland / Report and photos
Complete report and photographs of the Piolets d’Or 2018, the prestigious annual mountaineering award celebrated from 20 - 23 September at Ladek Zdrój in Poland.
Aiguille d'Argentiere: new climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
10/10/2018 - Alpinism
Aiguille d'Argentiere: new climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
Slovak mountaineers Ondrej Húserka and Ján Smoleň have established two new rock climbs on Aiguille d’Argentière in the Mont Blanc massif: Crystal route up Contreforts Charlet-Straton and In memory of Červienka up Plateau du Jardin.
Virgin Himalayan 6000er climbed by Austrian dream team
07/10/2018 - Alpinism
Virgin Himalayan 6000er climbed by Austrian dream team
Alpinists Hansjörg Auer, Max Berger, Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher from Austria have made a three-day alpine style ascent of a previously unclimbed 6050m peak in the Kinnaur district in the Indian Himalaya.
Significant rockfall on Trident du Tacul in Mont Blanc massif
26/09/2018 - Alpinism
Significant rockfall on Trident du Tacul in Mont Blanc massif
Last night significant rockfall took place on the Trident du Tacul, close to the Grand Capucin (Mont Blanc massif).
Federica Mingolla adds new climb to Aiguille Croux in Mont Blanc massif
21/09/2018 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla adds new climb to Aiguille Croux in Mont Blanc massif
The report by Federica Mingolla who, together with Gabriele Carrara, made the first ascent of L'isola che non c’è on Aiguille Croux above Val Veny in the Mont Blanc massif.
Jeff Lowe, goodbye to one of the world's most influential mountaineers
26/08/2018 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe, goodbye to one of the world's most influential mountaineers
On 24 August 2018 Jeff Lowe, one of the world’s most influential mountaineers, passed away aged 67. The American climber was widely recognised as one for the strongest alpinists of his generation.
Tom Frost, farewell to Yosemite Golden Age climbing legend
25/08/2018 - Climbing
Tom Frost, farewell to Yosemite Golden Age climbing legend
On 24 August 2018 American climber Tom Frost died aged 81. Frost was one of the pioneering climbers and photographers during the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing.
Márek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák climb new route up Kyajo Ri in Nepal
24/08/2018 - Alpinism
Márek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák climb new route up Kyajo Ri in Nepal
Climbing in alpine style from 25 to 28 May 2018, the Czech mountaineers Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák made the first ascent of Lapse of Reason, a new route up Kyajo Ri (6186 m) in Nepal.

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